couple pics of my new baby

ordered my bluelube and tool kit on benchmade.com and watched some youtube vids on the sharpmaker and it looks awesome... are the stones solid or something coated I can't tell
 
m8r8j said:
ordered my bluelube and tool kit on benchmade.com and watched some youtube vids on the sharpmaker and it looks awesome... are the stones solid or something coated I can't tell
Click to expand...

All the stones except the diamond rods are actual ceramic stones. The fine and UF rods will last a lifetime. The brown coarse stones should last you around 5-7 years depending on use.
 
this forum is awesome!! where abouts did you order yours from? spydercos website is asking 90 bucks:eek:
 
Don't be surprised if it takes you much longer on the sharpmaker
before you actually begin to hit the edge. I suggest using the sharpie technique.

If you can, spring for the Diamond rods, and spend some time to reprofile
the bevel using the 30 degree side.

Once that is done, then go back to the 40 degree side and spend a few minutes
to put a microbevel on there. By the end, you will have a fantastic edge. At least that's
what I did, and I am really happy with it.

Good luck, I got my SM from knifeworks.
 
ok I will definitely look into it...

here's a shot in the dark but anyone know what degree angle is on my rift from the factory?

and do you wanna elaborate on the sharpie thing for me???

thanks again guys... more than helpful to me
 
m8r8j said:
ok I will definitely look into it...

here's a shot in the dark but anyone know what degree angle is on my rift from the factory?

and do you wanna elaborate on the sharpie thing for me???

thanks again guys... more than helpful to me
Click to expand...

Just going from experience your benchmade probably has around a 50 degree inclusive bevel. Most benchmade's have very obtuse bevels from the factory.

I'm almost positive you will need to do some reprofiling on the 30 degree setting before moving to the 40 degree setting. This is called reprofiling or back beveling. Once you have thinned the edge out enough sharpening on the 40 degree setting will go very quickly and easily.
 
Take a sharpy marker and cover the edge bevel. Then when you sharpen it, you can see where the black ink is being removed.

If it's only removed at the top of the bevel (the "shoulder") and not at the very edge, the blade is too wide at that point, you aren't sharpening it, and you need to re-profile. Diamonds are best, ceramic alone will maintain a good edge, but take too long to cut away the excess steel.

If the marker ink is worn away only at the very edge, you're good: it is sharpening where it needs to.
 
I guess I need to read up on reprofiling and microbeveling Hahaha...

so the 30 deg setting will take metal off quicker and will get me to the 40 degrees quicker is that what your saying???

and in a previous post you told me to sharpen at 40 degrees... were you suggesting to put a 30 on it first and then micro it to 40 or just use a straight 40???
 
m8r8j said:
I guess I need to read up on reprofiling and microbeveling Hahaha...

so the 30 deg setting will take metal off quicker and will get me to the 40 degrees quicker is that what your saying???

and in a previous post you told me to sharpen at 40 degrees... were you suggesting to put a 30 on it first and then micro it to 40 or just use a straight 40???
Click to expand...

If the 40 degree setting isn't hitting the very edge (after checking with the sharpie like esav suggested) then you need to wear away the shoulders of the edge using the 30 degree setting.

The 30 degree setting doesn't wear away metal any faster than the 40, it merely thins the edge out enough so that the 40 degree setting will actually sharpen the very edge instead of just hitting the shoulders of the bevel.
 
I think im lost... if the factory angle was 50 then wouldn't the 30 and the 40 both just hit the shoulders because its so obtuse??
 
Exactly. Wearing away the shoulders with the 30 is known as back-beveling.

Imagine this: you have a great knife you've used for years. Periodically, you use the 40 setting the sharpen it. Eventually, you wear so much of the edge away, the blade becomes narrower, and while the edge remains at 40, the distance between the shoulder and the edge becomes less. Every time you slice something, the material bumps into the shoulder.

So you turn to the 30 degree setting and narrow the shoulder, reproducing the original silhouette of the blade's primary and secondary bevels: you "back" the "bevel" further up the side of the blade.
 
m8r8j said:
I think im lost... if the factory angle was 50 then wouldn't the 30 and the 40 both just hit the shoulders because its so obtuse??
Click to expand...

Yes. That's why you "reprofile" using the 30 degree setting. Working the bevel on the 30 degree setting will eventually thin the bevel out enough so that you can put a microbevel on it at 40 degrees.

Your only aim using the 30 degree setting is to thin the bevel out.
 
m8r8j said:
I think im lost... if the factory angle was 50 then wouldn't the 30 and the 40 both just hit the shoulders because its so obtuse??
Click to expand...

Yes, IF the original angle was 50 ... which it may not be. That's why you start at 40 with the edge markered over, to see where the 40 is sharpening the actual blade, not the supposed Benchmade average blade.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
Exactly. Wearing away the shoulders with the 30 is known as back-beveling.

Imagine this: you have a great knife you've used for years. Periodically, you use the 40 setting the sharpen it. Eventually, you wear so much of the edge away, the blade becomes narrower, and while the edge remains at 40, the distance between the shoulder and the edge becomes less. Every time you slice something, the material bumps into the shoulder.

So you turn to the 30 degree setting and narrow the shoulder, reproducing the original silhouette of the blade's primary and secondary bevels: you "back" the "bevel" further up the side of the blade.
Click to expand...


Exactly. I was trying to think of a way to make it more understandable but I couldn't.
 
m8r8j said:
I think im lost... if the factory angle was 50 then wouldn't the 30 and the 40 both just hit the shoulders because its so obtuse??
Click to expand...

Yes but you want to remove the excess metal where the "shoulder" is untill your contacting the cutting edge of the blade with whatever sharpening degree you are using. When the new angle degree, lets say 30 degrees inclusive, is sharpening the entire bevel then you have successfully re-profiled the bevel to that angle and can move up in rods/grits to get a more refined edge.
 
We're all painting pictures and drawing diagrams with words. It usually takes a few tries to make it all clear.
 
ok I think im getting it... but to me when I look close it looks like my benchmades original edge doesn't have a micro bevel on it, it just looks like one continuous angle...

so I need to get the entire edge to 30 degrees and once that's done put a 40 micro on it?

and when I sharpen it just use the 40 until its time to touch up the 30 degree larger bevel???

when will I know its time to touch that up? like once in every 3 sharpens?
 
m8r8j said:
ok I think im getting it... but to me when I look close it looks like my benchmades original edge doesn't have a micro bevel on it, it just looks like one continuous angle...

so I need to get the entire edge to 30 degrees and once that's done put a 40 micro on it?

and when I sharpen it just use the 40 until its time to touch up the 30 degree larger bevel???

when will I know its time to touch that up? like once in every 3 sharpens?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you got it. Your benchmade most likely only has one angle on it. If you want you can put a micro bevel on it after you re profile the edge. You dont have to but people like it.

There is no set number, it depends how you use and how you sharpen the knife. A micro bevel isnt needed for a sharp edge. You will get the hang of it once you get a hands on. Maybe purchase a cheapo knife and practice on that.
 
so for the larger 30 deg bevel, do i use the fine stone too? or just use the fine stone on the micro bevel?

and do people usually touch up the large bevel and small bevel each time they sharpen the knife??

i might just keep it at 40 deg and not put a micro on it, it sounds like a pain to do...
 
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