Convex edges: Are they really practical?

All I can add is I am definitely more anxious about sharpening my convex knives, but the difficulty is all in my mind. In actual practice the difficulty level sharpening a V or V with microbevel or Scandi or Convex grinds are identical for me, just different techniques to achieve sharpness for that grind.

The weird thing is sharpening different steels brings different levels of difficulty, but in my mind I know it shouldn't matter except for time sharpening takes.
 
I wonder what the old folks in the old days did to sharpen their knives. I'm sure they didn't make things as complicated as everyone makes sharpening on this site. Good thing knives aren't computerized. Then you'd need a scanner to put an edge on. ROFL
 
Sharpening is sharpening. Everyone does it differently, different strokes for different folks. Some like systems, some like freehand. I, personally, like freehand as that's the only way I've ever learned how to sharpen since a kid. Whether it be a V or convex edge, like 42 blades said, you just have to sharpen that apex, as that's where all the cutting begins. What you do behind that edge is on the owner of said knife. All of my fixed-blade edges have become convexed over time, after numerous sharpenings on diamonds stones, finished off with stropping.
 
I didn't even know what a convex edge was until I started poking around this site. Yeah though... it seems I've always had a convex edge on my knives since I was 7 and first learned to hand sharpen on a stone. My knives have always cut well with whatever you want to call the edge :D
 
jakemex said:
I'll be standing in line when they offer CNC knife sharpeners for the homeshop. NOT
ROFL
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I recommend waiting until the compact version hits the shelves.

It fits more readily into a B.O.B. for those "survive now" situations.

I never realized folks had such difficulty with this. I'm no master at it, but don't have this level of discomfort with it.
 
I think convex edges may be worthwhile if you are having problems with edge stability in your use. However, in my experience they do not hold a fine edge as long.
 
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All those traditional knives with "character" patina and convex edges worked fine until things got re-fined...
 
microtech85 said:
I think convex edges may be worthwhile if you are having problems with edge stability in your use. However, in my experience they do not hold a fine edge as long.
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That's not how convex edges work, I'm afraid. In short, thicker is thicker and thinner is thinner. How is dulling occurring? If by abrasion, a thinner geometry holds an edge longer. If it's by plastic deformation (rolling) then as thick as is needed to prevent that deformation (and no further) will hold an edge longer.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
That's not how convex edges work, I'm afraid. In short, thicker is thicker and thinner is thinner. How is dulling occurring? If by abrasion, a thinner geometry holds an edge longer. If it's by plastic deformation (rolling) then as thick as is needed to prevent that deformation (and no further) will hold an edge longer.
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I am not trying to tell anyone how a convex edge works. Im not a physicist, so i cannot tell why this happens. But my convex edges have always lost their edges noticeably faster than my v grind edges.
 
I have to figure that it has either to do with the manner in which you're producing those edges or the specific geometries and steel/applications of the knife in question. I can tell you that it's not a result of it being convex or not, though. :)
 
And here I thought I was modernizing buying a 9 dollar diamond coated pocket stone instead just keeping an Arkansas stone in my pack;)

I think if you are going frame this as something to think about in emergency/survival setting then you need to contemplate other things beyond convex maintenance.

Are you using a high end very hard steel that requires special equipment in order to cut the into a very worn edge? If so, will the edge last the time you are potentially lost in the wilds without requiring massive repair? Who cares if the edge needs more effort to maintain if it's difficult to deform?

The other end of the spectrum is using a purposefully softer/more basic steel that requires more frequent maintenance but is more easily repairable.

Take for example, the traditional khukuri. This is something that may make some heads spin because not only do they generally wear a convex edge but they also, obviously, have a recurved blade shape.

These knives are used day in and day out in Nepal. They see more use in a week than most survival knives will in a lifetime. Traditionally, they are kept "sharp enough" using a steel aligning tool called a chakma. According to the late-great Uncle Bill Martino, common practice after heavy use is to hit the edge with a few licks from a file. Eventuality, the owner will take the blade back for refurbishing to the Kami (blacksmith). They'll probably do this for most of their lives until the edge has been worn down past the hardened edge.

My long point is that we really put a lot of effort into making things more difficult than they need to be. Maintaining a convex edge isn't an issue beyond a skill set. I'm not saying that a convex edge is superior to any other edge. I'm just saying that there is nothing overly difficult about the maintenance once you figure out how to free hand it.

Once again, I don't think anyone is wrong here. I freehand. It's the only way I know how to sharpen a knife. I've tried a couple of sharpening systems and I don't get the results that many of you do. I know this is 100% operator error on my part.

For my outdoor needs, I can get by with a small stone and a small piece of loaded leather to strop upon.
 
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