Convex edge questions

troutfisher13111

troutfisher13111

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What do you guys use to field sharpen a convex edge? Can a convex edge be sharpened with a regular wet stone? I am looking at maybe purchasing a Fallkniven F1, but I am leery of the convex edge due too never having a knife with one.
 
I have a fallkniven f-1 and am scared to dull it fr the sme reason. THe fallkniven websight has a sharpening section where they reccomend using a fine grit diamond plate and sharpen it by attemptng to take thin slices from the stone, they than say it should be finished off on a whet stone.
 
I carry a couple strips of 400 and 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Regular stropping will keep it sharp in the field. Simply place it on a hard surface and you have a nice compact field sharpening kit.

Kev
 
You can field sharpen a convex edge on a flat stock, just rotate the stone on the knife. Fallkniven however v-bevels thier knives.

-Cliff
 
A v-bevel means that there is a secondary bevel put on a primary convex grind. V-bevel is the normal one you see on a regular folder/ fix blade.
 
troutfisher13111 said:
What do you guys use to field sharpen a convex edge? Can a convex edge be sharpened with a regular wet stone? I am looking at maybe purchasing a Fallkniven F1, but I am leery of the convex edge due too never having a knife with one.
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I brought some sandpaper with me to Iraq, however, I usually just used a leather belt along with some Chromium Oxide that I brough over as well in a small bottle. The only three convexed blades I've used here in Iraq are a Blackjack Grunt, Fallkniven WM-1 and a recently aquired Bark River Bravo-1. The Grunt's edge is a little roughed up (nothing bad, just plenty of chopping and cutting a little wire), so I may track down a mouse pad and use the wet/dry sandpaper sheets I brought with me.

For just a week or two in the "bush", unless your chopping rocks, cinderblocks or skulls, I would just have a small piece of belt leather and a few small squares of 320 / 400 grit (maybe something in the 800-1200 range if you want to hone it up more) of wet/dry sandpaper; that should keep a working edged on a field knife.

ROCK6
 
600 grit W/D paper, or my belt. Keeping the edge maintained during the course of your stay in the bush, like stroping just after use, will keep your edge shaving sharp.
 
A convex blade can be maintained by frequent stropping on leather or even carboard. If it actually needs to be sharpened, use a piece of 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper backed with something semi-firm like a mousepad. Use a stropping motion rather than a slicing motion.

I brought back the edge on a small Bark River this way in just a few passes.
 
Cliff Stamp: As far as i know, fallkniven doesn`t put a V-bevel on their knives. I`ve got a WM1 of theirs, and it`s completely convex, from spine to edge. But i do believe some of their older models were beveled otherwise, so maybe you`ve got an older model??

And the simplest method of sharpening i`ve found, is simply to use some 400/600 wet/dry sandpaper, lay it flat onto my leg, and pull the blade back and forth a few times. Works like a charm!
 
Could you put a convex edge on a scandi grind? Before I buy something nice with a convex edge I'd like to put one on a cheap knife I already have, like a Mora, and see how I like it.
 
Bark River makes a knife that has a combination between a Scandi and a convex grind called the Nebula. Your going to have to remove a lot of steel on something like a Mora to convex it.
 
Yoshi said:
Lomgbow50,aarya and barny have it sussed:thumbup:
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swedishdwarf and PC356, follow those instructions on sharpening a convex edge and apply them to an ordinary Mora and the narrow v-ground secondary bevel will soon convex, and eventually the rest of the blade may also, depending on how high up you want to take the sandpaper.
 
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that the biggest problem people have when sharpening or stroping, is that they apply too much pressure to the knife. Use just the weight of the knife, because too much pressure can have the opposite affect on the sharpening process.
 
For sure that's an important point. The Sharpmaker instructions even mention it -- stroke gently down each rod. Pushing too hard will damage the surface and the rods will then chip the blade rather than sharpen it.

Always use just enough pressure to have an effect -- especially using diamond stones
 
longbow50 said:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that the biggest problem people have when sharpening or stroping, is that they apply too much pressure to the knife. Use just the weight of the knife, because too much pressure can have the opposite affect on the sharpening process.
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Your exactly right use the weight of the knife when stropping/sharpening.
 
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