"crowbar with an edge"

Strider - because they will actually cover you on warrenty after you have used it as a crowbar. The DB is a good recommendation for 8" or less - I've owned one and its a very stout piece of steel
 
Any thing from Busse or Fehrman (expensive) or Swamp Rat or Ranger knives RD series
Alot less expensive but just as tough. The latter two may not hold an edge as long as the first two but they still hold a very good edge.

TBG
 
ER.Dept. Bob Engnanth's words there on titanium were before the Beta Ti knives currently being produced that far exceed what ti was capable of when that was written.

I know several people that have owned these Mission knives and they have been quite happy with them for cutting and edge retention with the serrated edge models. Esav is another that is quite pleased with a plain edge. Beta Ti is very hard to grind too which is why I will not work with it. It'd be a two day job just to make a blade. :)

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/MPK_Ti.html
 
Cool. I'm glad that Beta Ti is better than standard Ti. I'm still sticking to steel. Luckily I personally didnt' say anything about Ti and that I quoted other folks. Or else I'd have to say, "I stand corrected" and apologize. These must be old articles and not reflect that Mission knives are Beta Ti.

I'm assuming that Beta Ti can stay as sharp as today's supersteels while doing hanging rope cuts, chopping through 2X4's, and cutting through H2O bottles like the cutting test they perform in cutting competitons every year in Atlanta. Is that correct? I don't know much. My knowledge on knives is flimsy at best. That's probably why I rely on compiled research coupled with overwhelming opinion before I purchase. Will you enlighten me please.

Funny, I've never seen one knife or has one ever participated in the Atlanta competition that was any form of Ti. Do you know why STR? You seem very knowledgeable.

Oh, one more thing. Someone mentioned that Cliff Stamp reviewed the knife in Beta Ti. Here's one paragraph. You are right again STR. Beta Ti is harder than standart Ti. It is about 47 Rockwell. Wow! Impressive. A quote summarizing final thoughts follows:

"There are some drawbacks due to use of Ti however; the low weight and reduced hardness. Because the MPK-Ti is fairly light and neutral in balance it isn't an efficient chopping tool compared to something of similar size (but much heavier) like the Camp Tramp . The ~47 HRC blade also means that it will indent more readily than the higher hardness cutlery steels, which can be a problem on accidental hard contacts. It also doesn't respond as well to coarse finishes".

So, a new member is asking for a reccommendation. Is it a go with he Beta then. If you say yes, then I'm all for it. Again, my materials knowledge is very poor. I'll take whatever the group says. The gentleman is asking for "quality". I'm sure he means in all aspects of usability, prying, cutting, edge retention. That's why I will profer the Busse line and the Strider line. I have two Striders as well.

Again, if you say Beta Ti is better for a 1 knife reccommendation, I'll go with whatever you and Esav say. What do I know. Probably very little.


Sincerely and humbly,

Cliff :)

Peace to all creatures great and small
 
Peter Atwoods Bug Out Blade: http://www.phlaunt.com/atwoodknives/11317637.php

113176371boblade05.jpg

As true to the Pry Bar with An Edge concept as you're gonna get.

I'll add one more to the Edge with Prying capabilities list: The Fixed Razel line by the Graham brothers: http://www.grahamknives.com/new_razel_line.htm
 
glockman99 said:
Cold Steel Recon Scout...7.5" blade.
Cold Steel Trailmaster Bowie...9.5" blade.

Both are 5/16ths an inch THICK.
Click to expand...
5/16's?? Are you sure? I've handled both and they were 1/4" Is there something I'm missing here? Thanks for any clarification. :)

And my vote for a sharpened prybar is either Swamp Rat or Busse, followed by Strider. Bang for your buck says Swamp Rat is in the "Best Buy" category bar none.
 
ERdept said:
I'm assuming that Beta Ti can stay as sharp as today's supersteels while doing hanging rope cuts, chopping through 2X4's, and cutting through H2O bottles like the cutting test they perform in cutting competitons every year in Atlanta.
Click to expand...

These test more cutting ability than edge retention, mainly as the volume is low. Mission's Beta-Ti is a quality blade material if you want high corrosion resistance, otherwise steel is usually a better opinion. Beta-Ti will generally be outperformed in edge retention on a similar sharpened steel blade unless corrosion is an issue. It does better than some steels when corrosion isn't an issue because it is really tougher and more flexible so the edge resists chipping where some of the high carbon stainless blades can chip.

-Cliff
 
HoB said:
Actually the closest to the concept would be Atwood's PryThing.
But it probably doesn't make the length requirement.
Click to expand...
One thing I like about Peter. He's willing to customize. He just did a special Pop n Chop for me. I would ask him about a thicker Bug Out Blade.
 
Tony, I agree with you that if a production doesn't suit you, then a custom must be made. The original poster of the thread did not specify even if the prybar was to be pointed or not. The question wasn't specific enough for specific answers.

