Cru Forge V Toughness Testing

Larrin Larrin do y'all have an update on this? I was wonder g what your thoughts are on it 6 months later. I've thought about using this with the most basic of forging equipment
 
valknut said:
Larrin Larrin do y'all have an update on this? I was wonder g what your thoughts are on it 6 months later. I've thought about using this with the most basic of forging equipment
Click to expand...
I don’t know if I hav anything particularly insightful to say that I didn’t already within the thread. One thing it reinforces for me is how much I don’t trust heat treating with torches or a forge rather than a good heat treating furnace. The toughness was terrible with the overaustenitized condition. And that austenitizing temperature was even recommended by the manufacturer! I can almost understand if a knife maker is just starting out but I don’t know why you wouldn’t invest $1000 to be able to get repeatable results.
 
I like your dad's idea of using the oven to heat the steel to forge it. Wonder why more makers don't do this.
Seems this steel likes to be austentized at 1480-1530 from what I saw on your charts.
Just didn't know if your opinion about this steel had changed over the last few months. Thank you for your response.
 
Too slow for most applications, I suspect. Maybe if you used salt or a fluidized bed, that might go a little faster. As I have used Parks #50 for thicker sections, the charts have me wondering if I am actually getting more than 61Rc with the 1500/400 recipe?
valknut said:
I like your dad's idea of using the oven to heat the steel to forge it. Wonder why more makers don't do this.
Seems this steel likes to be austentized at 1480-1530 from what I saw on your charts.
Just didn't know if your opinion about this steel had changed over the last few months. Thank you for your response.
Click to expand...
 
valknut said:
I like your dad's idea of using the oven to heat the steel to forge it. Wonder why more makers don't do this.
Seems this steel likes to be austentized at 1480-1530 from what I saw on your charts.
Just didn't know if your opinion about this steel had changed over the last few months. Thank you for your response.
Click to expand...
It's definitely slower than using a forge. It depends on how many knives you are making and how many re-heats are necessary. Though for hand forging of knives with the small amount of reduction control of temperature might be more important than what we found in our testing.
 
jdm61 said:
As I have used Parks #50 for thicker sections, the charts have me wondering if I am actually getting more than 61Rc with the 1500/400 recipe?
Click to expand...
If you can convince someone with a Rockwell tester to check one for you then you will know for sure.
 
I’ve done it between forge relinings. It’s slow to heat the steel, and unless using a fully welded billet for Damascus or san mai, decarb is an issue. Can’t use flux or you will destroy the coils or fire brick. In a pinch, you can forge with a kiln.
 
LOL. I have a hardness tester, but I have never figured out how to use it so I don't know if it actually works. .
Larrin said:
If you can convince someone with a Rockwell tester to check one for you then you will know for sure.
Click to expand...
 
By proper English do you mean that affected stiff upper lip Victorian stuff? Appalachian English is proper English. It's just a couple of hundred years old. Not everyone who came here lived in Surrey or Kent. ;)
Kentucky said:
It's all I know. I'd need subtitles to understand proper English
Click to expand...
 
Larrin said:
I'm surprised no one cares that triple quenching didn't work.
Click to expand...
I think double quench with a sub critical anneal between the 2 to quench is the most quenching a blade needs if you're going to do more than 1. 3 quenches in my shop is "oops, maybe I'll reHT this and give it to mom"
-Trey
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top