Crosscut Saw Thread

I was hoping someone might could tell me anything about the saw on the left. It has an etch that is maddeningly just clear enough to know it’s there but to faint to make out. I think if someone saw it that had seen a clear one before they might be able to tell me something. Saw is flat ground and 42 inches long. I appreciate your patience if I messed up the post, first time loading pictures.
SqkUWwd.jpg
mBfjxI5.jpg
B77WU2g.jpg
i4HIf8R.jpg

k0SKmJb.jpg
 
Nice looking saws, in quite good condition! Unfortunately, I can't recognize the logo.
I have had some luck uncovering logos by using a solvent, like kerosene, and a fine sharpening stone. It's a messy process, but by using very light pressure and working only parallel with the length of the saw, sometimes it works!
 
Nice looking saws, in quite good condition! Unfortunately, I can't recognize the logo.
I have had some luck uncovering logos by using a solvent, like kerosene, and a fine sharpening stone. It's a messy process, but by using very light pressure and working only parallel with the length of the saw, sometimes it works!
Thanks much for the reply! I have done some of what you described but was afraid to go forward and make it even harder to read. I’ll do some more and report back.
 
Thanks much for the reply! I have done some of what you described but was afraid to go forward and make it even harder to read. I’ll do some more and report back.
A couple more things to try when trying to read a logo.... I like to take a saw out into bright sunlight and then hold the saw so that you can vary your viewing angle. Sometimes just a degree or two can make a big difference! I also try different cleaning techniques on the saw -- away from the logo -- so that I can determine what works best on the corrosion or coating on that saw. A favorite storage practice on the west coast was to cover the saw with "axle grease" before it was put away. After 50 years or so, some of the treatments can be hard to remove:)
 
A couple more things to try when trying to read a logo.... I like to take a saw out into bright sunlight and then hold the saw so that you can vary your viewing angle. Sometimes just a degree or two can make a big difference! I also try different cleaning techniques on the saw -- away from the logo -- so that I can determine what works best on the corrosion or coating on that saw. A favorite storage practice on the west coast was to cover the saw with "axle grease" before it was put away. After 50 years or so, some of the treatments can be hard to remove:)
Thanks for the tips! I wish I had more of a concept on how the etchings were done in the first place. My thought is they were acid etched and that a chemical cleaning that removes corrosion would remove the etch. Some etches I’ve seen look more like an abrasive etch because the texture/finish of the metal changes. If that’s the case a corrosion remover would be the ticket.

I have looked at this thing in every form of light known to man and God and can’t make it out. Is it possible the writing is foreign? It looks like I can make out words, but they don’t spell anything in English.
 
Okay, I believe what Ive got is the remnants of an etch from 20’s-30’s Craftsman No. 4957 with long C. I cleaned it up a little better and found “Spring Steel” in the arch and No. 4957 to the lower right. I’ll see if I can get better pics tonight.

We’re these re branded Diston 514’s?
I was hoping someone might could tell me anything about the saw on the left. It has an etch that is maddeningly just clear enough to know it’s there but to faint to make out. I think if someone saw it that had seen a clear one before they might be able to tell me something. Saw is flat ground and 42 inches long. I appreciate your patience if I messed up the post, first time loading pictures.
SqkUWwd.jpg
mBfjxI5.jpg
B77WU2g.jpg
i4HIf8R.jpg

k0SKmJb.jpg
 
No. Chinooks have teeth out to the very end and were mostly non-perforated. It is a Simonds saw though, perhaps a #22 or similar.
https://crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=13
I really appreciate the input. I had figured out it wasn’t a Chinook but having a heck of a time figuring out just what it is. I bought the saw on line and was disappointed in how floppy it is. It was actually very sharp under the corrosion that I revived with a hone. The rakers were were even with the teeth so I set them at .013. The teeth have a consistent set at .010 so I left it alone. I haven’t had the opportunity to try it single bucking yet but I’m not optimistic, hope it works out.

The measurements are equal to the dimensions of a No. 22 from the 1953 catalog. The catalog says it’s suitable for heavy timber, but as floppy as it is that kind of leaves me scratching my head. Is thin and floppy typical for a No 22?
 
Thank you sir. I’m hoping I’ll be able to single buck with it. For some reason felling saws are relatively common in North Texas, but finding a bucking saw at all is quite a challenge. Finding one that isn’t worn plum smooth out even more so. This one came out of a chicken coop in Montana via USPS.
Still a wonderful saw though
 
If a #22, it has 6 gauges of taper, that's WAY crescent ground. A great feature for double bucking, light carry and negligible set, but that also was makes it floppy. I'll bet the center spine is practically a knife edge. As such, it wouldn't be my first choice for single bucking. The Royal Chinooks had much thicker steel on the tooth end and are less "wiggly". The taper ground Simonds 520 is even stiffer. Any reason you didn't buy a big one man? You can find those up to 5' on eBay.

 
So, I have just now gotten myself outside to file that late 1870's disston i picked up in September

Things aren't going well

At first, it didnt look so bad, and then I jointed it and I saw just how lop-sided and lazily filed the saw was. I thought "maybe I can still fix it if I file very carefully"

No, no I could not.

Below is a set of 3 photos, first unfiled, second in te first few minutes, and 3rd when I had to stop.
rTwzeC3.jpg


GBaugjR.jpg


At this point, I thought things were going well vs how they could have gone, and then I started the next inch and oh boy

9r2ZErl.jpg


At this point, the only thing I can do is make it worse. Early on, I thought i could get away with filing, jointing, then filing again, but that is not what fate had sown.

If anyone has a method of recutting teeth that doesnt involve a hacksaw, I'm all ears
 
So, I have just now gotten myself outside to file that late 1870's disston i picked up in September

Things aren't going well

At first, it didnt look so bad, and then I jointed it and I saw just how lop-sided and lazily filed the saw was. I thought "maybe I can still fix it if I file very carefully"

No, no I could not.

Below is a set of 3 photos, first unfiled, second in te first few minutes, and 3rd when I had to stop.
rTwzeC3.jpg


GBaugjR.jpg


At this point, I thought things were going well vs how they could have gone, and then I started the next inch and oh boy

9r2ZErl.jpg


At this point, the only thing I can do is make it worse. Early on, I thought i could get away with filing, jointing, then filing again, but that is not what fate had sown.

If anyone has a method of recutting teeth that doesnt involve a hacksaw, I'm all ears


Lemme guess, you flipped the saw or yourself around and started filing again…and you didnt lean your file in the other direction to account for rake the other direction.
 
Lemme guess, you flipped the saw or yourself around and started filing again…and you didnt lean your file in the other direction to account for rake the other direction.
nah
ive filed many saws before, both rake and cross cut.

what messed me up is you can see clearly on the first picture that one set of teeth is much taller than the other, and the spacing was all messed up.

you can see very plainly in the third picture how off the tooth sizes are.

I tried to pull the file into the longer teeth to try and preserve the smaller teeth more, but theres only so much i can do with my limited skill set and teeth that look like they're fresh out of brighton

If you feel like you could have done better, please tell me how a different fleam angle could fix this
reNuSVU.jpg


I'm not much of a hand saw filer, but it looks like you drifted sideways rather then cut straight down. When I file small saws, I count my strokes just like with a chainsaw and don't get ahead of myself.
that's very possible, perhaps if i just filed a few strokes like that, jointed, filed again and continued it could have been avoided, but i feel like balancing force in that kind of way is far exceeding my practice,

counting strokes couldnt hurt either.

You can see though that each tooth varies wildly with fleam, rake, width and height
 
It kinda looks like a saw that I just did that I didn’t adjust the angle when I flipped around and worked from the other end. That’s the only reason I even had a guess for you. If you didn’t do that then you’re probably right about the teeth spacing to begin with. Not much you can do now, just maybe try to catch up on those teeth after you use the saw enough to dull it and have to joint it again.
 
Back
Top