Could use some help picking out a fixed blade

If chopping is the only question mark then you're choosing between two knives at this point and deciding based on the better chopper. Send Noss an email or PM and maybe he'll give you an opinion.

BTW, mineral oil is not toxic and will not turn rancid like food oils might so it's a good choice if it's at hand.

I will do, however I dont think he has ever chopped with the Rc6.



Didnt know that! I thought it wasnt good for you. Thanks for lookin out :)
 
You have set yourself a tough task here. I would like to say a couple of things about perceptions that you are bringing to the table.

a) Yes, the way a knife looks is important and you MUST find the knife aesthetically pleasing. I am a firm believer in this. As the saying goes: "Don't you buy no ugly-ass knife." BUT this is not a custom made treasure you are buying here, this is a TOOL that will be employed in vital tasks that may or may not keep your ass intact under dire circumstances. Therefore, try not to let the looks of a knife influence you too much.

b) Carbon steels are PROVEN to work extremely well at tough tasks. Practically every manufacturer and custom knifemaker who makes a hard-using outdoor knife uses high carbon steels. Some use them exclusively. A coating does help to prevent rust, which is why many manufacturers use them. Coatings are not there for looks, they are there to prevent rust. If you are going to baton with the knife and subject it to other severe strains, I would definitely go with a high carbon steel. Wash and wipe your knife down after using it, especially when cutting meat and anything with citric acids in it, and it will outlast YOU.

c) The Yard Guard will be tough to find. IF you do manage to find one, chances are VERY good it will be over $200 and won't come with a sheath. A sheath will add another $50 to the tally.

d) Based on what your criteria are, I would definitely consider the RAT line-up if the $200 is an absolute immovable figure. These knives have a huge and rabid following. That doesn't happen if the product is junk.

e) IF you can squeeze more, I would without a doubt get the Fehrman Shadow Scout. This is actually a high end knife, as close to a custom as you can get in a manufactured knife, with one of the best steels in the business. I would choose this design over the Last Chance because of the handle design. The Shadow Scout has a open ended handle, whereas the LC has a bird's beak handle. You mentioned you have big hands. That might be a problem with the LC but will NOT be a problem with the SS due to the handle design.

f) Buying the knife is only the first step. Learning how to sharpen it and keep it sharp is just as important.
 
You have set yourself a tough task here. I would like to say a couple of things about perceptions that you are bringing to the table.

a) Yes, the way a knife looks is important and you MUST find the knife aesthetically pleasing. I am a firm believer in this. As the saying goes: "Don't you buy no ugly-ass knife." BUT this is not a custom made treasure you are buying here, this is a TOOL that will be employed in vital tasks that may or may not keep your ass intact under dire circumstances. Therefore, try not to let the looks of a knife influence you too much.

b) Carbon steels are PROVEN to work extremely well at tough tasks. Practically every manufacturer and custom knifemaker who makes a hard-using outdoor knife uses high carbon steels. Some use them exclusively. A coating does help to prevent rust, which is why many manufacturers use them. Coatings are not there for looks, they are there to prevent rust. If you are going to baton with the knife and subject it to other severe strains, I would definitely go with a high carbon steel. Wash and wipe your knife down after using it, especially when cutting meat and anything with citric acids in it, and it will outlast YOU.

c) The Yard Guard will be tough to find. IF you do manage to find one, chances are VERY good it will be over $200 and won't come with a sheath. A sheath will add another $50 to the tally.

d) Based on what your criteria are, I would definitely consider the RAT line-up if the $200 is an absolute immovable figure. These knives have a huge and rabid following. That doesn't happen if the product is junk.

e) IF you can squeeze more, I would without a doubt get the Fehrman Shadow Scout. This is actually a high end knife, as close to a custom as you can get in a manufactured knife, with one of the best steels in the business. I would choose this design over the Last Chance because of the handle design. The Shadow Scout has a open ended handle, whereas the LC has a bird's beak handle. You mentioned you have big hands. That might be a problem with the LC but will NOT be a problem with the SS due to the handle design.

f) Buying the knife is only the first step. Learning how to sharpen it and keep it sharp is just as important.

Damn it man, I haven't been to that site and a while and now you've gone and made me want a satin Peace Maker to use a utility blade. :)
I don't own any Fehrman knives (yet) but a friend does and loves his so I have to agree with the recommendation you've given.

There are so many really nice knives of this type on the market from manufacturers like Bark River, Fallkniven, RAT, Ranger RD series and MANY others so I'm sure that you find one that meets your needs.

Feel free to take this with a grain of salt but I wouldn't based my buying decision so heavily on how well a knife or its coating held up while being abused on knifetests.com. I find their site interesting (so no shot at them) but we buy knives to use as cutting tools. I doubt that many of us will ever need to chop up a concrete block or destroy a metal folding chair with our knives. I just think that you pass up far too many really good blades if you dismiss them because they broke (or the coasting came off) at some point while being used in a way in which they were never intended to be used.

