Corrosion protecting my knives

Brian1095 said:
cool it got me wondering if the wax I use for my bow would work it's called TEX-TITE Bowstring Wax it comes in a large chapstick type container. I'm just not sure what kind of wax it is or if it even matters.
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I've read some members post that for knives like the big choppers with coated blades, they use regular chapstick on the non-coated edge. I suppose that would work on any painted or DLC coated blade as well. That and mineral oil for food prep.

I figure whatever knife you have in a situation where you'd have to use it for food prep, that simply washing the blade would work just fine. What do you think?
 
cziv said:
I've read some members post that for knives like the big choppers with coated blades, they use regular chapstick on the non-coated edge. I suppose that would work on any painted or DLC coated blade as well. That and mineral oil for food prep.

I figure whatever knife you have in a situation where you'd have to use it for food prep, that simply washing the blade would work just fine. What do you think?
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totally agree, it would be simple to just wipe off the blade and apply more afterwards, regular chapstick is a good idea, something most people have on them and don't even think about.
 
i just finished trying the beeswax on my polished svord peasant. the wax is too thick to be used on it's own. i rubbed the block of wax a little on the blade and i had to put a dot of USP mineral oil on the paper towel and use that to get an even, super light coat. i think i will try melting the beeswax and add just a few drops of USP mineral oil to thin it out.
 
Ballistol is fine for food prep, and won't even make food taste funny. Just make sure you stick em outside for an hour after you apply it to let the aromatics evaporate.
 
Unicorn161 said:
I use Johnson's Paste Wax with good luck. Also a food grade silicone would be good too.
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I had an 18" carbon steel bayonet that I would use Johnson's Paste wax on. I kept the bayonet in my roadster that was usually never more than 1Km from the ocean - no rust, ever.

Ballistol is good too. One of the 'big three' used to use it at the factory...I think it was Buck...no, Buck used White Lightning. Spyderco perhaps?
 
jimnolimit said:
i just finished trying the beeswax on my polished svord peasant. the wax is too thick to be used on it's own. i rubbed the block of wax a little on the blade and i had to put a dot of USP mineral oil on the paper towel and use that to get an even, super light coat. i think i will try melting the beeswax and add just a few drops of USP mineral oil to thin it out.
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I suspected that would happen. I use a lot of beeswax to make homemade lubricant for cast lead bullets. Melting in a little lanolin with the mineral oil might not be a bad ideas as well. Lanolin should be food safe (people eat sheep) and it really adds tackiness or 'cling' to bullet lube formulas. I would think tackiness would be a very desirable quality in a knife blade coating.
 
elkins45 said:
I suspected that would happen. I use a lot of beeswax to make homemade lubricant for cast lead bullets. Melting in a little lanolin with the mineral oil might not be a bad ideas as well. Lanolin should be food safe (people eat sheep) and it really adds tackiness or 'cling' to bullet lube formulas. I would think tackiness would be a very desirable quality in a knife blade coating.
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Thanks, that's good to know. I have a precise scale, so I can measure out and record exactally what ratio works for me. I'll first give the beeswax/mineral oil combo a try, I can always add lanolin later on to increase tackiness.
 
At the risk of derailing the thread (briefly),I'd like to offer something that helps me keep stuff dry & unrusted @ home:

Go see your Pharmacist;take him an empty coffee can.Ask him to collect the little dessicant 'capsules' for you.
These come in ALL large bottles of pills he gets,and if you ask nicely & provide a container,he'll likely save 'em for you.
We drop 3 or 4 in our all handloading dies boxes;toss 'em every 6 months and replace 'em.
My small 'knife safe' has 'em scattered,inside.
Tool boxes contain a couple dozen,each,minimum.

One word of caution: may be ?toxic?,if chewed or swallowed?...keep out of reach of small children & pets.

~Gnarly
 
Gnarly said:

One word of caution: may be ?toxic?,if chewed or swallowed?...keep out of reach of small children & pets.

~Gnarly
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The silica gel dessicants are inert and non-toxic, that's why they can be used in medication containers without concern. Think of them as nothing more than plastic sponges, you wouldn't want to eat any, but it shouldn't harm you if you did.
 
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Thanx,CWL!

I was afraid NOT to add that....I know that dessicants wrapped in paper (ex : those found in shoeboxes,etc.) are marked "Toxic-do not chew or swallow".
Some kinda silicate,I think? Like what is used to dry flowers,I read somewhere....

Just didn't want to take chances,if children or pets could be harmed.
 
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CWL said:
The silica gel dessicants are inert and non-toxic, that's why they can be used in medication containers without concern. Think of them as nothing more than plastic sponges, you wouldn't want to eat any, but it shouldn't harm you if you did.
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Gnarly said:
Thanx,CWL!

I was afraid NOT to add that....I know that dessicants wrapped in paper (ex : those found in shoeboxes,etc.) are marked "Toxic-do not chew or swallow".
Some kinda silicate,I think? Like what is used to dry flowers,I read somewhere....

Just didn't want to take chances,if children or pets could be harmed.
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I keep the best food safe dessicants in the world in my gun safe and my knife storage.

Just lay a bag of Uncle Ben's Boil-in-Bag white rice in there - or doctor one up with a bit of women's stickings or other mesh cloth (to make smaller ones).

Geesh you guys act like all of your pushers are knife dealers. RICE - Oldest trick in the book for wicking air out of a container. :D
 
as long as you change the rice every now and then.

p.s. you'll have weapons and food ready for the zombie apocalypse ;).
 
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