Critique my Folder Design, Please

J

JustAFleshWound

Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
741
Hello Folks, I designed a liner lock folder based on the Bk-11, and I would like help in refining it.
DSCN3929_zpsa120157f.jpg
(Sorry about the photograph of the screen rather than a screenshot, I can't connect to the internet with that computer.)
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
After much deliberation, I took the funky cutouts out, changed the backspacer, and added the scales.
DSCN3932_zps7d5f5240.jpg
I just realised I forgot to put the holes for the scale bolts in the clear view.
 
Just me but unless it's in a sheath it's going to chew a pocket up and also snag a lot when drawing it.
 
A flipper works better when in the closed position the tail is not so far to the rear in relation to where the pivot is located. Not saying it wouldn't work but the further forward you place the flipper tail in the closed position the better. This means that in the opened position it will sit further toward the rear also so you have to make adjustments and compromises to your design. Makes sense?

Otherwise I think its cool how you kept the Becker look.
 
I think that your lock bar is too close to the pivot. Does it have thumbstuds? Why not use those for the stops instead of the stop pin? Are you using a back spacer or standoffs?
 
I'm going to preface my comments by saying that I have never built a linerlock. My actual experience building liner- (or frame-) locking folders is nil.

That being said, the first thing I noticed is the angle in the lock-bar cut. When force is applied to the lock, it should be directed straight down the lock bar... which to me means...
  1. Straighten out the lock bar cut. Being a liner-lock, it will be hidden by a scale anyway, so any aesthetic value that you get from the cut the way you show it will be hidden. Straightening the cut should strengthen the bar.
  2. Cut the lock face perpendicular to the direction you want the force directed down the lock bar.
I tweaked your sketch to show what I'm talking about.
folder.jpg

I also agree with Chuck, that the lock face seems a bit close to the pivot... but I can see where that came from considering you're trying to fit such a wide blade into a narrower handle.

It would be cool to hear more from the experienced guys on the stop/pivot/lock layout.

Erin
 
Yes the lockbar is too close to the pivot. You won't have room for washers or bearings. Also your detent hole might be exposed in the open position which IMO looks bad.
 
raylaconico said:
A flipper works better when in the closed position the tail is not so far to the rear in relation to where the pivot is located. Not saying it wouldn't work but the further forward you place the flipper tail in the closed position the better. This means that in the opened position it will sit further toward the rear also so you have to make adjustments and compromises to your design. Makes sense? Yes sir! I'll see what I can do.

Otherwise I think its cool how you kept the Becker look.Thanks!
Click to expand...

Chuck Gedraitis Knives said:
I think that your lock bar is too close to the pivot. I'm happy to hear that. I thought that it looked a bit close, but I also thought a deeper cutout might be more secure. Does it have thumbstuds? Yes sir! Why not use those for the stops instead of the stop pin? I'm using them as a secondary stop pin in the open position. Are you using a back spacer or standoffs?I'm using a backspacer.
Click to expand...

Erin Burke said:
I'm going to preface my comments by saying that I have never built a linerlock. My actual experience building liner- (or frame-) locking folders is nil.

That being said, the first thing I noticed is the angle in the lock-bar cut. When force is applied to the lock, it should be directed straight down the lock bar... which to me means...
  1. Straighten out the lock bar cut. Being a liner-lock, it will be hidden by a scale anyway, so any aesthetic value that you get from the cut the way you show it will be hidden. Straightening the cut should strengthen the bar.
  2. Cut the lock face perpendicular to the direction you want the force directed down the lock bar.
I tweaked your sketch to show what I'm talking about.
View attachment 335250

I also agree with Chuck, that the lock face seems a bit close to the pivot... but I can see where that came from considering you're trying to fit such a wide blade into a narrower handle.

It would be cool to hear more from the experienced guys on the stop/pivot/lock layout.

Erin
Click to expand...
I'll see to it that all that stuff is fixed to the best of my understanding! :thumbup:

raylaconico said:
Yes the lockbar is too close to the pivot. You won't have room for washers or bearings. Also your detent hole might be exposed in the open position which IMO looks bad.
Click to expand...
I didn't think about that, I'll go check.


