Critique please

K

kwakn

Joined
Oct 17, 2009
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I haven't ALWAYS been compulsive and obsessive. I just wanted a new knife for my 50th birthday. I guess I could have commissioned a custom but now I want to try to make it (er...finish it) myself. I was speaking with a client/friend who told me about their new adventure into making tomahawks. We're now collaborating on making a knife.

Here's my design and a few details. I'm looking for advice on what to change (or keep).

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Some details:
3v, outsourced water jet, outsourced HT, we grind, file, sand, sharpen and finish. Available tools: bench grinder, belt sander, files, sandpaper, paper wheels (still need to buy those)

The handle will be wrapped Japanese style but holes drilled for wood or other handle material if desired. Flat grind on the face transitioning to convex for the tip. Swedge on top. Hole sizes have yet to be determined.

Thoughts appreciated.
 

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What is reasoning for bevel on spine? Is it decorative or functional? Just asking out of curiosity.

del
 
This conception is supposed to be form and function. Without one, the other matters not. It enhances the overall aesthetics of the blade and reduces weight. I'm seeking input to see if I've achieved that, what might be wrong that detracts from the concept and how hard/easy it will be to pull off.
 
Looks like you have a real handle on grinding and filing. That pattern will be a very difficult one to do. I hope you have the skill, the time, and the equipment for something so involved. I will love to see what you end up with on this one. My truthfull suggestion is to start off with a more simple styled knife. Frank
 
I love the design. Reminds me of a Lum tanto I use to own. If you know how to grind, it shouldn't be too much trouble to pull that one off. I'd say there's nothing wrong with that design at all.

--nathan
 
looks sweet, my only concern would be that the handle may be too thin, but if your gonna wrap it in para cord or the like it should be o.k
 
I like the profile. I feel the blade cross section should taper towards the tip, otherwise the end will be thick, heavy and clunky (though very tough - if that's your thing).
 
Nebulae,
Thanks. One of my overall objectives was to have a unitype design to support scales or Tsukamaki allowing for design options. Tsukamaki will thicken the handle, scales will not. I'll have to give that some more thought.
 
Nathan,
I have a mock-up in wood and it IS thick. Clunky? will ultimately be in the eye of the (be)holder but I will taper in wood and play with handle geometry based on Nebulae's comments.

Any thoughts about using 1/4 stock, balance points, overall weight...?
 
Thank you all for your thoughts. I am not a knife maker. I'm a tinkerer with a little imagination. Not afraid to make mistakes but not too shy about asking for advice to keep the mistakes to a minimum. Last year's project was a bench for the mud room made of reclaimed yellow pine barn timbers. The year before that, a mantle for my fireplacle. This year it just happens to be a knife and I'm trying to get input from those-who-know.

Much appreciated.
 
You say form follows function.........
I'm curious as to what your intended function for this knife is to be.....
What will you be using it for?;)
Mace
 
I like the asthetics of your alternate design. Putting a few holes in the tang would help reduce the weight without affecting function.
 
I was going to say Lum, too..... I like the design. This would be a tough one for a beginner to start with.

IMGP3237.jpg
 
Mace said:
You say form follows function.........
I'm curious as to what your intended function for this knife is to be.....
What will you be using it for?;)
Mace
Click to expand...

That is a good question. Knowing what you will be using it for will help a lot.

About the stock thickness:
I made a medium sized camp knife (4.5" blade) from .25" CPM D2. I didn't really want it that thick to begin with, but that's the stock that was available. I did all I could to improve cutting performance. I gave the (fairly broad) blade a full flat grind and distal taper. Edge thickness is only .015". It is very sharp, but it is terrible for cutting materials that don't flex out of the way (like a potato or onion). It is also kinda heavy.

You don't need that extra thickness for durability on a knife as short as yours. I took a ten-inch cleaver/santoku in .16" 3V to various trees and 2x4s. It handled it with aplomb, even though it was never designed for that type of use/abuse.

Think carefully about why you want 1/4" stock. A knife that thick will never be a good slicer.

Phillip
 
KWAKN excellent graffic design I wish I had some one to teach me how to draw them out like that. I draw by hand and not nearly as good as most 14 year olds lol but seriously. I m a new knife maker and I know your asking for ideas and help. I think its to tuff with limited tools my grinds are lacking and I have a great grinder but still need a larger tool rest and better jig. Ive done over 50 knives and sv3 is tuff stuff from what ive been told. I think if you straighten out the knife it would be alot easier. I really like the design but skill level needed is more than I could chew.
 
I had the exact same thought Nathan... I just sold my Spyderco Lum Tanto with very similar design.

silver_pilate said:
I love the design. Reminds me of a Lum tanto I use to own. If you know how to grind, it shouldn't be too much trouble to pull that one off. I'd say there's nothing wrong with that design at all.

--nathan
Click to expand...
 
We can debate what comes first (function or form) but I think we can all agree the two are out of balance here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684944

My objective is equal footing for both given there will always be tradeoffs. I'll try to offer some specifics as to function.
1. the blade should remain sharp while
-wittling around the campfire,
-lopping off a small branch to roast marshmallows,
-cutting a piece of rope to hang a rain fly,
-tearing down a cardboard box, or sharpening a pencil,
-slicing some cheese and apples on occasion (to go with crackers and wine of course),
-attachable to my backpack within easy reach,
-a deterrant should that unfortunate situation arise. (no wisecracks about showing up with a knife to a gunfight.:eek:).

I would like to not have to "baby" it (other than care to prevent rust) or worry about chipping a nice big half-moon out of it. (been there/done that/got the t-shirt:grumpy:)

2. Some things I do not expect.
-It will not be a primary kithen utensil. Although it may be called upon in a pinch.
-It will not be put to use as an axe but if the axe is 'over there' and I need a few pieces of kindling, I would like to know that kinda duty wont end up ruining my day.

Keep those cards and letters coming. This is all good stuff.
 
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