The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
What are the other aspects of edge holding, hardness, wear resistance and what else?:thumbup:
I have a feeling we are going to see M-4.
Hardness, wear resistance, and toughness are the three components of edge holding (IMO).
Resistance to deformation, resistance to, well, wear, and resistance to breaking.
If the edge flattens, it's dull. If the edge wears off, it's dull. If the edge breaks off, same thing, you have a dull knife.
Rust resistance is also a factor in some environments.
Unfortunately "toughness" is as hard to define as "edge holding".
The best I can tell toughness is a combination of hardness, flexibility, and resistance to fracturing (breaking).
If the steel can actually hold its shape when you hit something hard, then great, but most of the time your thin piece of metal will move to accommodate the other hard object, and flex (ideal) bend (hopefully) or break (not good).
If the steel is harder, it will keep it's shape better, but will also be much more likely to break when pushed too far. If you make the steel soft and mushy then it will just bend over, taking less damage overall compared to chipping, but you loose your edge that much faster when actually cutting stuff.
While flexibility is important, it is also the most complicated aspect of toughness, and is affected by a wide variety of variables (alloy, hardness, heat treat, the weather, etc...)
(darn it, that was meant as a joke, but temperature plays a part too).
You can theoretically have steel that is hard, flexible, and bends rather than breaking. Finding steel like that is another thing. (http://www.bussecombat.com/)
Of course all these factors are affected by the type of steel chosen, so you have to pick your steel according to what you want it to do.
And keep in mind this is all just the observations of a hobbyist, none of it is written is stone.
Here's Joe Talmadge's take on the subject.
http://spyderco.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-15637.html
Okay guys, you forced me to do it...
The Military Wheel.
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Clockwise from top: 440V (a.k.a. S60V), CPM D2, S90V, BG-42, S30V and ATS-34.
Okay guys, you forced me to do it...
The Military Wheel.
![]()
Clockwise from top: 440V (a.k.a. S60V), CPM D2, S90V, BG-42, S30V and ATS-34.
You are asking the wrong guy there.
I have been carrying all but the ATS-34 to compare them. And yes, I do mean at the same time. For my uses, which are only normal if you are in construction or something similar, the S90V is pulling ahead. To rank them in the order I generally go to them on the job, I would say:
1) S90V
2) CPM D2
3) 440V (S60V)
4) BG-42
5) S30V
If I was carrying the ATS-34 as well, it would probably slide in ahead of the BG-42. The D2 and 440V are virtually tied, with the D2 seeing a little more use mostly because I have used another 440V blade in the past so I already know what to expect from it.