crk fixed blade toughness

Hello All,

This is my first ever post! First step is always the hardest or something like that..

I have the Reeve Ubejane skinner and Shadow III. I have found them to be dependable tools in the field. I used the skinner almost everyday for 4 months working in safari lodges for a whole range of tasks from dressing game, food prep, cutting rubber piping, shelter construction and many other random tasks- even slicing french cheese for fussy camp guests, it excelled.

Apart from a few issues with the sheath design (which doesn't reflect 'toughness' of the blade anyway) the skinner did everything I asked it to, I didn't hammer it into anything with a mallet, but thats not what i use my knives for.

My Shadow III has also been used for making feather sticks, batoning smallish fire wood and general camp tasks, also held up very well and I would have no problems calling it a tough little fixed blade.

My only concern would be the edge retention which is somewhat lacking compared to my other main use fixed blade a fallkniven NL4 (one of the best performing knives I have ever owned), but the compromise is ease of field sharpening etc so it goes both ways.

I'de say buy one and try it out for yourself, I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
 
Well I got a good deal on a Swamp rat Ratmandu, so no crk fixed blade for now, but there will undoubtedly be one in my collection sometime. Thanks for the replies from everyone, I really appreciate it.
 
I am a HUGE fan of the Chris Reeve One-Piece Knives. I currently have a Shadow 1, Tanto 1, Shadow 3, Shadow 4, Spearpoint Knonka, Mark IV, and I am ordering a Mountaineer 2. I have used the Shadow 3 for food prep, cutting wood, and pretty much anything else you would want to use a small knife for. It rides high and tight in its sheath. It was my first Chris Reeve knife and is one of my favorites. It was a small investment compared to what the others cost, so if anyone is thinking of one, its a good place to start. I used the Tanto 1 to clear my deer stand, and it easily cut through large saplings, and I am sure it would cut firewood. I just received my Shadow 1, which I think would be even better for the job. I have purchased them over several years. I am not a collector, I put them to use. I have not used the others yet, but with my past experience with the others, I am sure they would not let me down. I have sceen knife tests done. NO knife will stand up well as a prybar, thats why prybars were invented. They are designed to chop or cut various items and ALL of these knives will do it well. If anyone has any questions, I will be glad to reply, I am new to this site, so be patient. : )
 
I have several Chris Reeve One Piece Knives. A Shadow I, Tanto I, Shadow III, Shadow IV, Mountaineer II, Spearpoint Knonka, & Mountaineer II. If they were cheaply made, I would not have spent the aprox $2000 these cost. I have used the Shadow III, it was my first and it is a great everyday knife. I used the Tanto I to clear my deer blind cutting through large saplings with ease. Yes, I USE THEM. I am not a collector, but I appreciate fine knives and his are first rate. To me, the Shadow IV, Mountaineer II & the Mark IV are the best all around size available. The are big enough for big jobs like cutting wood for fire and splitting small pieces. There are not too big for food prep, and would clean game nicely. The only one I bought used was my Shadow IV from ebay for $170. It is in excellent condition, still has factory edge, I touched it up on my ceramic sharpener and it easily shaves hair. I plan to use this one extensively. I liked the style or the sheath and design of my newly accquired Mountaineer II and plan to use it this hunting season. As for toughness, I believe them to be first rate. I would not hesitate to go into a lifethreatening situation with one, I would certainly feel I have the best. I have seen videos on u-tube and have seen them beat on the knives, and when they break, they say how "junky: they are. First, the idiot is banging on it with a 3lb sledgehammer for what seems like an eternity. As mentioned above in a post, the serations are a weak point, and thats where it broke. Any knife of good quality will break at some point when used as a prybar. If you want one that bends into an "L", go and buy a knife from pakaistan or india. As for the hockey mask he wears when banging on these knives, its not for protection, its so no one recognizes who in there right mind would bang on a knife costing hundreds of dollars with a sledgehammer ? As for normal wear and tear, making camp, preparing food, or that sudden survival situation you may find yourself in, I know they will hold up.
 
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I have to agree with nyefmaker. I saw the video and he was even banging the knife at an angle with the sledge hammer. seems like he was trying to break it. Well guess what you can break just about anything. The knives are meant to be used and used hard . I don't think there is a maker out there who will cover abuse.

Shike
 
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While Noss's work is very interesting, it has little relevance to daily life. Watching him destroy knives is similar to watching the shocking videos on extreme tv.

The one piece line up is beautifully executed like all CRK. You'd be hard pressed to find a better deal anywhere. I doubt you'd be able to break the knife without the assitance of vises, hammers, etc. Any knife will break.
 
Like CRK has said
"(Our knives are cutting tools, they are not pry bars.)"
But you cannot argue the fact that it's impressive to see the Busse and Scrapyard knives go through so much.
On a partially related note, Busse and CRK have replaced both those knives that Noss broke.
Busse makes beautiful knives, so does CRK. Noss does crazy stuff to knives. All the knives he tested cut very well, they just didn't take well to getting the crap knocked out of them.
In the end, for 99% of the population, a CRK fixed knife will be more than tough enough.
 
I've been using knives for over 40 years. Camping/hiking for about the same. While I'm more inclined to use a hatchet, I can see the value of batoning with a knife. That's about the closest to abuse I would get. Even then I'm going to baton with a piece of wood. I have no doubt my CRKs will last me and my son a lifetime of normal use.

Those that have moved away from CRK's because of the "destruction" tests don't know what they are missing. All mine cut great. Are more than heavy duty enough for what a knife is designed for. Fit and finish have all been excellent. They make great knives.
 
Hello all. I think I may have posted on this forum once, but I'd love to get a CR one piece knife! I have a couple Swamp Rats and Scrap Yards which I'm sure will take tons of abuse. In my (limited) experience I've only batoned with wood. Specifically, I have a Cold Steel SRK that I used to split wood a lot, and had no problems with it. I'm confident that CR one piece knives would be just fine when batoned with wood. Even a differentially hardened Swamp Rat M6 broke when it was batoned with a metal wrench. Now, being an engineering student with a few materials classes under my belt, it is my understanding that when you start hitting two fairly hard pieces of metal together, you're just asking for trouble. Why else do you think hammer heads are not supposed to be struck against each other? Anyway, I've seen the concern of some on this forum and really think that (as said by Mr. Clean) for "for 99% of the population, a CRK fixed knife will be more than tough enough." I just wish I was done with college so I had more spending cash to get a CRK!
 
Many years ago I made a stock removal drop point hunter for a friend, on a hunting trip he killed a buck and we had to splint the pelvic bone. Just out of curiosity I told him to go ahead and baton the spine with a steel mallet. The job went uneventful with no damage whatsoever, but the hits were directly straight down on the spine. I am sure that if it would have been done at an angle and while twisting as on the video, the knife would have been broken also. Only a knife that has been differentially tempered might survive that kind of abuse. Or a pry bar shaped like a knife:eek::D
A knife is for cutting and some chopping, if you want to pry use a prybar. There can be a compromise, but it won't cut as good as it could and it won't pry as good either.

Shike
 
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