Corrosion protecting my knives

Fluid film looks like neat stuff. It's basically lanolin and a mix of petroleum distillates and some other additives to make it easier to use in its intended application than pure lanolin. Lanolin is highly polar, so it really adheres to metal better than many other products out there. I've been thinking of getting some to try mixing with weaponshield. WS's biggest drawback is that it tends to bead up instead of coating highly polished surfaces. I think that's due to a high surface tension and lack of polar components. This works out fine when lubricating parts and on blasted/blued finishes since it wicks between parts and the microscopic texture of blueing and and stays there, but on a satin or polished stainless blade it just beads up instead of forming a protective film.
 
A.P.F. said:
I have long since forgotten, but give your local auto parts supplier a call (Princess Auto) or Home Hardware. In Canada, Canadian Tire.
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Cost me about 9 bucks a can. And a can goes a looooooooooong way.

So since fluid film contains petroleum distillates, are you sure it's food safe? (I hope so, I've gotten it all over sandwiches and such)
 
Renaissance Wax was developed to preserve museum specimans ! Works very well. I use RIG which is rust inhibiting grease .Also you could wrap with VPI [vapour phase inhibitor ] paper.
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Cost me about 9 bucks a can. And a can goes a looooooooooong way.

So since fluid film contains petroleum distillates, are you sure it's food safe? (I hope so, I've gotten it all over sandwiches and such)
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I checked out the LD50 and figured out that you would have to ingest around 5 Gallons at a sitting. I think that 5 Gallons of anything would be enough to kill you. :)
 
A.P.F. said:
I checked out the LD50 and figured out that you would have to ingest around 5 Gallons at a sitting. I think that 5 Gallons of anything would be enough to kill you. :)
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Oh ok good. I didn't know they did LD50's for non pharmaceutical industrial type products. Learn something new every day!
 
Called a local petroleum distributor,out of curiosity....FLUID FILM is $4.69 / 12 oz. can here.
 
We have just experienced the wettest tropical wet season on record - the summer months here in Northern Australia are challenging for maintenace of many materials but this year set new records in ways that I would prefer not to have experienced. For the first time in my 25 years in this part of the world I had to throw away leather goods like shoes and belts that had mould so bad I thought they were a lost cause. Most of my leather knife sheaths were affected in some way but were salvageable.

For the knives themselves I am always experimenting with preservation/protection options.

I had some that had been in long term storage with a liberal all-over coating of lanolin grease then wrapped in wax paper - they were all fine but this is a messy option and not suited to knives that you wish to inspect and show as they need a good clean up first.

Renaissance wax and Tuff Cloth both failed badly for the first time. I found small rust spots on most of the carbon steel knives coated with these 2 options - possibly my fault in part as I think both of these very different solutions 'seal in' potentially corrosive elements if you don't get them as clean as possible first. In other years they had worked ok - this year they were really tested.

Car polish and household waxes have not given me good results in the past, particularly if the knives are to be handled.

Probably the best result I had this year was mineral oil. I have no grasp of the science of the subject - just relating my own experience. This was not about coating test materials and exposing them to hostile elements. This was about knives stored in my home, out of the weather and I think that is a different scenario. The mineral oil seemed more forgiving in terms of corrosion not starting in coated areas and it lends itself to a quick wipe over when you inspect the knives.

To give some sense of how bad things were this year, I found rust on an unused Buck fixed blade in 420HC that was stored in its plastic lined synthetic sheath. Brass bolsters seemed to suffer worst of all and I have never before spent so much time polishing up brass. It's over now and the dry season is just starting to kick in. The next few weekends will be spent cleaning up the jungle that has almost taken over the yard. As for knives - mineral oil and more regular inspection will be part of my maintenance routine.
 
I am not rust prevention expert, I usually stay away from non-stainless folder, I mainly use non-stainless fixed blades, but Rem-Oil has worked fine. A light coat maybe once a week if it's in my pocket, if it in my storage box than once every 6 months, haven't had any issues, but I don't live in a place with high humidity.
 
WD-40 is the only thing I've ever found that DIDN'T work. Mineral oil, 3 in 1, Break Free, Johnson's Paste Wax (my favorite long-term protectant) or even unsalted lard are more protection than is needed in 99% of the environments my guns and knives have ever found themselves in.

I'm not sure anything would have protected them from the other 1%.
 
A.P.F. said:
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This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If you live in a place where salty sea air is rampant, then Fluid film is the ticket.
You can also use RemOil for your firearms. I'd recommend lining the storage areas where you place your items with VCI style paper.
 
I use Militec-1 after heating the pivot/blade/whatever. I've never had rust and it's not only good on water but very fast as a lubricant.

In the Hinderer forum, I left an XM-18 CTC-XHP blade sit for about 30 hours with water droplets on the Militec treated blade. The water evaporated leaving nothing behind after wiping the blade with a dry cloth. There were pale white dots where each drop evaporated but they came right off.

I think any good lubricant is only as good as the owner - take care of your knives and they'll be happy! :)
 
Brian1095 said:
awesome let us know how it works for you
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i just got a 1 ounce chunk of pure beeswax. im going to wax my polished svord peasant and carbon steel masamoto chef's knife. i'll see how the beeswax works over the next week. i currently use a light film of USP mineral oil on all my non-stainless knives and it works well.
 
jimnolimit said:
i just got a 1 ounce chunk of pure beeswax. im going to wax my polished svord peasant and carbon steel masamoto chef's knife. i'll see how the beeswax works over the next week. i currently use a light film of USP mineral oil on all my non-stainless knives and it works well.
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cool it got me wondering if the wax I use for my bow would work it's called TEX-TITE Bowstring Wax it comes in a large chapstick type container. I'm just not sure what kind of wax it is or if it even matters.
 
ok I just found out the bowstring wax I use is silicone and synthetic wax not natural probably don't want to use that for a food knife, beeswax sounds like the way to go.
 
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