Couple of stropping questions...

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Opinel#6

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Okay, can you strop a conventional V-ground edge without fear or convexing the knife at all? My thought was that this would just polish the edge and not exactly sharpen it or take any metal off.

And then second, instead of paying the extra cash for a strop that's attached to flat piece of wood, could you just buy the field strop or use a piece of leather, apply the compound and set it down on a hard flat surface?
 
sure. i buy leather at tandy co. and strop away. i have plenty of homemade strops made for under $20 and a couple of trips to the local mega hardware store for the flat wood[i use oak] and a trip to the local leather supplier. for $20-25 i bet you can make 3 or 4 high quality strops.
 
Sure. I use the cheapest of pinewoods from the doityourself shop as the base and have bought some leather from which i can make quality strops in all sizes.
 
If you're going to use compound, there isn't really any need to use leather (unless you want to) for your substrate. Any flat, smooth surface that can hold the compound will work just fine.

If you want leather and don't want to spend money, go to the local thrift store and find an old leather belt. Use the smooth side of the leather. If you want something nicer, Jantz Knifemaker's Supply sells a 12"x12" piece of good quality veg tanned cowhide for under $15. You can make three very nice strops out of that. Glue them down to a flat piece of board, and you're ready to go.

(P.S. Use compounds on two of them, but leave one bare to use as your final strop!)

Stitchawl
 
I used those big honkin 5 gallon paint stirring sticks from Home Depot. They work great.
 
Okay, can you strop a conventional V-ground edge without fear or convexing the knife at all? My thought was that this would just polish the edge and not exactly sharpen it or take any metal off.

And then second, instead of paying the extra cash for a strop that's attached to flat piece of wood, could you just buy the field strop or use a piece of leather, apply the compound and set it down on a hard flat surface?

Paying extra cash? Nonsence! Flat pieces of wood is not really rare things to find. Best leather is Tandy Leather №9831-00, and it was something like $30 for half cow hide...

http://www.youtube.com/user/nozh2002?feature=mhum#p/u/75/3WY8rhecws8

I make one for myself out of wenge wood and out of ebony, but just because I think it is cool, otherwise pine will work just fine.

Do not glue it - it need some room to stretch under pressure, this is important to not to roll out edge.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Thankyou, I know how to adress my lack-of-strop issue. But when I have my strop will I be able to polish v-grinds? Or are strops only for convex grinds?
 
Less pressure. And perhaps use just wood. It should work fine.

I used an ice-cream stick a few times. It's pretty good, but the sticks aren't always flat. Other than that it works all right.
 
I recently tried some balsa wood strips. Just bare with the compound applied worked really well. Especially considering a 3 foot strip 1" wide is just over one buck US. Has just a little give and is porous enough to grab the compound. Has two sides which are identical. I also bought a length of square balsa stock and sanded it down to match the serrations on a spyderco. One big one small. It'll take some work but I think this will work pretty well on serrations as well.
 
Thankyou, I know how to adress my lack-of-strop issue. But when I have my strop will I be able to polish v-grinds? Or are strops only for convex grinds?

Sure, It will be little bit convex mathematically speaking but not "convexed edge" in knife world meaning. It will be v-edge. If leather thick and soft - it will curve edge, but thin abd hard leather, stretched not glued will work just fine. Of course you should use light touch and observe what are you doing to edge under good light (with edge shoulder on the leather - very edge should barely touch surface).

