Counterbores, End Mills, Bits... How do you drill holes on your folders?

This is a topic I'm curious about too. I like to learn how to do things the right way, even if I later choose to do them the easy way.

I've been trying to get into folders myself recently, reading a few books, and watching some videos. Most seem to drill each hole undersized and then ream to size as they go, usually in a mill. Allen Elishewitz has a fancy Jig Bore with a powered draw bar that he seems to be using just as a pimped out drill press, and just changes tool holders for each op, which is probably one of the best ways to do it.

I'm working with two knee mills, so I've been drilling with a GMT (Glacern) keyless R8 taper chuck, and switching to a reamer before I move to the next hole. Re-locating the same hole being a big time consumer for me. I will probably switch to using collets for the drills and reamers once I've got a full set of ER collets and a chuck for the bridgeport clone. The bigger mill is NMTB 50 taper, so it's a chore to change tooling.

I'm guessing it would be ideal to mount each standard reamer into a dedicated tool holder, and switch them out, but I'm afraid that would lead to a lot of wasted time locating the holes again?


Do you guys usually drill all your holes at once, then go back and ream, or drill and ream each hole at the same time?
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
EDIT - Who's reamers do you like?
Click to expand...

The reamers that I usually get (short, carbide, right hand spiral) are probably not correct for most people for this application. You're going to want straight or even left hand spiral (right hand cut) for hand feed in a shallow through hole. I don't want to side track this thread further when there are experienced folder makers like Hanson and DeShivs participating. So I will step out and let the pros answer.
 
Nathan, with your machinist background, your info is better than mine. I come from a blacksmith fix it with a hammer background.:) I literally lay a blade or liners on my drill press vise and drill holes while holding the part by hand. Then ream the pivot holes. I never clamp anything, or spot holes. Just the way I taught myself and probably would not work for most folks.
 
...okay...

This will be a good reamer for the application :http://www.maritool.com/Cutting-Tools-Reamers-HSS-Chucking/c78_262_263/index.html

They also sell carbide, if you're setup for that.

Reamers should be fed the same amount per tooth as a drill or more, but have more cutting edges so should be fed quite a bit more per revolution than a drill. Reamers are run slow SFM. A 1/4" hole could be reamed at 300 RPM. It is common practice to ream with oil, but I find it makes recutting chips more of a problem than just a continuous coolant blast. Don't just yank it out, feed it back out. Try it out in a piece of scrap first if you're not sure. A reamer that cuts tapered and oversized is an indication of a problem with your setup.

They sell floating reamer holders but I don't use them. I keep run out to a minimum and ream in the same setup that I drill. If you're repositioning the work you need your spindle aligned to the hole or you'll want to let your work free float on your table, don't force a reamer to fit into a hole it's not aligned with or you'll get an oversized tapered hole.

If you're doing this freehand, hold the work piece firmly to the table when you go to retract or it will lift, get cocked at an angle and bind on the reamer, ruining the hole and becoming a helicopter.
 
Nathan, Please don't be offended by what I said. You are correct about there being different ways to make knives.
Machining is great for precision and repeatability. As you know, if I were going to have any machining done, you would be the guy I would go to!
 
Not at all Bill!

Actually, the internet in general has a problem with people answering questions when they don't really know, and I didn't want to be "that guy". And this forum had a problem in the past where knowledgeable people didn't want to contribute (for whatever reason), and I didn't want to alienate you (a real knowledgeable folder maker) with "machining wisdom" that might not really even apply to folder making.

I'm glad to see some prominent makers in ST. :thumbup:
 
im getto i under size drill pivots HT then refinish the flats then use a 4 flut ball end carbide mill and chase the hole
for the Ti and tapping i jsut drill to abut 80% thread depth and tap with tapping lube (this i wnto get better at )
round, flat, parallel, and perpendicular are the keys in the folder world
 
Its also of note that reamers are widely available in half-though increments both under and oversize-- the under size ones are of particular note (reamers rarely produce a hole size smaller than their nominal diameter.) Its a good idea to purchase a .0005"/.001" under size reamer and let it run-out. It wont take care of some hole-size issues (taper, etc) but can make for producing a proper fit MUCH easier than pulling your hair out trying to get your only reamer to run to size.
 
BTW my way of pivot drilling only works since all the pivots i have ever got are over sized (that upsets me too but least i cna turn them down a tho. or 2 )
 
I'm (not very) patiently waiting for the end of my finger to heal, just got the pin out this morning.

Five weeks ago I thought I'd work on something and NOT clamp it in place- heck, always got away with it before, right?

With no time to react, I was looking at an almost completely detached finger joint. No longer do I hold pieces with one hand while using rotary tools. Five to seven weeks out of fabrication and blacksmithing work (which pays most of the bills around here) and a LOT of pain.
All I can say is, thank goodness I can still work on folders, and I took up the dobro a year ago, so not being able to play the guitar isn't such torture.

Just lucky, I guess. :o
 
yep only 2 places you want any angles on a liner/framelonck folder
and thats the lock bar face and the mating lock face on the blade
 
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