Anyway, we don't know enough of the specifics. That's why the answers are all over the board.

Where is the original poster of the thread to chime in and to provide feedback so that better and more suitable reccommendations can be made?

Cliff
 
I'm assuming that Beta Ti can stay as sharp as today's supersteels
Click to expand...

No. I wouldn't go quite that far I don't think. If edge keeping and shaving sharp is what you need stick with steel. The Beta ti blades cut but as I said before it is usually on softer materials like rope, and twine, maybe some brush or underwater vegetation. As Cliff pointed out; In a corrosive environment the Ti would shine because even though it may not be as sharp starting out as a good steel blade that good steel blade would lose ground fast whereas the Ti would stay relatively unchanged. In some cases like this it is much preferred to have a crappy edge for a long time as opposed to a good edge that disappears pretty fast. Beta Ti blades are particularly tough for pry bar and diggging type work and from what I have read and heard about from owners of these knives they take a beating and ask for more.


Funny, I've never seen one knife or has one ever participated in the Atlanta competition that was any form of Ti. Do you know why STR?
Click to expand...

You answered this yourself shortly after asking the above, and what you read is correct. The light weight doesn't make most Ti knives very good choppers for a competition like what you describe. I wouldn't say that this means one couldn't be made to work in a pinch but chopping is not going to fall into the category of being its forte'.

If chopping were one of the criteria asked about as opposed to a sharpened 'pry bar' I'd have probably made my first recommendation a Camp Tramp which in my opinion is a very hard knife to beat for the money as a general camp and/or survival tool. This knife wears many hats really. It is a tactical weapon for defense if need be and can be used in a pinch for food prep and field dressing tasks if necessary particulary heavy deboning and sectioning and such, (although it isn't a first choice for the lighter skinning and precision cutting jobs for sure) and it is going to fit the role of a camp axe quite well also and for the most part you could also do minor excavating with it to clear an area for your camp site in the role of a small shovel with little concern for hurting much more than maybe the finish and a few dings on the edge.

The Cold Steel Recon Scout is also a good knife and I have one of those as well that has seen lots of use. For about the same money though you could have the Camp Tramp and for me that is the better knife. Both have great blades but the handle is the deciding factor for me. The Cold Steel handles are great at first but after heavy use they have not held up well for me.

Overall it just depends on what fits your needs the best.
 
FRIZ said:
I am looking for a crowbar with an edge.
Click to expand...

More commonly known as a "Sharpened Prybar"

One of the original concepts of this was the American Tanto -
as typified by the Cold Steel Tanto

To my eyes only the standard length (shorter) Tanto (at just a shade under 6" blade length) seem suitable as a sharpened prybar.......

There were lots of (cheaper) knock-off copies of this pretty famous knife.

--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
 
Mission's Beta can get very sharp, Will Kwan was the first guy I recall noting this on the forums. You can easily get it sharp enough to push through newprint, shave hair, cut the letters off a piece of paper etc. .

-Cliff
 
Leatherman, both of the CS knives referenced are actually 5/16". And for "sharpened prybars" they are pretty decent knives if you ask me. Top shelf for production knives IMO.

I've never owned a Busse unless you count my Swamp Rat (Camp Tramp). I'd go with that if you want one on the cheap - even though it is only 1/4" thick (only... :rolleyes: ) the differential temper makes it more suitable for prying than the CS offerings. And if the budget knife from Busse (SR) is any gage, I'd have to say they would be my top choice - provided cost wasn't an issue.

Ranger knives have an excellent reputation as well. I'd definately consider one of their blades.

I would not buy anything from Strider, especially not after reading that fiasco thread from yesterday. I know there are plenty of die hard fans of theirs but the way the company owner handles his business - on a public forum no less - was the straw the broke the camel's back for me :barf:

Nothing less than 1/4" thick would fit the criteria IMO. And I would also want to stay away from any stainless steels for a 'prybar'. So first choice would be Busse, then Swamp Rat, Then either Ranger Knives or Cold Steel.
 
I'd go with the Ti; lighter and will probably handle the stresses of prying better. If the OP asked for a knife, I'd suggest steel. Maybe even something used in the Atlanta competition. But for a 'crowbar with an edge', that's inappropriate.
 
James Green Dragon said:
I would not buy anything from Strider, especially not after reading that fiasco thread from yesterday. I know there are plenty of die hard fans of theirs but the way the company owner handles his business - on a public forum no less - was the straw the broke the camel's back for me :barf:

Nothing less than 1/4" thick would fit the criteria IMO. And I would also want to stay away from any stainless steels for a 'prybar'. So first choice would be Busse, then Swamp Rat, Then either Ranger Knives or Cold Steel.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that about sums it up. Even with a special forces black ops heat treat, ats-34 and s30v are dangerous to pry with.
 
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