CPM 154-CM oil quench question ????

Status
Not open for further replies.
12345678910 said:
No it doesn't make it colder, but you need a liquid to contact the steel and transfer the heat.

Water and most other liquids would freeze.

Use it.
Click to expand...

i am glad i asked. are there any store bought items that have enough acetone in them to work? if so what?
 
this is not the cheapest hobby so you might hav eot buy straight up acetone be warned that you cant use a cooler to hold the mix as it will jsut eat it up

here are a few temps and times for my cpm154
1500 5 min
2000 30min
plate quench and then right into LN over night
temper 400 2 hours X2
RC 62-63
i however am a kitchen knife maker and the higher hardness is no problemm
(STD. responce of your kiln ,quench and steel batch my differ from mine and you need to test on your way to the HT that works for you )
 
chad2 said:
i am glad i asked. are there any store bought items that have enough acetone in them to work? if so what?
Click to expand...


A can.
I just buy Acetone by the quart or the gallon in the hardware and auto parts store store.
It works for glue clean-up too.


http://www.homedepot.com/Paint/h_d1...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
17$ a gallon at Homedepot.com in the USA

It's in the paint section.

Butch
Good point on the cooler, it will eat Styrofoam and many plastics up

39dd7db9-f0c8-41e5-aada-027fa6c9e4ec_300.jpg
 
butcher_block said:
this is not the cheapest hobby so you might hav eot buy straight up acetone be warned that you cant use a cooler to hold the mix as it will jsut eat it up

here are a few temps and times for my cpm154
1500 5 min
2000 30min
plate quench and then right into LN over night
temper 400 2 hours X2
RC 62-63
i however am a kitchen knife maker and the higher hardness is no problemm
(STD. responce of your kiln ,quench and steel batch my differ from mine and you need to test on your way to the HT that works for you )
Click to expand...

now i was just reading that 99 % alcohol can be used but that person was not using it for knife making is there a reason i can not use alcohol?
 
Chad,
Please allow me to be blunt, but please understand that I am not trying to put you down.

You have posted a lot about all sorts of HT and knife making topics , but clearly have no idea how it is done and certainly know nothing about stainless steel HT. I would suggest you do some reading and study on the subject before posting farther and certainly before starting any sort of HT.

You may feel that this is overly cautious, but you have to understand that we need to consider anyone who is uninformed on the topics discussed here as a person who might mis-read some advise and quench their CPM-154 in a can of acetone and dry ice. I am not saying that you would...but I am sure someone has done it.....and blamed the advise they got on a forum.

I would recommend sending your blades out for HT until you have the equipment and skills to do it yourself.
 
Last edited:
Not quench in dry ice i am going to quench with plates and crying overnight in ethics
 
i will be blunt to yes you are right i have never done cryo treatments before but i have done stainless steel before 440c and it came out perfect which was done in oil.s yes i had a lot of questions about how to cryo. also i have just resently found out that motor oil is one of the very low end oils you can use i thought it was at least in the middle, which is the reason i started this thread. second i ask justine one more time just to be shure of what he told me and this is what he said


{(Justin Gingrich) Ok keep in mind everyone and I mean everyone has their own opinion on how to heat treat a steel so you have to find what works best for you. Crucible says you can get it harder by oil quenching it. Also can get it harder by the higher austenite temperature so say 1950 air gets you 59 1950 oil gets 60,...2050 air gets 61 2050 oil gets 63. Those are 100% but you can see how things vary. I oil quench my 154 and have had great results with it. Once I plunge it in oil I leave it there till the bubbles stop. So it is cooled to below 200 degrees and preffereably lower than that!

Thickness doesn't matter...the only thing you have to watch is the thnner you go the more the steel may want to twist or bend when you quench it.

I hope this helps and if there is anything that I can do just let me know.}

now keep in mind that this guy is a very succesful knife maker! i am pretty sure none of you have matched his succesfulness lol so who are you to tell me that i have no idea what i am talking about especially when i never said anything about quenching in dry ice. just being blunt

by the way justin gingrich messaged me this on wednesday the day after all of you told me that oil quenching 154 was a bad idea and i still took your guyes advice. if you think i am lying i can give you justin's email address and you can email him your self.

..
 
Stacy, could you please lock this train wreck of ignorance before someone follows this guy's advice and gets hurt?

