Critique my newest piece!

Yes and there is some what of a tension adjustment. It has the bolt mentioned earlier only loosen it slightly and pivot the bracket check tracking. On the one turbodog10 got we had to play with it a lot before we could get it to track to both sides of the platten.
 
In the photo it looks like the platten may be bent slightly. Appears to be closer to yhe belt at bottom than top. If so try and get it straight. Just go slow and let the grinder do the work you can grind a blade on this grinder just fine.
 
Because the belts are so loose, they have made it impossible to have the paten within 1/4 inch of the belt. They vibrate, and cut into the paten.

I will try to adjust the paten closer, and I will see if it is possible to tighten the belt. Strigamort: The paten should "push on the belt"? Could you post a picture? Thanks!
 
Since Photobucket app took a crap I've been having a lot of trouble posting pics. :(

Assuming the platen is straight (square with the belt, as well as vertically), loosen the two bolts that hold it in place then slide the platen out until it touches the belt. I have mine set *maybe* 1/16" further out after touching. I don't think using the platen as a means to tighten the slack is a good idea. If you take a pic of the inside of the frame where the tracking wheel is, I can probably tell you if your machine is set up to adjust tension. It's really just a matter of loosening the bolt that holds the wheel/tracking mechanism and rocking it back a little, then checking for good tracking.

Took me forever to get this pic uploaded. I was fairly convinced that I couldn't get a flat grind using the little grinder, but with the machine dialed in I can.

The sawzall blade is just for reference.

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A well set up 2" belt would be seriously sweet, but for now at least I know that I can get a flat grind with some effort.
 
Its just out of view in the photo you posted below the tracking assembly. There is a green piece of steel that is not part of the frame. The Axel shaft of the tracking wheel runs through it. At the bottom there is a bolt. The nut is on the inside by the tracking wheel. Look close and you will see a spring also. Lossen the bolt just a little and rotate the green steel piece to change tension on belt.
 
Because the belts are so loose, they have made it impossible to have the paten within 1/4 inch of the belt. They vibrate, and cut into the paten.

I will try to adjust the paten closer, and I will see if it is possible to tighten the belt. Strigamort: The paten should "push on the belt"? Could you post a picture? Thanks!

Just to clarify, the flat platen is the piece of metal behind the belt. I can see how the belt slap could grind into the work rest if it were too close but the belts shouldn't grind into the platen as long as it is square to the belt. Bring the flat platen up to the belt and this should cure most of your "slack" issues other than some minor belt bunching at the top of the grind if you apply too much pressure.

With some care you can grind a decent blade with that grinder and I'm seeing people that actually prefer that machine for sharpening.

Though far from my best even in my short time at the hobby. This knife was ground on a HF 1x30.
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Good luck,
Chris
 
Looking back at your design and the criticism you got for the handle scales following the ricasso. I see now that you were following the Kephart design pretty close.
Jim
 
Thanks for the input, all! I finally figured out how to adjust the tension, so I've got that covered. So next time:

I won't put the pins in a straight line
I won't leave as much (if any) wood on the guard
I will try to make the grind higher, with help from the newly tightened belt
I will avoid knots in wood for the most part

Was there anything else?
 
Personally, I think the Kephart blade style is pretty unattractive but after doing some studying recently, I think you've got a pretty good Kephart blade here. I can definitely see where some of what your getting criticism for here are actually design cues in a correct Kephart knife. Here is a picture my uncle sent me about Kephart knives.

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That said, I am actually in the process of making my own Kephart to GIVE (not sell) to my uncle as he is a real bushcrafter and one of the main guys that got me interested in knife making. This is my 4th knife and I did all the grinding on a little HF 1x30 with Jim's angle pro mod that can be partially seen in this picture. I plan on putting Boisdarc handles on this guy with mosaic pins.

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and this is irrelevant but I'm anxious to show off my first filing work I did night before last on the spine of this Kephart.

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Can we get a little more information on "Jim's angle pro". Sorry to interrupt thread. Been looking for something for my 1x30 for flat grinds.
You can pm or start another thread not to interrupt spyder's anymore. Thx
 
Great job, I really like it. I use the Harbor Freight belt sander two as I am still in the beginning stages of being a knifemaker (not sure when I will no longer be a beginner. 15-20 knives?). Good basic design.
 
Can we get a little more information on "Jim's angle pro". Sorry to interrupt thread. Been looking for something for my 1x30 for flat grinds.
You can pm or start another thread not to interrupt spyder's anymore. Thx

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1137773-Hf-1-quot-x-30-quot-grinder-story

It's a closed thread but that gives you all you need to know about Jim's mod of the HF 1x30. I am really surprised how many guys are using these things on here. I made my first 3 knives on Jim's Angle Pro grinders which are (arguably) improved KMG 2x72 grinders and I really haven't been that sad to use this little guy on this batch. Yes, it's definitely slower and the tracking sucks pretty bad, but I'm getting good results with it.
 
Thanks for the new comments! I will see about making a jig of some sort. Nad nice knife, turbodog10! I didn't really follow any particular design, but I see the similarity to the Kepharts. Thanks!
 
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