Define "bushcraft knife" for me - what are the design features and intended applications of such a knife as distinct from a hunter?
I've seen the term used quite a bit, but I can't say I really understand what it means.
Roger
okay Roger, I'll try my best;
A knife intended for use as a general outdoor utility/bushcraft knife will generally be of a fairly robust stock for its size.
The mid point at the heel of the handle and the point of the blade will be pretty much in line, and sometimes the tang will protrude slightly from the heel. Percussive strikes to the butt of the handle will drive the point into whatever, nice and straight, for example in starting a divot for use with a fire bow, or opening a can. Usually not much in the way of tapered tangs for this reason, methinks.
Generally, bushcraft knives are not intended for chopping or swinging around, as those activities can be dangerous in isolated locales, where an infected cut could equate to death. Third party percussion is the name of the game to ensure precision and safety. Ah, batoning!
It's amazing what you can do with a stout little knife and a chunk of wood.
The blade would be 80- 140mm long and the handle just long enough to provide leverage and control, but not so long as to be in the way.
Not much in the way of a guard, but enough to keep your finger from slipping onto the blade.
Probably a lanyard hole, and almost always slab handles, but not in the case of the Finnish, Norwegian or Swedish traditional designs, (I expect the expense and availability of steel has more to do with that than weight or function in a historical context, but that's just a theory).
The durability of the edge is really important, and I think a proper bush knife would have a hardness anywhere from 56-59, whereas a hunter would have a harder, more wear resistant edge in the 58-62 range. A bushcraft knife should not break easily, but bend instead. The edge should never chip, but dent or roll instead. Toughness is more important for these types of knives than edge holding. The ability to restore the edge in the field is also a major attribute.
Preferably, there won't be a lot of 'belly' toward the tip of the blade, and the rest of the edge should follow a straight line. None of this recurve business. The spine will usually not be chamfered so it can be used as a 'mellow edge', or to strike your flint with.
A lot of times, these knives would not be made from chromium steel. I'm not altogether sure why, except that in my experience a flint reacts better to non chromium than the other option, but I don't have much science to back up that claim
I have a theory that the 'chute knife' is a North American take on the traditional European bushcraft knife, (I think it's called a puuko) but again it's just a dumb theory.
The Fallkniven F1 in my view is the BEST production bushcraft knife available and really displays some great attributes of this design philosophy. If I had ONE knife to depend on in a survival situation, this would be it.
Now, that's just how I see it personally. I ain't sayin it's gotta be this way or that way, so if you disagree that's fine by me.
Mr. Davis- your knife looks like a fine example! Personally, I'd like it a little more pointy but that's just my preference.
Joe- thank you for the pics, I always thought those wsk knives looked really cool. Especially after I watched 'The Hunted'
. But, yeah, they really don't look that practical. I'd rather have your Bagwell and that little caper any day, than just one knife which is supposed to be able to 'do it all'. So, uh, can I have them? Haha, just kidding.
Jdm61- awesome background! I like the fact you pointed out the 'kit knife' option, maybe you'll make some someday, and with it, lots and lots of cabbage
Keith- it's eery, but you know exactly where I'm going with this.
Paul- I totally agree! That's why I carry a bushcraft knife in addition to a big-ass chopper, then there ain't anything I can't do!
Let me just say that I appreciate your participation in the thread guys:thumbup:
