- Joined
- Aug 30, 2007
- Messages
- 5,483
I got an email from a forum member asking for pictures of my kydex work so I thought I'd post them here.
Disclaimer:
I'm not a sheath maker for income like Normark so if you need a custom sheath done, I'd check with him or Robert H. or someone like that. I wouldn't mind making a sheath for some people if they want one, but you need to know that they come out different for each knife. I don't have a mold or anything and I can only make them for knive I own or one that gets loaned to me to mold the kydex to. Also, I'm not trying to sell sheaths from here or anything. I make these as a hobby and for my own stuff only, so it's an "on my time" kinda thing. If you have any questions about getting one, shoot me an email.
About the sheaths:
I use black kydex that is thinner than most of the stuff getting used by sheath makers these days. I like the thin sutff because its lighter and, in my opinion, holds and releases the knife better. Most of the thicker stuff, if molded properly, either needs an adjustable tension setup or is very hard to get the knife out of, making it great for jumping out of planes, but annoying for a civi like me that just wants a good sheath. For fixed blade knifes, I like a horizontal carry. It's a position I favor because it keep the knife out of the way, you can put it anywhere around you and it doesn't hinder any movement, and with the way I do the belt loops, you can just run paracord around them once or twice and blammo you've got a vertical carry belt loop. For my big choppers, I don't even put belt loops on the sheaths. The sheaths are there to protect the blade from crap and me from the blade only. I don't carry a chopper strapped to me. It stays in the pack so i don't need loops on them. The loops I do are molded specifically to the measurements of the belt it will be worn on the most or the largest belt it will ever be worn on. The belt loops are measured for thickness and width for a very snug fit. I always put two loops on so the user can have one loop on each side of a pant loop. That way it will stay put even with a smaller belt when the knife is drawn or put back. I also add a drain hole, two holes for a necker rig made with paracord, and a thumb ramp with grooves in it so you can draw the knife by gripping the handle and pushing the sheath with your thumb. On some, I add a firesteel loop. I will admit, that is an idea I got from this forum and the screws and such used are the same that Normark uses. I bought a couple of sheaths from him and I liked the hardware he used for attaching things so I stole it from him.
The Trailhawk sheath has no belt loops like my chopper sheaths, mainly because i never carry it on a belt either. It stays with the pack until I need it. Again, the sheath is only there to protect the head and protect me from it. At the rear of the sheath is a simple idea I had for retaining. It's a bit molded over so that the hawk head snaps in and to take it off, all you do is pull down at the snap with your thumb and the whole sheath comes off easily. It is tight enough though that the sheath won't come off unless you pull on that tab. That's about all I can think of. Enjoy the pics.
Disclaimer:
I'm not a sheath maker for income like Normark so if you need a custom sheath done, I'd check with him or Robert H. or someone like that. I wouldn't mind making a sheath for some people if they want one, but you need to know that they come out different for each knife. I don't have a mold or anything and I can only make them for knive I own or one that gets loaned to me to mold the kydex to. Also, I'm not trying to sell sheaths from here or anything. I make these as a hobby and for my own stuff only, so it's an "on my time" kinda thing. If you have any questions about getting one, shoot me an email.
About the sheaths:
I use black kydex that is thinner than most of the stuff getting used by sheath makers these days. I like the thin sutff because its lighter and, in my opinion, holds and releases the knife better. Most of the thicker stuff, if molded properly, either needs an adjustable tension setup or is very hard to get the knife out of, making it great for jumping out of planes, but annoying for a civi like me that just wants a good sheath. For fixed blade knifes, I like a horizontal carry. It's a position I favor because it keep the knife out of the way, you can put it anywhere around you and it doesn't hinder any movement, and with the way I do the belt loops, you can just run paracord around them once or twice and blammo you've got a vertical carry belt loop. For my big choppers, I don't even put belt loops on the sheaths. The sheaths are there to protect the blade from crap and me from the blade only. I don't carry a chopper strapped to me. It stays in the pack so i don't need loops on them. The loops I do are molded specifically to the measurements of the belt it will be worn on the most or the largest belt it will ever be worn on. The belt loops are measured for thickness and width for a very snug fit. I always put two loops on so the user can have one loop on each side of a pant loop. That way it will stay put even with a smaller belt when the knife is drawn or put back. I also add a drain hole, two holes for a necker rig made with paracord, and a thumb ramp with grooves in it so you can draw the knife by gripping the handle and pushing the sheath with your thumb. On some, I add a firesteel loop. I will admit, that is an idea I got from this forum and the screws and such used are the same that Normark uses. I bought a couple of sheaths from him and I liked the hardware he used for attaching things so I stole it from him.
The Trailhawk sheath has no belt loops like my chopper sheaths, mainly because i never carry it on a belt either. It stays with the pack until I need it. Again, the sheath is only there to protect the head and protect me from it. At the rear of the sheath is a simple idea I had for retaining. It's a bit molded over so that the hawk head snaps in and to take it off, all you do is pull down at the snap with your thumb and the whole sheath comes off easily. It is tight enough though that the sheath won't come off unless you pull on that tab. That's about all I can think of. Enjoy the pics.
i really like that mora M2K sheath/set up....
)
I'll have to think about that a little more.
