Cord Wrapped Necker

tiros said:
The sheath on my second bk11 was a bit tight, but i used the trusty heatgun on it it made a huge difference. What did the sheath end up costing you with the tek-lok? and what was the approx turn around time?
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i tried the heat gun trick a few times and just couldn't seem to get right...:o

i think the sheath was $15-$20, i don't remember exactly... the turn around time was about 2 weeks.... reid(sharpshooter) is a great guy to deal with.... :thumbup:

here is a link to a pic from sharpshooter's gallery..... you can also see the thumb grooves that i added to the spine.... my sheath is the one on the left..

http://barkriverknives.com/gallery/Sharpshooter-Sheath-Systems/Becker4

mike:)
 
i tried the heat gun trick a few times and just couldn't seem to get right...

i think the sheath was $15-$20, i don't remember exactly... the turn around time was about 2 weeks.... reid(sharpshooter) is a great guy to deal with....

here is a link to a pic from sharpshooter's gallery..... you can also see the thumb grooves that i added to the spine.... my sheath is the one on the left..

http://barkriverknives.com/gallery/S...ystems/Becker4

mike
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AH HA!!! It was you that added the the thumb grooves. That is a sweet mod! I remember seeing the pics but couldn't find the post again. How do you like the Grooves? Have you had any problems with corrosion in them?

Thanks for the info BTW :thumbup:
 
tiros said:
Have you had any problems with corrosion in them?
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That's a good question, although I wouldn't worry about it too much. If it concerns you, you could cold-blue or patina it, I think only the newly exposed areas would be affected and the original finish would stay the same.
 
tiros said:
AH HA!!! It was you that added the the thumb grooves. That is a sweet mod! I remember seeing the pics but couldn't find the post again. How do you like the Grooves? Have you had any problems with corrosion in them?

Thanks for the info BTW :thumbup:
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thanks for the compliments....:thumbup:

i love thumb grooves on the spine of my knives.... since the handle is so small i feel like i have a little more control, if i place my thumb or forefinger on the spine.... i have not had any problems at all with corrosion... i did think of that in the begining, but it hasn't been a problem yet.... :D
 
Hi,

Whenever I cut some grooves like that I use a thread file. It's a square file with sections of teeth, different sizes, used to clean up boogered threads on a bolt. The file keeps the spacing perfect since it cuts 4 or 5 grooves at a time, then you overlap to go as long as you want.

My file was about $5 at an auto parts store.

Steve
 
Thats a great idea stevetexas:eek: *slowly puts down the milimeter scale and file* no no i wasn't going to do anything rash.... I always store my knife spine up in the vise like that :(
 
mtnfolk mike said:
i used a triangular file..... i think it was a #3.... it was pretty easy...:D
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thanks! I was orignially thinking of the dremel with the abrasive cutting wheel, then finishing with something else. Sounds like the triangular file will work, and that thread file sounds like another real good idea.

The idea someone posted about using a Blueing compound on the exposed metal can't hurt any, I don't think corrision is gonig to be any more a problem than it would the actual blade edge. May depend on your location, coastal/humid vs. arid.
 
acwire_2125 said:
MAybe you can post some pics of the step by step of making that wrap?
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It is very easy. See picture below.

Start with a piece of cord about 5 feet long.

1-Pull it through the front handle hole, halfway, so you have even amounts of cord at both ends.

2-Now, take one of the ends and start wrapping toward the back of the handle, keep it tight, and keep wrapping. When you get to the back hole, go through it once, then around and Back through the hole again, a second time. The second time through may take some tweezers or an icepick to push it through.

3-Make sure it's nice and tight, then tie it off with a simple knot, pushing the knot as close to the hole as possible as you pull the knot tight. leave the excess dangle from the knot for now.

4- Go back to the front hole, pick up the other end of cord, and repeat Steps 2 and 3.

*Now you should have a wrap job, with two knots tying it off at both back holes.

5- Now you can make a lanyard a loop, or however you want it at the back end.

The next wrap job I do I may order one of these mini compasses.
http://www.campingsurvival.com/suncococo.html

NeckerWrapped2.jpg
 
Great tutorial Skunker. I'm going to try that on my necker, see how it feels. The only other cord wrapped handle knife I had I bought from a guy that worked with Jody Samson back in the late 70s. He made my prototype and one other with the idea of selling the pattern to Gerber or Buck or somebody. No company was interested so that was the end of it. The sheath was made by Les Lannon, an actor from the movie "Southern Comfort".
 
Skunk I wrapped the necker today in about 15 minutes. Thanks again for the pics. I left 10" or so of cord end and tied them together with an overhand knot. I like the results.
 
jordan_masson said:
Great info. I ordered my Necker today :D

While we are on the topic...does a small tech-lock fit the necker sheath?
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Jordan, I am going to give you a 90% YES on the tech-lok.
There are 4 holes, look like they are positioned correctly.

I have some spare kydex fitting and maybe a techlok somewhere, but I can't lay my hands on it....I'm pretty sure it will fit from sitting here looking at my sheath.


2dogs, cool beans, glad it worked.
It's really difficult to show that knid of stuff on-line, like knot tying.
 
Got my Necker today, from Bladematrix. I have to say, I'm really impressed. It was packed and packaged nicely, with a thin smear of light grease along the edge and the blade protected by a cardboard sleeve. It came with enough black paracord to either hang it around your neck, or wrap the handle like Skunk did.I like that kind of attention to detail. It prevents bad product from going out the door.

The grind lines are all straight and clean. The coating is even on all surfaces. Even the tang stamp is clearly legible, despite being partly filled with coating. The edge bevel itself is not a high polish, but both bevels are straight and even. Out-of-the-box, this knife sliced newsprint, typing paper, and shaved hair off my leg and arm cleanly. Among the very sharpest factory edges it's ever been my pleasure to pay for.

The sheath is well-made and fits the knife very securely. The knife is NOT going to fall out.

OK, so it's not a Cliff Stamp review :D I'm just really happy with the knife. A damn fine knife and a great bargain. BK&T has a new fan.
 
gibson.... i knew you would like it... it is a lot of knife for the $$$... holds a great edge too and very easy to sharpen in the field....
mine lives in my camelbak h.a.w.g..... glad your factory sheath works good:thumbup: mine was horrible from the start..... :thumbup:

i actually ended up buying one for my wife too... she is also a knife junkie:D she also keeps it in her pack along with her PSK, she has her pack with her everday while she is at work...:D

mike
 
Yep, the Necker gets high marks from everyone.
Must have been just a single sheath with problems, mine was just right, tight enough to hold, but released with a normal tug.

I used my little Lanksy compact crockstick on the necker, made it even sharper than it was at time of arrival.
LCKEY.jpg


Gibson, do that wrap job and post up some pics!
Congrats! :thumbup:
 
I've wrapped mine this way and like it best out of the several methods I have tried on my Becker. I used some small cord to "wrap" a slip knot on my lanyard. Though I really like the skull.

tjg
 
I decided to wrap it like Skunk's, too. It keeps the slim profile.

I did the brass rod test on it, and it comes out a bit soft. (Bear in mind, this is the first time I did a brass rod test, lol.) But the edge did indeed fold and leave a tiny burr. I mean tiny. You could see it, and feel it in use, but it didn't stop cutting by any means. I'd rather have that, than a chip from being too hard. Straightened right out on a few strokes on my medium Arksansas; I didn't really have to "sharpen" it. So I'm thinking it's pretty close to excellent heat-treat.

I'll throw a pic up when I get some filework done on it :)
 
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