Thanks everybody! My replies are in blue, except for the ones that aren't. ;)
 
I suggest you make a model in plastic before you cut metal, I see some conflicts with spacers and the blade and there may be other issues that can be found and fixed quickly, the model then becomes your templete to mark your steel for holes and shaping. BTW the paper templete is glued to the plastic model for cut out.

cokemodel001.jpg


cokemodel003.jpg


cokemodel004.jpg
 
Patrickknives said:
I suggest you make a model in plastic before you cut metal, I see some conflicts with spacers and the blade and there may be other issues that can be found and fixed quickly, the model then becomes your templete to mark your steel for holes and shaping. BTW the paper templete is glued to the plastic model for cut out.

cokemodel001.jpg


cokemodel003.jpg


cokemodel004.jpg
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely do that!


What do you guys think? Is this a step forward or back?
DSCN3933_zps15324999.jpg
 
It looks very similar to the BK11 when the "Funky cutouts". Good choice in eliminating them.

As for the last change, I'm not a fan, personally I like knives (read: folders) that look stout (could be the angle of the pic)... but that's just me, it's your knife man! Make it to where YOU want it, never mind what guys like me think ;)

P.S. You could sneaker net the screenshots over to a 'net friendly machine
 
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theHobbyist said:
It looks very similar to the BK11 when the "Funky cutouts". Good choice in eliminating them.

As for the last change, I'm not a fan, personally I like knives (read: folders) that look stout (could be the angle of the pic)... but that's just me, it's your knife man! Make it to where YOU want it, never mind what guys like me think ;)

P.S. You could sneaker net the screenshots over to a 'net friendly machine
Click to expand...
I was actually trying to make it look like the bk11. ;) This new screen squishes everything; it's actually stouter than it looks. I really like stout looking folders too, and elegant folders but there's not much in the middle that I like. Not sure what you mean by sneaker net.
 
JustAFleshWound said:
I was actually trying to make it look like the bk11. ;) This new screen squishes everything; it's actually stouter than it looks. I really like stout looking folders too, and elegant folders but there's not much in the middle that I like. Not sure what you mean by sneaker net.
Click to expand...


Ahh then GREAT JOB lol... I always wondered what a BK 11 folder would look like lol. I ended up putting scales on my BK11, with out them it just felt funny.

Sneaker net, it's an old term can be taken a few ways, but the basics, use a disk... back then we used floppys.. now days we use USB drives lol.
 
This has evolved. I am no longer following the design of the bk-11. Now using 2-56 flat head cap screws and AKS 3/16 pivots.
 
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It's stll a take-off and because of that I'll be honest and tell you it looks kind of crappy ! Do your own design from scratch and I bet you will like it more and it may even look better. Sorry, Bud, but that's how it looks to me. Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
It's stll a take-off and because of that I'll be honest and tell you it looks kind of crappy ! Do your own design from scratch and I bet you will like it more and it may even look better. Sorry, Bud, but that's how it looks to me. Frank
Click to expand...

Well, that's somewhat disappointing. Considering this is my own design now. I'll see If I can change it. What sticks out to you as "crappy" the most? Thanks for the honest critique!
 
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If you were to reduce the wideth of the blade near the ricasso it would become more streamlined looking and even better for actual use. The shape it has while certainly one that can be used is not to functional . Remember, this is just my way of looking at this design. You could very easily say the same about some or all of my liner locking designs. You can see some of my work at customknifegallry.com Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
If you were to reduce the wideth of the blade near the ricasso it would become more streamlined looking and even better for actual use. The shape it has while certainly one that can be used is not to functional . Remember, this is just my way of looking at this design. You could very easily say the same about some or all of my liner locking designs. You can see some of my work at customknifegallry.com Frank
Click to expand...
I see your point. I'll get on that. First class work by the way! :thumbup:
 
I've got this buttonlock here. Perhaps it looks better? It is not finished yet of course. And I have not seen any wips on buttonlocks, so I'm not sure this is the correct form for one. But here it is. The blade length is 3.88"-ish.

 
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