I hope you find the knife you're looking for and that it serves you well. :thumbup:
 
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Damn it man, I haven't been to that site and a while and now you've gone and made me want a satin Peace Maker to use a utility blade. :)
I don't own any Fehrman knives (yet) but a friend does and loves his so I have to agree with the recommendation you've given.

There are so many really nice knives of this type on the market from manufacturers like Bark River, Fallkniven, RAT, Ranger RD series and MANY others so I'm sure that you find one that meets your needs.

Feel free to take this with a grain of salt but I wouldn't based my buying decision so heavily on how well a knife or its coating held up while being abused on knifetests.com. I find their site interesting (so no shot at them) but we buy knives to use as cutting tools. I doubt that many of us will ever need to chop up a concrete block or destroy a metal folding chair with our knives. I just think that you pass up far too many really good blades if you dismiss them because they broke (or the coasting came off) at some point while being used in a way in which they were never intended to be used.

I hope you find the knife you're looking for and that it severs you well. :thumbup:

I like knifetests. Yes, I am not going to chop any concrete but that tests demonstrates what happens if say you are battoning and hit the ground where there is a rock.

The coating on the A1 came off while chopping and spitting wood, all things that the knife is designed for. Fallkniven says its a super tough coating, when obviously its not at all.
 
I like knifetests. Yes, I am not going to chop any concrete but that tests demonstrates what happens if say you are battoning and hit the ground where there is a rock.

The coating on the A1 came off while chopping and spitting wood, all things that the knife is designed for. Fallkniven says its a super tough coating, when obviously its not at all.

Since the Fallkniven is a stainless steel blade why not get one without the coating? Are you looking for a knife that is black coated be it stainless steel or not?
Either way, good luck with your search.
 
The coating on the A1 came off while chopping and spitting wood, all things that the knife is designed for. Fallkniven says its a super tough coating, when obviously its not at all.

I agree the coating is not tough but the A1 is sharp,hold an edge very well,it is strong,compact,easy to sharpen & in my opinion it is very a nice knife that feel great in hand.

The coating on stainless steel blades is useless.

In a user optic fonction should prevails over look!
 
Since the Fallkniven is a stainless steel blade why not get one without the coating? Are you looking for a knife that is black coated be it stainless steel or not?
Either way, good luck with your search.

I agree the coating is not tough but the A1 is sharp,hold an edge very well,it is strong,compact,easy to sharpen & in my opinion it is very a nice knife that feel great in hand.

The coating on stainless steel blades is useless.

In a user optic fonction should prevails over look!

I want a coating regardless. its for looks.
 
Someone has a Yard Guard with a kydex sheath that they want to sell to me, if I can get it for a decent price(not terribly far away from the price of a new Rc6) I will go for it.
 
Of course. Some last longer than others. I will get some black dura coat to refinish the blade every once and a while.

well if you don't end up getting the yard guard, then I think you have a solution to your problem about coatings - dura coat the blade every once in a while, - like you said and don't worry about the longest lasting/toughest coating, as you can just duracoat it, instead focus on the other things, like steel, ergos, looks etc, just take off the coating criteria from your list.

Becuase as everyone has been saying, all coatings will come off eventually, and really, now that your considering duracoat, well you can open your knife options up.

EDIT: I know you said your picky, but if you remain picky on everthing else and maybe drop the coating criteria you can get a real win win situation, perhaps a bit better than what your choices were if you still wanted a factory coating, Just some food for thought
 
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The question still hanging out here and I'm curious about the answer also...which knife is the better chopper, the Fallkniven A-1 or the ESEE RC-6. Anyone out there that has both or handled both that can weigh in?
 
BK7 or BK9 if you want a real chopper. ive had all sorts of knives thru the years and ive found Beckers are the best hard use knives for the money out there, hands down. my knives get used and abused and my BK2 has took everything ive thrown at it for 6 years now, and is sitting right here on my desk razor sharp and ready for more. put it this way, ive sold off my Chris Reeve knives because all they were doing was collecting dust
 
whats the price, if you don't mind sharing, becuase if its a good price, don't worry about the leather loop on the kydex sheath, as you shoudl be able to remove it, and get a kydex one put on, or simply leave it off.
Really, as you've said before, its THE knife you want, and ifs it a good price, GO FOR IT
 
whats the price, if you don't mind sharing, becuase if its a good price, don't worry about the leather loop on the kydex sheath, as you shoudl be able to remove it, and get a kydex one put on, or simply leave it off.
Really, as you've said before, its THE knife you want, and ifs it a good price, GO FOR IT

he wants 190. Reasonable price, I might go for it.
 
yeah I don't think you'll gt much better unless you go on ebay, but then buying it froma private seller you may like more, I do.
But yeah if thats a reasonable price, go for it, it seems like exactly what you are looking for, as you even said so yourself. :thumbup:
 
I know the yard guard is tougher, and better for chopping, but when it comes to tasks like battoning, preparing food or other cutting tasks the RC6 might be better because of the full flat grind. What do you guys think? Im very close to finally making a decision.


Btw ive learned very much in this search, thank you all again for showing me all the different knife company's!
 
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