CPM 3V: Is it really worth it?

I used my Carothers heavy chopper for the first time yesterday. I swung it hard about ten times into a stump. Afterwards, I brushed it off. Pretty much still looks brand new. So yeah, 3V (in this case Delta 3V) is an awesome steel. :thumbsup:
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
I also support this.
I use the low temper From Peters....
LOVE IT.

In canse the OP hasnt decided yet.
Just do it. Totally worth the price.
Heat treat is everything.

Custom heats are a big improvement over industry standard. ( including low temper protocol)
And Delta 3V is best. Check out carothers performance knives for that.
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I still remember a model you posted a couple of years ago, the Iridium bushcraft if I have it correct. Great looking blade. I'll bet it would be awesome in a good 3V.

Edit: This one
 
Even after I regroud this one for a steeper angle and batoned through a ton of hardwood, it still has the finger tipp sticky edge on it!!

I'm so confident using this blade for any task considered hard on a fixed blade..

PtqLeKL.png
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
I also support this.
I use the low temper From Peters....
LOVE IT.

In canse the OP hasnt decided yet.
Just do it. Totally worth the price.
Heat treat is everything.

Custom heats are a big improvement over industry standard. ( including low temper protocol)
And Delta 3V is best. Check out carothers performance knives for that.
Click to expand...
Carothers seems to be something special, so yeah, I'll probably just go ahead and check out their stuff and see if anything catches my eye.
 
DocJD said:
:) Only if you actually break or find that your Survivalist is somehow lacking . Drop forged 52100 steel should be pretty dang tough ! :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Exactly what do you need to do and what is it worth to you to pay extra ? Only you can determine this . :confused:
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You're absolutely right! My drop forged survivalist in 52100 can probably do everything I could ever want it to.. buuuut just like most of you guys I'm a knife junkie and am always looking to upgrade just for the heck of it. I've got a serious problem and there's no cure lol
 
353 said:
Even after I regroud this one for a steeper angle and batoned through a ton of hardwood, it still has the finger tipp sticky edge on it!!

I'm so confident using this blade for any task considered hard on a fixed blade..

PtqLeKL.png
Click to expand...
That's a great looking little knife, what is it?
 
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I'm pretty dead set on getting a blade in 3V now because all of you so far have made this steel seem like Superman and who wouldn't want a Superman knife lol. Now just have to figure out which one to go with. Thanks again everyone for the replies, you've definitely convinced me to need.. err want this steel.
 
In most situations 5160, sk5 and all other high quality carbon steels are perfect for the job.

Most people theorize on hypothetical needs that has nothing in common with their actual use.

Do you really need cpm 3v: no
Is it a cool option: yes
 
AshesFall said:
Hi all! I'm looking into higher grade steels for a future 6 to 7in fixed blade purchase and I already have fixed blades in 5160 (Ontario RD tanto) and 52100 (cold steel survivalist) and like those a lot, but I'm wondering if CPM 3V is worth the premium price tag for an upgrade? Now I already know CPM 3V is sometimes referred to as a semi stainless, close, but not stainless and I know it's supposed to be super tough stuff. So say I wanted to baton wood a lot and do a good bit of chopping without the use of an axe, would the extra little bit of stainless properties and the "super toughness" really be that much better over 5160 and 52100? Not saying I wouldn't be fine with those two steels, but I've been wanting a new knife in something a little more premium for awhile now and thought I'd get some expert opinions on CPM 3V.
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There's many over hyped steels out there not worth the extra $. 3V is not one of them. :cool:
 
Is 3V worth the additional cost? Depends. Depending on blade geometry and heat treat, 3V should be tougher than 52100, have better wear resistance than 5160, and better corrosion resistance than both 52100 and 5160, at a higher cost. Have either of your other blades failed in usage? Do you need the performance increased 3V offers, and are you willing to pay for it? Only you know, but there is nothing wrong with buying a knife just because you want it.
 
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WillB said:
There's many over hyped steels out there not worth the extra $. 3V is not one of them. :cool:
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Agreed. 3V seems to me like it's definitely worth the extra cash, based on what I've been learning so far anyhow. Getting off of the 3V discussion for a second, I believe H1 IMHO is one of those expensive over hyped steels because even though it seems really cool having a practically rust proof steel, that's all it's got going for it. There are other steels that handle salt water just as well and hold an edge much better for less cash, but that's just based off of my opinion and my own knowledge. I know many people have their opinions on H1 and will disagree with this statement.
 
353 said:
It's a Bark River Bushcrafter and it's not all that small. But blade lenght is 3.94"(100mm) so it's more of a allround knife than a chopper.[/QUOTE
353 said:
It's a Bark River Bushcrafter and it's not all that small. But blade lenght is 3.94"(100mm) so it's more of a allround knife than a chopper.
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I was thinking that was a Bark River because I've been interested in them for awhile now. Really like their designs, but don't know if I want to go for one just yet until I look around a bit more. I think it just seemed small to me because most of my fixed blades are 5in and over and I've only got a few that are under 5in. Small fixed blades definitely have their place though, easier to carry and conceal.
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AshesFall said:
Agreed. There are other steels that handle salt water just as well and hold an edge much better for less cash, but that's just based off of my opinion and my own knowledge.
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Regarding the "other steels that handle salt water just as well and hold an edge much better for less cash", what steels do you mean? H1 is the most rustproof steel there is, you can actually leave it on the seafloor for years and nothing happens to it. Very nice if you are gonna use a folder in and around the sea, your pivot is gonne be guaranteed rust free! :cool::thumbsup:

H1 also has a great deal of thoughness going for it.
 
353 said:
Regarding the "other steels that handle salt water just as well and hold an edge much better for less cash", what steels do you mean? H1 is the most rustproof steel there is, you can actually leave it on the seafloor for years and nothing happens to it. Very nice if you are gonna use a folder in and around the sea, your pivot is gonne be guaranteed rust free! :cool::thumbsup:

H1 also has a great deal of thoughness going for it.
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I agree it is the most corrosion resistant steel you can get, but I just believe 420HC,14c28n or even N690co would work almost as good for less cash. I mean I'm obviously no expert here and that's just my humble opinion on steels that I would choose over H1 if I wanted a salt water blade. Not saying H1 doesn't have it's place and fans, just saying I believe for how expensive it is that it's a bit over hyped.
 
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