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Critique please
- Thread starter kwakn
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
- Messages
- 3,953
I'd recommend making a sen to help with the shaping of the cutting edge. Draw filing and a sen should make fairly short work of this design.
Design notes, you say it'll be used for more camping outdoor type of work. I'd recomment putting more swell in the center of the handle, removing some swell from the butt (you'll get hand cramps from the strain on the pinky and ring fingers) and add a little bit of a "hook" to the bottom of the butt for retention if you do have to swing it. I appreciate the aesthetics of the swedge on the spine but for general camping you may want a bit more meat on the spine to allow batoning through wood or for mass when splitting kindling.
Love the design and my comments are purely based on my design principles.
Design notes, you say it'll be used for more camping outdoor type of work. I'd recomment putting more swell in the center of the handle, removing some swell from the butt (you'll get hand cramps from the strain on the pinky and ring fingers) and add a little bit of a "hook" to the bottom of the butt for retention if you do have to swing it. I appreciate the aesthetics of the swedge on the spine but for general camping you may want a bit more meat on the spine to allow batoning through wood or for mass when splitting kindling.
Love the design and my comments are purely based on my design principles.
Hi Will,
I appreciate the thought put into your post. I used a device like the sen (didn't know what it was called) in a prior life. A tool and die maker was a fellow skier and he showed me a device he used to sharpen skis. At the time, I found it took too much material but for the application described, I clearly see the value.
I'm doing mock ups in wood with different handle wrap configs. Thicker was more comfortable but throws off the lines (imo). I agree with you that for extended use, this may not be the best design. To that end I was shooting for a unitype handle that will allow for tsukamaki or cord wrap with varying underlayment thicknesses or more ergo shaped scales. This may be one of those trade-off/compromise areas but I will go as thick as possible. That concern came up more than once.
If I can achieve all other design objectives and not be able to baton/split a 2" dried out, foot long piece of tree limb, I may just have to get up off my lazy rump and go get the darn axe. I can live with that and appreciate being told up front the design won't support the app. As Dirty Harry once said: "A man's got to know his limitations."
I appreciate the thought put into your post. I used a device like the sen (didn't know what it was called) in a prior life. A tool and die maker was a fellow skier and he showed me a device he used to sharpen skis. At the time, I found it took too much material but for the application described, I clearly see the value.
I'm doing mock ups in wood with different handle wrap configs. Thicker was more comfortable but throws off the lines (imo). I agree with you that for extended use, this may not be the best design. To that end I was shooting for a unitype handle that will allow for tsukamaki or cord wrap with varying underlayment thicknesses or more ergo shaped scales. This may be one of those trade-off/compromise areas but I will go as thick as possible. That concern came up more than once.
If I can achieve all other design objectives and not be able to baton/split a 2" dried out, foot long piece of tree limb, I may just have to get up off my lazy rump and go get the darn axe. I can live with that and appreciate being told up front the design won't support the app. As Dirty Harry once said: "A man's got to know his limitations."
Hellgap,
google free drawing software. I did a quick test on this site
http://www.litha-paint.com/demo.html and was able to replicate what I did in Powerpoint.
My drawing is just a series of small straight lines linked together and circles where you want them. Each time you stop and start you create edit points along that line that you tweak up/down/left/right to get curves.
Break your work up into blade spine, blade edge, handle spine, handle bottom. You'll then have templates to adjust to your heart's content.
google free drawing software. I did a quick test on this site
http://www.litha-paint.com/demo.html and was able to replicate what I did in Powerpoint.
My drawing is just a series of small straight lines linked together and circles where you want them. Each time you stop and start you create edit points along that line that you tweak up/down/left/right to get curves.
Break your work up into blade spine, blade edge, handle spine, handle bottom. You'll then have templates to adjust to your heart's content.
Cool this will work. I wasn't sure so I didn't go into detail.
I attached a word doc. If you open it and right click on the line that make up the blade edge for example, you will get a menu. Click "edit points". You'll then see a series of points along the legth of the blade. Point to one, hold down your left mouse button and drag you mouse. The "right click" menu also allows adding and deleting points. Experiment and play.
I attached a word doc. If you open it and right click on the line that make up the blade edge for example, you will get a menu. Click "edit points". You'll then see a series of points along the legth of the blade. Point to one, hold down your left mouse button and drag you mouse. The "right click" menu also allows adding and deleting points. Experiment and play.
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- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 650
I like the design but second the suggestion of using thinner stock. For reference, my Spyderco Lum tanto measures .174" and a similar sized flat ground Busse measures .267" including coating. The Lum seems sturdy and is nice to use but the Busse really does feel like a sharpened pry-bar.
Best of luck on the project!
Dave
Best of luck on the project!
Dave
