The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
What's wrong with that if it gets the knives sharp?
) that you may need to maintain in the field a convex edge seems perfect.
I have an unanswered n00b question: Is it necessary to glue the sandpaper to the mousepad using the mousepad technique????
)
I'm with you here Thom.... I'd never really heard much about convex edges before finding this forum and acquiring my first Busse. So I asked a couple noob questions. Some were answered, others weren't.... but I kept reading and now feel "pretty" comfortable in my understanding....
Three grinds: concave, convex and V
Concave(hollow ground) - very sharp, kinda delicate, difficult to maintain
V - best overall edge (not as strong as convex, not as sharp as concave) that is easy to maintain for skilled users or folks with a sharpening "system".
Convex - toughest under hard use because it puts more metal behind the edge. If done well can be almost as sharp as a V. Convex can be a fixed amount of edge (1/8 in or whatever) or the whole blade can be convex. The latter is the sharpest for an given geometry. Convex edges can be easily "touched up" in the field by stropping.
I've read a lot of things recently that really put down V grind, saying it will ruin your Busse or is only good for "cheap" knives.... IMO - this is just silly! V grind is great. So is Convex. It seems to me this mostly depends what your knife is made of and what you are using it for... Knowing this you can choose the knife, the steel and the edge that suits what YOU do with your knife.
Some examples:
If you have a razor thin (ie - Spyderco ZDP Caly Jr) super hard blade, used primarily for slicing, a V grind makes perfect sense.
If you have a heavy duty chopper (ie - Busse FBM-LE) where the steel deforms rather than chipping out carbides, used for chopping wood (or cars or whatever
Most choices are not so clear cut. You use your knife to open the mail, prune some trees, cut some rope etc etc. One of the real strengths of a knife is it's flexibility in handling a wide variety of tasks....
Does that mean you shouldn't put a V grind on the Busse or a convex on the Spyderco??? Not at all. If that's the right combination for what you do, go for it...
To me, when folks say you 'have to have a convex edge on a Busse', what they are really saying is Busse blades are tough and they get used tough and if you keep a convex edge it is the best fit for the steel and the use it usually sees.
Now, I'm just a user and these are the results of reading and my limited trials. I welcome input from the fine folks around here as to whether I'm on the right track about this.
Ken
I'm with you here Thom.... I'd never really heard much about convex edges before finding this forum and acquiring my first Busse. So I asked a couple noob questions. Some were answered, others weren't.... but I kept reading and now feel "pretty" comfortable in my understanding....
Three grinds: concave, convex and V
Concave(hollow ground) - very sharp, kinda delicate, difficult to maintain
V - best overall edge (not as strong as convex, not as sharp as concave) that is easy to maintain for skilled users or folks with a sharpening "system".
Convex - toughest under hard use because it puts more metal behind the edge. If done well can be almost as sharp as a V. Convex can be a fixed amount of edge (1/8 in or whatever) or the whole blade can be convex. The latter is the sharpest for an given geometry. Convex edges can be easily "touched up" in the field by stropping.
I've read a lot of things recently that really put down V grind, saying it will ruin your Busse or is only good for "cheap" knives.... IMO - this is just silly! V grind is great. So is Convex. It seems to me this mostly depends what your knife is made of and what you are using it for... Knowing this you can choose the knife, the steel and the edge that suits what YOU do with your knife.
Some examples:
If you have a razor thin (ie - Spyderco ZDP Caly Jr) super hard blade, used primarily for slicing, a V grind makes perfect sense.
If you have a heavy duty chopper (ie - Busse FBM-LE) where the steel deforms rather than chipping out carbides, used for chopping wood (or cars or whatever
Most choices are not so clear cut. You use your knife to open the mail, prune some trees, cut some rope etc etc. One of the real strengths of a knife is it's flexibility in handling a wide variety of tasks....
Does that mean you shouldn't put a V grind on the Busse or a convex on the Spyderco??? Not at all. If that's the right combination for what you do, go for it...
To me, when folks say you 'have to have a convex edge on a Busse', what they are really saying is Busse blades are tough and they get used tough and if you keep a convex edge it is the best fit for the steel and the use it usually sees.
Now, I'm just a user and these are the results of reading and my limited trials. I welcome input from the fine folks around here as to whether I'm on the right track about this.
Ken
Now Amy-O needs to let us know if the big secret has a convex grind on it....
After limbing and chopping the tree to about a one foot tall stump, I dug around the roots. (It was in sandy soil) with the side of the blade. then once they were exposed I chopped through them, working around the tree in a circle. It hit a lot of sand and held up great. I wouldn't want to do this with an oak tree though. Much harder wood.:thumbup:
