CTS-XHP/Duratech 20CV?

Gress said:
And now I change this to:
1. s35vn
2. D 20cv
3.CTS-XHP
as 20cv holds the edge better than CTS and is more usable long-run. This is due to tha fact that 20cv contains a large volume of extremely hard vanadium carbides, which provide excellent wear resistance. There is no vanadium in CTS.
Click to expand...

BigBrad75 said:
Ditto! My thoughts EXACTLY!
Click to expand...

What kind of cutting tests etc. have you guys done to support those numbers? Or, is it just an opinion...which is cool. Just wondered? :)

Edit: I agree with the 1st two as my son has the Duratech 20CV and I have the CTS-XHP. I ended up holding his for safe-keeping awhile and used them both to cut down a couple of "Priority mail" boxes and cut the corners off of a three foot scrap of 2x4 - 2 to 2.5 ft long slivers (just two good, long cuts with each). I cut deeply enough unti it hurt my hand to hold the handles.

Both had some small notches displayed in the edge. Curious, 2 little notches on each blade and in the same place? Both knives were restored to like new by stropping only, which removed these tiny little square dings. I continued to cut more cardboard with the 20CV until the blade was definitely dulled and couldn't be restored with a strop. I used my Sharpmaker on it which to me was kinda like peeing into the wind. I ended up getting it scary sharp with DMT hones.

I pushed the Duratech 20CV the most so iit's ridiculously "UN-scientific" and not a real test but it was my experience. That steel laughs at the ceramic Sharpmaker rods but responded to diamond hones grudgingly - it's really hard stuff! I don't own an XM-18 with S35VN (but I'd love to Rob if you read this!!) so I can't comment on it. I have a Sebenza with it but really my XM-18 gets all of my pocket time.
 
Last edited:
Also as jim stated 20cv is similar in comp. To m390 wich in his tests would make it numero uno
20cv
Xhp
S35
In. My real world use of the steel I would say
Xhp
20cv
S35 diff strokes for diff folks I guess
 
I have a marsh green scale on way so they will match soon:rolleyes:
20110429_194759_933.jpg
 
I like this line-up as my choices if I could order them in what I wanted:

Duratech 20CV
CTS-XHP
S35VN
 
I think s35 at 61 would be awesome .problem is getting one at 61 crks are way low,hinderers are expensive secondary market and sppydies in this steel are yet to come . I would assume spyderco will be 60
 
spydusse said:
I have a marsh green scale on way so they will match soon:rolleyes:
20110429_194759_933.jpg
Click to expand...

I have both (the CTS-XHP Manix 2 in foliage green and the CTS-CHP XM-18 in marsh green), they don't match.

But, I do like them both.

Regards,

Rich
 
Yeah well I don't need them to be exact. I wanted a blue or orange but no takers on the trade for my brown only the green so I took it . Let me just say I have been beating this xm up at plant nursery for last week and the dam thing just keeps cutting.I am very impressed.
 
spydusse said:
Yeah well I don't need them to be exact. I wanted a blue or orange but no takers on the trade for my brown only the green so I took it . Let me just say I have been beating this xm up at plant nursery for last week and the dam thing just keeps cutting.I am very impressed.
Click to expand...

So your XM-18 is CTS-XHP right? They are all good steels. Rick makes nothing but the best and builds his XM's for hard use. I'd bet crisp $100 bill he's got an optimal heat treat on each of these great steels that he uses. :thumbup:

My son has the 20CV and I have CTS-XHP and have cut with both - they are very tough steels. ;)
 
I read somewhere on this forums not to expect muuch better preformance out of my xhp xm over my xhp manix because the ht oon this steel is pretty consistant.after a week with the xm id say its pretty close to its spydie cousin with the xm maybe taking a slight edge.no pun intended
 
spydusse said:
I read somewhere on this forums not to expect muuch better preformance out of my xhp xm over my xhp manix because the ht oon this steel is pretty consistant.after a week with the xm id say its pretty close to its spydie cousin with the xm maybe taking a slight edge.no pun intended
Click to expand...

What I wonder is: why you'd beat up your XM-18 doing landscaping/nursery work instead of the Spyderco Manix 2? The XM is designed for hard use but I couldn't bring myself to intentionaly trash one to compare it to a cheaper knife with the same blade steel.

I use my XM-18 for EDC and I know it's not going to fail if I need it for hard use. I don't baby it now, I've already dulled it and had to re-profile it once, so it's not like I don't use it. I just don't go out of my way to trash it. :)
 
As you can see not trashed ,just used well. Mmy boss said to me your not actually gonna use that thing are you. My response,''thats what its made for ,right?''
20110507_203944_221.jpg
as you can see g10 matched nicely
 
Oh forgot to tell you , for trash work or when someone says can I use your knife I have either my supertool , izula2, or my boss street on me for that
040311120019.jpg
you don't want me to take a pic of manix with flash on though you'd say ouchhhh
 
Last edited:
Well I must admit that it looks in marvelous shape for what I'd envision nursery work - like cutting in soil etc..

Mine is more worn looking than that - just from cutting down cardboard and stuff. Plus, like a dummy, I rounded the spanto edge when re-sharpening it - right at that little transition where the edge has the corner going up to the tip. :(

At least it cuts like a banshee and is still rugged as hell. :D
 
Mine goes up a bit on the spanto edge also. I think that's just gonna happen with the grind style. It looks nice because of photo angle,no flash,and somme good flitzing before pic . Its only been a week it will get uglier. I don't cut into dirt with my nice folders a nice blade, that duties reserved for the fixed blade of the day or my supertool. Most of the work I do with my folders is twine cutting all plys ,burlap ,plastic,plastic pots fort tie down holes,and some cardboard. You want to see a edge go quick cut some dirty ,off a trailer, dragged in mud 2ply twine off a cover .
 
This is more of everday tasks though
20110508_083735_906.jpg
20110508_084551_475.jpg
this leylands came in from S.C. I don't know why they used these straps to hold trunk and roots in place in root ball. The problem is they won't dissenagrate,I had to swap them out for this kerosene treated twine . Even though its treated it will dissenagrate under soil in six months.
20110508_084804_850.jpg
20110508_085338_836.jpg
finished
20110508_091454_232.jpg
 
cziv said:
What kind of cutting tests etc. have you guys done to support those numbers? Or, is it just an opinion...which is cool. Just wondered? :)

Edit: I agree with the 1st two as my son has the Duratech 20CV and I have the CTS-XHP. I ended up holding his for safe-keeping awhile and used them both to cut down a couple of "Priority mail" boxes and cut the corners off of a three foot scrap of 2x4 - 2 to 2.5 ft long slivers (just two good, long cuts with each). I cut deeply enough unti it hurt my hand to hold the handles.

Both had some small notches displayed in the edge. Curious, 2 little notches on each blade and in the same place? Both knives were restored to like new by stropping only, which removed these tiny little square dings. I continued to cut more cardboard with the 20CV until the blade was definitely dulled and couldn't be restored with a strop. I used my Sharpmaker on it which to me was kinda like peeing into the wind. I ended up getting it scary sharp with DMT hones.

I pushed the Duratech 20CV the most so iit's ridiculously "UN-scientific" and not a real test but it was my experience. That steel laughs at the ceramic Sharpmaker rods but responded to diamond hones grudgingly - it's really hard stuff! I don't own an XM-18 with S35VN (but I'd love to Rob if you read this!!) so I can't comment on it. I have a Sebenza with it but really my XM-18 gets all of my pocket time.
Click to expand...

So, what would you recommend I get to sharpen 20CV? I was planning on getting a Sharpmaker, would the optional diamond triangles work? Or should I just use my XM-18 with the CTS-XHP blade and use the Sharpmaker with the stones it comes with?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top