Couple of 110 observations and questions

A

AfterTFD

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Oct 28, 2007
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I decided to give a $35 Buck 110 from Walmart a try. I've got a couple of questions that I haven't been able to find an answer to.

First I was wondering if it was possible to make the opening smoother. It would be great if I could entirely do away with the resistance between when it snaps open and when it snaps shut. I don't know enough about lockbacks to take a guess at this.

Secondly the blade does not close perfectly straight. The point is closer to one side of the handle than the other. I don't care about this much but if I end up taking the knife apart to address my first concern it would be fun to take care of this as well.


One interesting discovery I made is that the top of the clip point is a small false edge. I wasn't sure if this was the case or not just from photos. This false edge can easily be sharpened although I don't think it would be a good idea to do so
 
To make it smoother...take the knife and put some dishwashing liquid or liquid hand soap right on the inside near the pivot. Run a small stream of hot water from the faucet through while opening and closing the blade. Repeat...you should see it get smooth within a few minutes.

When you're done, put some wd 40 on the pivot to get all the water out and let it dry. Works for me on all the regular 110's...I've had a harder time on the AG110 however I think due to the blade coating.

This washing method gets out the rubbing compound that is stuck between the blade and brass that most likely is causing your problem.

If it doesn't work, then you might have a really tight fitting knife.
 
The blade not being straight when closed is more or less normal. If its not normal, then its fair to say that its not abnormal. If that makes sense.

The blade on my 110 actually rubs the side when closed. Sorta irritating, but doesn't seem to affect anything.

I have a custom 110 incoming in the mail, and it dang well better not rub. :)
 
I'll give the soap trick a try. I don't have any wd-40 so I'll have to improvise a way of making sure it dries.

I forgot to make a "couple" of observations in the first post so I'll make a few more now.
-The grinding appears perfectly even and symmetrical.
-The tip is not a perfect needle tip. It's slightly round. This looks like an easy fix if I ever get around to it.
-My 110 was pretty sharp out of the box. It's not "hair-popping sharp", but it's better than any other new knife I've bought was out of the box.
 
AfterTFD...

Here are my observations on the 110 off the shelf.

They won't be perfect or consistent in finish and there will be variations from one to another.

However, they are really rugged, will last forever, and do the job extremely well.

As far as fit and finish goes...I don't think it's a priority to have them be all perfect like say a Victorinox swiss army knife where tolerances are very important for multiple tools to fit together perfectly over many many years of use.

The buck 110 is an affordable tool. If you want a perfect one, you will probably have to buy a custom shop one.
 
AfterTFD said:
A1-The grinding appears perfectly even and symmetrical.
A2-The tip is not a perfect needle tip. It's slightly round. This looks like an easy fix if I ever get around to it.
A3-My 110 was pretty sharp out of the box. It's not "hair-popping sharp", but it's better than any other new knife I've bought was out of the box.
Click to expand...

2 centavos worth..
A1- it is done with two hollow ceramic drums in a machining operation.
A2- this happens but normal is like a lancet, see a3
A3- all sharping is done by HAND ...
and as such the tip can vary some as can hair popping ability..
it is a good knife ...
a new one is put in a box every 30 sec when line is running..
 
aza77 said:
If you want a perfect one, you will probably have to buy a custom shop one.
Click to expand...

That's not a bad idea. A custom USA-made folder with an S30V or BG-42 blade at the price listed on the website is practically a steal.


Does anyone know how Buck employees sharpen the knives? They've probably got a much better way of doing it than I do.
 
AfterTFD said:
Does anyone know how Buck employees sharpen the knives?
Click to expand...

...Bwahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!... :D

Ah...You guys knew this was coming... :p

212414730_04b1484649.jpg


sheffield_knife_grinder.jpg


grinder.jpg
 
And here's another Buck Custom Shop craftsman...Secrets of sharpening handed down generation to generation...Only these artisans know how to get a hair-popping edge on a buck blade...

175775148_ef9a716dfb_o.jpg


When he's done with this blade, he'll go online and make some more changes to the Buck Web site...
 
Buck will also have a portable sharpening unit at the July BCCI show...

Sharpener.jpg


(That's the Best Western bar, btw...)
 
334dave will also be giving a demonstration of the value of gloves, safety glasses, athletic supporters, etc while sharpening your knife...Yes, that's Dave! ;)

3240335.jpg
 
:cool:...Ya never mentioned spending so much time around the Buck plant Trax. The technology I see is way beyond what I had imagined...
laffinglikeanut.gif
 
soon as my face and jaw quit hurting i will post more...
athletic supporters, etc
Click to expand...
yes, could be if i bend over while wearing my kilt it would show i guess...
will you check on that for me at the bar? :p
 
If you paid $35 for a 110 from Wally World, you were had. They are still $24.96 locally.

I have a few 110s, two CS 110s, an AG110, and my 560XLT with a 110 blade. That latter example is the only one that came difficult to open or close. I attributed that to the Ti handle. From the $8-$11 'Collector's tin' from after Christmas closeout sales to my CS Damascus, the blades were all symmetrically edged and well-centered when closed. The fit and finish is all the same, too - perfectly fine. Maybe I am just lucky?

I'd take that 110 back and checkout another example - after checking the WM site for the proper price. A 110 is a 'keeper'!

Stainz
 
With shipping considered I got mine for probably as cheap as possible. It's not "difficult" to open; it's just not smooth enough to quickly "spyderdrop" open. I don't know whether a buck 110 is supposed to be smooth enough for that or not.
 
chickentrax said:
http://www.sakurashears.com/images/grinder.jpg[/img]
Click to expand...

My grandfather had one of these on his farm many, many years ago that was used for sharpening all varieties of implements (e.g., plow shears), and yes, I had even seen him sharpen his knife with it on one occasion. I have searched for this piece numerous times every time I return home, but have never been able to locate it. :( :grumpy: :mad: Probably, a good thing because the wife would never allow me to bring it back to set up a custom sharpening shop!! ;)

Edit: Well, dang, the phot didn't copy!!
 
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