Critique my newest piece!

S

spydercobenchmadekai

Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
2,466
I would like some feedback on my newest completed knife. I figured that you (the pro knifemakers) might be able to offer the best advice.

Blade material is 01 carbon steel, HT done by me. HRC should be about 59.
Handle material is Russian Olive. It is from trees cut near our property.

Specs:
Blade length: 4in.
Cutting edge: 3.5in.
Blade thickness: 1/8in.
Handle length: 4 in.
Overall length: 8in.
Handle thickness: 1/2in.

Pictures:




Let me know what you think!
 
I think overall it is a good looking knife. Size is right, proportions are about right. I would say as far as the handle goes, use three pins instead of four, they look like they're not quite straight (but being straight isn't required pin-manship...har har). The wood looks like it has split along the pin lines anyway....so I would rehandle with different wood. The wood that covers the guard, and the guard, should be rounded off a bit more I think. And for the blade, add more taper (thinner towards the tip in width). Maybe start the spine drop a little bit further back too? It looks like you were going for a convex type of grind towards the edge, but I think the knife would be better served with a full flat grind as well.

Not bad!!!
 
looks like it will not cut well, that extremely round convex edge looks like the actual final edge angle is between 30 and 40 degrees. Try a flat grind and not sharpening on a slack belt

-Page
 
Same sentiments as above, overall shape and blade thickness look good. Avoid knots in wood... they are a starting point for cracks.
 
I think the other guys already pointed out the main things. Try making a Jig and putting a flat grind on your next blade. Also, there are some techniques for shaping handles that will give you a more uniform shape.

I think it's amazing however considering your young age, and I'm guessing this is one of your first knives? Keep trying, the next one will be better. Keep studying, you can skip a lot of the trial by error mistakes by learning from various sources - and look for some hands on instruction. Forums and tutorials are nice, but nothing beats working with an experienced craftsman.
 
Thanks for the comments!

I need to buy a higher-end belt sander. The one I have is a $35 Chinese cheapo. It has worked so far, but the belt tension is not adjustable. (Hence the slack belt.) Any recommendations on brand/model? Budget is $150-.

I will try to make the grind higher next time. I agree--the bevel is a little drastic. A flat grind is impossible with the current setup, see the point above.

Good point about not putting the pins in a line. For those that commented about knots, I used those pieces on purpose, as I think that they add "character."

For those that wondered, this is my 6th completed knife. (3 of the others were made from old Sawzall blades.) I have ground 2 other blades--they've been heat treated and are awating handles.

Thanks again!
 
On your budget I'd go with the Craftsman 2x42 (you can sometimes find them on craigslist) and put a ceramic glass platen on it from usa knifemaker he tells you how to mount it easily on there. Also if you're using a wood cut down from your property if it's not dried properly there's a chance it can shift on you over time. Also if you can't get the grind you want on the grinder you currently have you can always use files and draw file it.
 
Fletch Helical said:
On your budget I'd go with the Craftsman 2x42 (you can sometimes find them on craigslist) and put a ceramic glass platen on it from usa knifemaker he tells you how to mount it easily on there. Also if you're using a wood cut down from your property if it's not dried properly there's a chance it can shift on you over time. Also if you can't get the grind you want on the grinder you currently have you can always use files and draw file it.
Click to expand...

I'll keep an eye out for the Craftsman. What do you guys think of Kalamazoo?

The wood is not stabilized, but it is already very dry, so I don't think that it will shrink much, if any.

Use files? No way! I've used power tools, I'll never go back to hand tools!
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
I'll keep an eye out for the Craftsman. What do you guys think of Kalamazoo?

The wood is not stabilized, but it is already very dry, so I don't think that it will shrink much, if any.

Use files? No way! I've used power tools, I'll never go back to hand tools!
Click to expand...

You have not used power tools well, Grasshopper. Try using files for your bevel. It will be slower, but more precise. The files will give you what a good grinder will, just a lot slower. This will benefit you by training your eye and hand. You will make better knives

-Page
 
I'm curious what a $35 Chinese grinder looks like. What size belts does it use, and where did it come from? (other than China)

I've never seen a grinder that doesn't have tracking and tension. Also, what kind of belts are you using?

I like the knife quite a bit. The only thing I really don't like is the wood tabs on the guard. Get rid of those and an improved bevel, then you've got a good knife. ;)
 
sunshadow said:
You have not used power tools well, Grasshopper. Try using files for your bevel. It will be slower, but more precise. The files will give you what a good grinder will, just a lot slower. This will benefit you by training your eye and hand. You will make better knives

-Page
Click to expand...

Page is giving you excellent advice here... Power tools are great, but used for making the wrong shape all they do is make it wrong faster... You need to learn blade geometry and how to achieve it with hand tools first. I guarantee it will make transitioning from files to powertools much easier. Especially if you are looking for a gawd-awful fast belt speed machine like the Craftsman... It is a good starter, but with it you can make a mistake fast. Remember you can always take more off, but you can't put it back on. And quality files will actually remove metal probably about as fast as your Chinese grinder. While learning it will be tempting to stop as soon as it starts to look like a knife and look like it could cut something. We have all been there, but do it like a supermodel... think thin... Thin wins.

Knots may seem to add 'character,' but my advice would instead be to look for burls and crotch wood instead. You can google how to look for this type of wood. It will have grain that has twisted and contorted, and IMHO it has way more character and doesn't present the splitting problem. Properly harvested wood also takes a long time to be truly dry and ready for knife handles. Years in some cases. There is no way around this, nature must take its course. If the wood was harvested in the last year, I will bet it is still 'green' and will dry, warp, split and crack.

