Crosscut Saw Thread

Well I don’t have anything to contribute except that I now have the itch and am on the hunt for a single man buck saw. Pretty sweet pics here. Thanks all for sharing of pics and knowledge.
 
Miller '72 said:
I cleaned this chopped saw and will have it ready for bucking firewood. For now, its on the wall in our sun porch till i get to her............
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I took a 66" #325 Simonds and chopped it to 48" for a customer. Still long enough to double buck with and a very light carry. At that length, the slim belly 325 is still stiff enough for single bucking though it goes a little slower.

Have lots of pics, but can't seem to easily post them here.
 
Trying Postimages .

Here's the docked saw and a close up of the teeth with the bridges removed.

IMG-0572-2.jpg

IMG-0604-2.jpg
 
trailtime said:
Trying Postimages .

Here's the docked saw and a close up of the teeth with the bridges removed.

IMG-0572-2.jpg

IMG-0604-2.jpg
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That's the ticket! Gorgeous!!
Looks like 6' down to 4'. Look at those rakers! Gullets smooth and clean! Just gorgeous!!

I use postimage as well. Becomes quite easy and smooth after posting a few times.
 
Miller '72 said:
What do you use, how are you chopping/cutting so cleanly the bridge pieces from the ends?

I have found shortened saws, good and bad cuts, but not yet shortened one myself.
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Hacksaw, then smooth it with a mill file. Too cold in the garage to use an angle grinder and those things are messy indoors.

I always keep the end pieces to use for donor teeth and rakers when I weld up saws with missing parts. Makes them a bit of a Frankensaw.
 
trailtime said:
Hacksaw, then smooth it with a mill file. Too cold in the garage to use an angle grinder and those things are messy indoors.

I always keep the end pieces to use for donor teeth and rakers when I weld up saws with missing parts. Makes them a bit of a Frankensaw.
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Completely understand the cold garage shop effect on everything.

Thank you for sharing your how to methods depending on the season.
I figured i would just use a hack saw when the time and project present itself.
I have not attempted any welding but i know i will keep teeth just for that reason, thinking that some day i will, might, maybe 😉

Thank you again for sharing such fantastic work and a beauty saw!

🪚🪓😎
 
rjdankert said:
I see a light-colored wood handle with four silver-colored screws (one has an Atkins medallion head) and a Tuttle tooth pattern blade. Based on that here is a possibility:

AZ8WxRd.jpg

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Bob
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Thanks!! I couldn’t find a rounded handle with my limited search skills.
We also had a 2 man crosscut & one like this with a handle on the end. They were my Great grand fathers. (Who I knew) 3 generations of things + mine = regrettable garage sale.
I’m going to ask around and find a reputable sharpener in the area. I have a chainsaw, but I’m not in that big a hurry.
 
rjdankert said:
Feb 24, 2023
"Trail crew using axes and crosscut saws to clear storm damage. Traditional tool use in Wilderness."


Bob
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Note the octagon handle and full banana grind.
Octagon%20and%20full%20banana.png


Another full banana grind.
Another%20full%20banana.png


I've been a big proponent of full or half banana grinds as is dictated by the shape of the cheeks. I've seen a lot of people on other websites posting photos of their 'fully restored axe' which has only the minimal radial grind on it. You can tell it won't cut worth a darn. And when that person calls it 'fully restored' you know right away that they haven't got any experience using axes or the slightest clue what 'fully restored' would mean.

These Forest Service folks and trail maintenance crews work an axe hard. They know what a useful axe looks like.

I'll also note that a semi-sharp axe won't peel bark like that ranger is doing. Try it for yourself. You'll see.
 
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Square_peg said:
Note the octagon handle and full banana grind.

Another full banana grind.
I've been a big proponent of full or half banana grinds as is dictated by the shape of the cheeks. I've seen a lot of people on other websites posting photos of their 'fully restored axe' which has only the minimal radial grind on it. You can tell it won't cut worth a darn. And when that person calls it 'fully restored' you know right away that they haven't got any experience using axes or the slightest clue what 'fully restored' would mean.

These Forest Service folks and trail maintenance crews work an axe hard. They know what a useful axe looks like.

I'll also note that a semi-sharp axe won't peel bark like that ranger is doing. Try it for yourself. You'll see.
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I just put that video up, glad you like it. I filed that axe with crosscut use in mind. The thin cheeks peel bark well and drive deep and hold fast when used for underbucking. The House handle didn't come as an octagonal, but that was easily done with a drawshave. Full size head makes a good wedge driver.
Here's a better look. I take it with me when cutting firewood for the stove.

IMG-0706.jpg
 
GmpaJim said:
Thanks!! I couldn’t find a rounded handle with my limited search skills.
We also had a 2 man crosscut & one like this with a handle on the end. They were my Great grand fathers. (Who I knew) 3 generations of things + mine = regrettable garage sale.
I’m going to ask around and find a reputable sharpener in the area. I have a chainsaw, but I’m not in that big a hurry.
Click to expand...
Those little saws file up just like the big ones, just need to have smaller gauges to fit the teeth and rakers.
 
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