-Page
 
Chad,
Folks have given good advice, and have been very helpful. You ask questions and make statements that lead folks to believe that you are not as knowledgeable as you think you are.
If you don't want advice other than, or contrary to, Justin's then don't ask. BTW, does Justin know you've dragged him publicly into your foot stomping?

Edit: Page, I wouldn't have posted if I had seen your request to lock the thread- we posted simultaneously.
 
chad2 said:
i will be blunt to yes you are right i have never done cryo treatments before but i have done stainless steel before 440c and it came out perfect which was done in oil.s yes i had a lot of questions about how to cryo. also i have just resently found out that motor oil is one of the very low end oils you can use i thought it was at least in the middle...
Click to expand...

No you never said it but I think Stacy was covering all his basis, being unsure that you are serious or just trolling. Statements like this one above makes me think trolling.
You've done cryo and 440 stainless but haven't read enough to know the basis about oil and where motor oil stood?
The shift key seems to be broken on your keyboard and the punctuation keys are starting to go too.

I vote troll until proven otherwise.
 
Chad it looks like Justin hooked you up. Keep his email close by. I have a feeling your gonna need it from now on :rolleyes:
 
Your making the mistake of assuming successful knife making equal knowledge of heat treatment. They are not the same.
 
Patrice Lemée;10159658 said:
No you never said it but I think Stacy was covering all his basis, being unsure that you are serious or just trolling. Statements like this one above makes me think trolling.
You've done cryo and 440 stainless but haven't read enough to know the basis about oil and where motor oil stood?
The shift key seems to be broken on your keyboard and the punctuation keys are starting to go too.

I vote troll until proven otherwise.
Click to expand...

alright i am obviously wrong! when i said that i was taking everyones advice here.

also if you read a little closer i said i have NEVER! done cryo treatments. i did NOT say that i had DONE cryo treatments.

yes i have worked with 440c once before and i quenched it in motor oil, and it came out just fine.

you guys are telling me that i obviously know nothing! because i got some of what you guys call bad info. i never said i was going to quench in dry ice, i actually said that i was going to use 1" thick aluminum plates to quench!

i would like it if you guys read a little closer and all the posts before calling it a train wreck because i have clearly stated my heat treatment methods that go along with what you guys are telling me to do!

the only reason i brought up the oil again is because you guys have no idea who i am and are obviously not reading everything and are telling me that i have no idea what i am talking about when it was just bad info and you are trying to tell me that i would dry ice quench 154cm steel that is 1950 degrees when it comes out i am not a retard! but atleast i know how to read.

i will post it again my heat treat procces is going to be

wrap blade in 2100 degree tool wrap, heat paragon kiln to 1450 degrees F, place blade in at 1400 degrees F, soak at 1450 degrees F for 10 minutes, ramp kiln to 1950 degrees F, soak for 30 minutes, pull out of kiln place stainless steel wrapped blade on top of a 4" width by 10" long by 1" thick aluminum plate place other aluminum plate of the same demensions on top of blade and place weight on top of that for about 5 to 10 mins then pull blade out of tool wrap and place blade in dry ice/ acetone for an over nighter. morning time pull blade out of dry ice, let heat up to room temp then place in paragon kiln that is already heated to 550 degrees F for 2 hours pull out and let cool till cool to touch then place back in kiln at 550 degrees F for another 2 hours pull out let cool untill cool to touch and done!

if this is what you call a train wreck then let me know if i am doing something wrong but i dont take kindly to someone telling me that i said something that i did NOT say and NONE of you would either. so maybe i have affended some of you by some of the things that i said and i am sorry for that but dont put words in my mouth and read fully next time. thank you i have tried to not be rude and i like to think of my self as a nice guy.

no one likes to be accused of something they did not say or do so from here on lets keep this thread for info purposses only :D
 
me2 said:
Your making the mistake of assuming successful knife making equal knowledge of heat treatment. They are not the same.
Click to expand...

lol that is for sure but i have seen ranger knives go through a very hardcore destruction test and it with stood pretty well. but yes i agree that there are some companies out there doing really well with crap knives :)
 
550 sounds a little high. Otherwise, sounds reasonable to me.
 
start at a 450F temper then have it tested so you knwo how much more you need to go by reading the datasheets a bit
also it had better not take 5-10 min to get the blade to room temp i have 3/32 blades form 2000f to room temp in about 20 sec (under 1000f under 6 sec)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top