My bet is you also over-peened your brass pins putting stress on the wood as well. No worries, that is a feel thing and also has to be learned. I teach Defensive Tactics and we have an old adage that says it takes 3000 repetitions for something to become muscle memory. Until then, you are developing a 'feel' for things.


You have joined up here and sought the advice of the forum so now you know what you need to do to improve. That's a good step to take. And like G.I. Joe says, 'knowing is half the battle.' :single_eye:
 
use files and use more olive wood.
There's never enough olive wood.
Don't know about the cracking but I like the knot as well
 
Most of the good advice needed has been given.

I will add that the handle should NOT follow down onto the guard. It should go straight along its lower line to the ricasso. Those tips sticking down like you made them are nearly impossible to sand and shape well, and will break off almost immediately in use.

You can get away with that shape in Micarta and G-10 to some degree, but in wood...especially a strong grained wood....it will split off along the grain line the first time it gets bumped hard.
 
Strigamort said:
I'm curious what a $35 Chinese grinder looks like. What size belts does it use, and where did it come from? (other than China)

I've never seen a grinder that doesn't have tracking and tension. Also, what kind of belts are you using?

I like the knife quite a bit. The only thing I really don't like is the wood tabs on the guard. Get rid of those and an improved bevel, then you've got a good knife. ;)
Click to expand...

It has belt tracking but not belt tension.



LucyCustomKnives said:
Page is giving you excellent advice here... Power tools are great, but used for making the wrong shape all they do is make it wrong faster... You need to learn blade geometry and how to achieve it with hand tools first. I guarantee it will make transitioning from files to powertools much easier. Especially if you are looking for a gawd-awful fast belt speed machine like the Craftsman... It is a good starter, but with it you can make a mistake fast. Remember you can always take more off, but you can't put it back on. And quality files will actually remove metal probably about as fast as your Chinese grinder. While learning it will be tempting to stop as soon as it starts to look like a knife and look like it could cut something. We have all been there, but do it like a supermodel... think thin... Thin wins.

Knots may seem to add 'character,' but my advice would instead be to look for burls and crotch wood instead. You can google how to look for this type of wood. It will have grain that has twisted and contorted, and IMHO it has way more character and doesn't present the splitting problem. Properly harvested wood also takes a long time to be truly dry and ready for knife handles. Years in some cases. There is no way around this, nature must take its course. If the wood was harvested in the last year, I will bet it is still 'green' and will dry, warp, split and crack.

My bet is you also over-peened your brass pins putting stress on the wood as well. No worries, that is a feel thing and also has to be learned. I teach Defensive Tactics and we have an old adage that says it takes 3000 repetitions for something to become muscle memory. Until then, you are developing a 'feel' for things.


You have joined up here and sought the advice of the forum so now you know what you need to do to improve. That's a good step to take. And like G.I. Joe says, 'knowing is half the battle.' :single_eye:
Click to expand...

I don't have any new metal files--most of my dad's are worn down. After reading reviews, it seems like I want a 1x42 belt grinder. It should be powerful, but not as fast as some.

Suggestions? Budget could go up to maybe $300.

I will keep an eye out for burls. I also have a shipment of Micarta coming soon. The trees were dead for at least 2 years before being cut, and they have dried for another year after that.

Yes, I probably did over-peen the rivets. My bad.

Hengelo_77 said:
use files and use more olive wood.
There's never enough olive wood.
Don't know about the cracking but I like the knot as well
Click to expand...

It is olive wood.;) But it is actually "Russian Olive," which is now considered an invasive species.

bladsmth said:
Most of the good advice needed has been given.

I will add that the handle should NOT follow down onto the guard. It should go straight along its lower line to the ricasso. Those tips sticking down like you made them are nearly impossible to sand and shape well, and will break off almost immediately in use.

You can get away with that shape in Micarta and G-10 to some degree, but in wood...especially a strong grained wood....it will split off along the grain line the first time it gets bumped hard.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. I will avoid leaving material on the guard next time.
 
On the inside (belt area) of the machine it might have a bolt or nut that can be loosened to move the whole tracking wheel/tracking assembly back. That will tighten up your belt. At least that's how it works on my Delta 1x30 (very close in design). If not, well, I tried. :)
 
I would make a angle iron jig for grinding bevels, all i did for mine was take a blank and take two mini c clamps and clamp it to the angle iron. You might get better results from it, did for me anyway
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
It has belt tracking but not belt tension.





I don't have any new metal files--most of my dad's are worn down. After reading reviews, it seems like I want a 1x42 belt grinder. It should be powerful, but not as fast as some.

Suggestions? Budget could go up to maybe $300.

I will keep an eye out for burls. I also have a shipment of Micarta coming soon. The trees were dead for at least 2 years before being cut, and they have dried for another year after that.

Yes, I probably did over-peen the rivets. My bad.



It is olive wood.;) But it is actually "Russian Olive," which is now considered an invasive species.



Ok, thanks. I will avoid leaving material on the guard next time.
Click to expand...

You need to adjust the platen so the belt runs over the flat steel, rather than having a gap. There should be a bolt that allows the adjustment, usually an Allen head bolt.
 
Willie71 said:
You need to adjust the platen so the belt runs over the flat steel, rather than having a gap. There should be a bolt that allows the adjustment, usually an Allen head bolt.
Click to expand...

Good catch. There are two button head allen bolts that you loosen,then you push the platen so that it pushes on the belt just a hair.

I was getting horrible results using the little grinder. Getting it set up to run the best it can made a sizeable difference.
 
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