Well, it will be easy for you to try then to put all this in words...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
READ THE POSTS in HIS SIG!^^^

After reading a few old posts from Knifenut, I got free paint stirrer sticks from Home Depot, applied white compound stick "rouge" from Sears, and stropped right on the wood. Worked great. A couple of swipes on bare leather nailed to a board after compound/wood, and it's a great edge. FWIW, I've been doing this for over 30 years, and still learning, but this is a good method for sharpening, maintaining an edge. Once you set the bevel on stones (I either reprofile a new blade with diamonds/dmt, or a sharpmaker at 30), you only have to strop for a minute to bring the edge back. Don't let it get dull, and you will always have a sharp knife. Come home from work, do chores. Chores Probably only take a few minutes a day, if you organize your life properly. In that "chores" category, is to strop the knife. Maybe once a week if you do not use the knife very hard, or it's a hard steel. Should only take a second. I keep my strops by the pool chems, so while I maintain the pool, I can just swipe the EDC knife, and back in the pocket. If I haven't used it much, don't bother.
 
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With materials, shipping etc I think it'd be cheaper to just buy a preloaded belt strop.
 
Check my sig

This is bad example of strop - this is what I start from and pretty fast get rid of it and use thinner leather.

sharpening-03.jpg


Now I rip off WoodCraft leather from this blocks and stretch better one - upholstry leather over them.

Thick tooling leather from Woodcraft:
1. Too soft.
2. Glue came through in some point and sticky surface does not help sharpening.
3. Too expensive - in Tandy leather you may by 10 times bigger piece of same leather for less.
4. This leather surface almost glossy - good leather for stropping need to have more pores.

Leather need to be thin and stretched.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Your calling handamerican leather poor leather?

your kidding right?
 
Your calling handamerican leather poor leather?

your kidding right?

Precisely! I am not kidding. Their piece of leather cost $20 and does not do any good for honing.

This leather is good to make sheath or slabs for handle, it also absorbs color pretty well, it is good for lanyards too. But in Tandy it cost $5 for much bigger cut out - I just got three recently for sheath and lanyard size wary, but roughly 4-5 times bigger then Hand American Made little piece.

For honing upholstery much better. Of course I am talking about knives - can not say anything about chisels - main WoodCraft focus.

I used "Hand American Made" leather from Woodcraft for quite some time - I was proud that I found one which was specially made for honing, but without too much success until finally realized that I need to change it.

I try this one - Tandy Leather Factory №9831-00 (like $30 for half cow hide) - results everybody know.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
You should learn more about leather.

Yes I should. But from what I already learned - Hand American Made is not good for sharpening. I hope you will learn this too.

What I learned.

Leather kind of bend under pressure and tend to not just convexing edge but dull it making very edge round. The thicker leather - more this effect take place. And leather may looks hard in hands, but it is still much softer then steel and during honing if angle is bit bigger then it need to be - blade will contact leather surface by very edge and pressure accumulated on this very edge contacting leather will be much bigger then it feel.

Of course careful angle control and low pressure may resolve this issue but it is harder if leather is thick. Thinner leather - less it depress down and make curve which round edge.

But this is not only problem - if leather fixed on block, it resist more if you move not perfect - which always happen. If leather is free to move a little, it will not resist to small variation in force or direction and so kind of buffer human hands little mistakes.

Some people for same reason hold both knife and sharpening stone in hands in the air. But if leather stretched (and hard leather impossible to stretch and it is not flexible), it is OK at least for me to do honing on the table - it is forgiveful enough.

Leather surface structure also important - if it has pores it absorb Green Rouge as sponge as well as steel dust, allows honing paste to hold and create honing surface. This is I noticed right away when I return to American Handmade Leather some time ago - continues honing surface does not happen on it - Green Rouge has nothing to grab on.

So this is all theory - I am trying to explain my practical experience. Which is simple, once I switch from "Special honing" leather to upholstery - results got much much better right away.

Then I stop learning - I have results and so far nobody did better. Many did same, but nobody better.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Did better than what? you?

Like I said you need to do your homework on leather, look up a few threads and get your facts straight.

FYI, the HA leather I used in that thread is made just for stropping and is about 1/16 inch thick.
 
Lets see, 15 years of hand selecting honing leather for Woodcraft stores, over 50,000 pieces sold & used....

One complaint.

So far, so good - thanks Knifenut,

Keith
 
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