Cpm-3v vs a2?

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I'd personally not pick scandi grind as it's pretty much only good for carving wood. Pure bushcraft - sure, scandi is good.
But for survival, regular use or anything else - I'd want saber or full flat grind.

Then steel - I doubt you'll break either. 3V should be a lot tougher though.
3V will be more corrosion resistant.
3V will hold the edge significantly longer.
A2 will be easier to sharpen.

So it depends on if you carry a sharpener or not. Every steel gets dull eventually. I'd hate sharpening 3V on a rock, hell, I'd hate to have to sharpen anything on a rock, but I'd rather sharpen A2 on a rock than 3V.
 
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As above depends on your use and preference re grind/knife shape etc... I'd not have a problem with either and both steels well HTed should never break under appropriate useage.

I've no working blades in Cpm3v (carpentry) but many blades in A2 - chisels and plane blades which do have an excellent HT (Lie Neilsen, Veritas etc...) and all have stood up extremely well under heavy constant use. A2 is easy to sharpen and ime holds an edge very well.
 
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LostCause said:
I'd personally not pick scandi grind as it's pretty much only good for carving wood. Pure bushcraft - sure, scandi is good.
But for survival, regular use or anything else - I'd want saber or full flat grind.

Then steel - I doubt you'll break either. 3V should be a lot tougher though.
3V will be more corrosion resistant.
3V will hold the edge significantly longer.
A2 will be easier to sharpen.

So it depends on if you carry a sharpener or not. Every steel gets dull eventually. I'd hate sharpening 3V on a rock, hell, I'd hate to have to sharpen anything on a rock, but I'd rather sharpen A2 on a rock than 3V.
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Was thinking of scandi-vexing the edge on any of the 2 knives I get. Would that work?
 
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Dav1 said:
As above depends on your use and preference re grind/knife shape etc... I'd not have a problem with either and both steels well HTed should never break under appropriate useage.

I've no working blades in Cpm3v (carpentry) but many blades in A2 - chisels and plane blades which do have an excellent HT (Lie Neilsen, Veritas etc...) and all have stood up extremely well under heavy constant use. A2 is easy to sharpen and ime holds an edge very well.
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Use would be bushcraft, batoning, carving stuff like it
 
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Christian bradfort said:
Was thinking of scandi-vexing the edge on any of the 2 knives I get. Would that work?
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That would be good. Also making the grind bit taller would most likely be ideal at that.

I checked both knives, A2 knife is 3mm thick, 3V is 4mm thick.

Batonning is going to be easier with thicker blade, but thicker blade with scandi grind (especially if it's not tall grind) won't cut very well. If you are reprofiling then you can make it to your own specs.

They are both good knives, so I doubt you'll go wrong with either. And you know the best what you plan to use your knife for.
 
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Then either would be fine, A2 is ime a nice steel so would be more than OK. But it's your choice, both are very easy to sharpen with small diamond stone such as a Dc4 or diafold both easy to carry with you if that's a concern.
 
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LT makes pretty good looking knives.
3v is generally considered way better, are they priced similar?
 
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I have several knives from LT with different steels. I have several in O1, A2, and one in 3V. They all have been excellent. For the type of work you are talking about, I don’t think you would notice much difference in them, other than corrosion resistance. If you were cutting more abrasive stuff then i would go 3v. A2 is easier to sharpen with non diamond mediums.
 
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I'm a 3V fan although there's nothing wrong with A2 if you keep it protected from corrosion - or are willing to just let it go. It is easier to sharpen but 3V is good, tough stuff.

As for thickness, grinds (Scandi, etc.) a SAK slices like nobody's business, is lightweight, slips into a pocket and is relatively inexpensive. A SAK - especially the longer blade models along with a beast of a chopper/wood splitter ... is not a bad combination to have afield. Even a FFG lightweight pocket folder compliments a HD fixed blade werll.
 
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Christian bradfort said:
They are priced similar in USA, I'm from eu, where import taxes make all the diffrence, the one in 3v would cost me around 380eur give or take, the a2 300 eur!
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I'm surprised you can't find something similar more local?

Here in the USA A2 isn't as trendy or "Hot/Popular" as 3V.

I think most people Here would pick 3V.........heck, even 3V is losing ground to Cruwear, and now more recently Magnacut. :/

* I like Most steels.
Buy what you like, and what's available. I personally feel handle shape (comfort) is more important
 
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CPM 3v is technically better all around, but A2 is not bad at all. Enough chrome that maintenance is minimal for me. For different knives, 3V vs A2 would be the last criteria I'd use to decide which one to buy.
 
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Crag the Brewer said:
I'm surprised you can't find something similar more local?

Here in the USA A2 isn't as trendy or "Hot/Popular" as 3V.

I think most people Here would pick 3V.........heck, even 3V is losing ground to Cruwear, and now more recently Magnacut. :/

* I like Most steels.
Buy what you like, and what's available. I personally feel handle shape (comfort) is more important
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There is stuff locally, but the thing is their warranty isn't good, or it says batoning etc is abuse... pretty much warranty is why I don't want to buy more locally, idk myb you know some eu brands that don't screw you when it comes to standing behind your product. I have a fallkniven s1x, the knife is okay (lacks character, and if it does somehow break, then good luck trying to get it covered w fallknivens warranty😅
 
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goldie said:
Does A2 rust that easily? I dont think ive ever used that steel....
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If you are backpacking for a month and it's raining the whole time, and your knife is packed away in a duffle bag, soaked and unused that whole time, ignored.......... It will rust.


If you are getting rained on, and actually Using your knife, wiping it off when you can, it will patina easily, but not likely rust, or If it does, it will buff off pretty easily later back at home.
*None of my A2 is rusty. I just happen to choose Other steels over it now in my knife buying journey. I still like the knives I have with it, nothing wrong with it at all!
Will I buy more A2 knives someday?..... Probably.
 
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Crag the Brewer said:
Will I buy more A2 knives someday?..... Probably.
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Me too :) Here is a couple:

i-s3WKMgp-X3.jpg


Many people use camping knives with almost no chrome at all. A2 has 5%, which is enough that you just need to keep your knife dry when packing it away.

Note that 3V has 7.5%. 3V does corrode. If you are worried about it, there are great fixed knife stainless steels, for example AEB-L.
 
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Christian bradfort said:
They are priced similar in USA, I'm from eu, where import taxes make all the diffrence, the one in 3v would cost me around 380eur give or take, the a2 300 eur!
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Lionsteel M5 in CPM-3V for 170€, ANV M73 in Sleipner for 210€ or even TRC South Pole in Elmax for 350€ would be my choices if I were you.

Not gonna lie to you - it is better deal...
 
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