Customized Survive! Knives

Hard Knocks said:
Sorry if I contributed there fellas. Those scales are so nice I knew TR was going to get hit up for them, but probably shouldn't have voiced it. Apologies.

Redwood, you're just handier than a pocket on a shirt! I'll bet it's not long before you get the fit just right. :thumbup:
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Thanks HK, I was working with pre-dyed scrap which limited some design choices by I think set me up to try again well. The biggest mistake I made was a too narrow welt. I like leather because aside from the aesthetics you can often get a nice compact sheath....I think I tried to hard for that haha

BeeKayNutCase said:
Hey TR. This is a mod thread. You do mods. Brilliantly I may add. Don't think you have taken over bud. Sheeeeet Stimpy, keep em comin', it's only on page two. Loving this so far, but I'm also waiting for someone to grind on their S! Come on! I'm sure it's not only the Beckerheads that grind on their steel. Admittedly, it's hard to begin messing with a shape that's basically perfect from the start but that said, warm up those 2x72's fellas! I wanna see some sparks flyin'!
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Agreed!!! And grinding has been done!! Others have posted about it, so hopefully they will pop in and share!
 
Aw and I missed out on seeing it and I'm too dumb to look those sort of things up. Oh well. Hopefully they will drop in RW. I really hope they do. I love that stuff..
 
redwood22 said:
Agreed!!! And grinding has been done!! Others have posted about it, so hopefully they will pop in and share!
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BeeKayNutCase said:
Aw and I missed out on seeing it and I'm too dumb to look those sort of things up. Oh well. Hopefully they will drop in RW. I really hope they do. I love that stuff..
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If someone had a good method to create false grinds for GSO's I feel like that person could quit their day job!
 
Speaking of methods, and in the interest of keeping this thread informative, here's a picture of how I do screw holes. Centering a larger diameter hole after the though-hole is drilled is nearly impossible on a standard drill press. The larger hole is always just a little off because one flute will cut/grab a bit more. Even a few thousands of an inch is visible, and drives me crazy. If you zoom in on my original handles, the holes are an area for improvement. Also, the S!K fasteners are just a hair too tight in standard 5/16" x 1/4" counterbored holes. I needed a stepped drill bit that was ground to the right diameters. This singe detail is responsible for about 3 sets of scrapped out handle material.

I make my own stepped drill bits for various things. I am really pleased with the results. I can now get the holes exactly concentric, and the fit on the head is just a slight slip fit. I'm calling it done. This drill bit looks like something that should be thrown away, like it was used to drill concrete. But the important part - the cutting edges - are sharp and uniform. And if I can do this, anyone can.

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Very clever. I'm going to file that one in the old noggin for future use :thumbup:

What bit did you start with, and how did you turn the last section of the tip to a smaller diameter?
 
Hard Knocks said:
Very clever. I'm going to file that one in the old noggin for future use :thumbup:

What bit did you start with, and how did you turn the last section of the tip to a smaller diameter?
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Started with 21/64" (0.016" over the 5/16" head diameter). Grind the pilot diameter to 0.254" which the barrel of the fastener just slips into. The fastener head is 0.3125", so I took the c-bore to about 0.318" diameter, which gives me a few thou all around. Also the underside of the head has a bevel (looks like a typical 118-degree fastener), so I matched that on the c-bore flutes. Just eyeballed that part. You have to under-cut the c-bore flutes, then relieve the back side of the shoulder, too. You will know when you have it right when the bit cuts shavings instead of smoking/burning.

How? "Very Carefully" :cool:

I used a Dremel sawmax with a cutoff wheel. All hand profiled, which is why the sides looked pretty hashed. I chucked the bit up in the drill and "shave" the sides and cut the flutes. Cut against the rotation of the bit. Work very slowly and check things often. If you take too much off (diameter) the fastener does not fit and you have to start over...

Looks like a Feral Beaver gnawed it out of some dowel rod, but it works a treat. I watched a youtube the first time I ever tried it. I think the drill bit cost me $2. I found a machine shop that would make me one for $190. Screw that. I've done this to make the holes in pistol grip blanks too. Works awesome.
 
Good work TR. that's more patience than I have for things like that.
Looking forward to seeing some of your 1911 grips too
 
Hey TR,

That's a fantastic tutorial on the stepped bit. I'm putting this to use. And the scales look fantastic. Let us know when you're taking orders...I might be into a pair for my forthcoming 4.7!
 
Silver Needle said:
If someone had a good method to create false grinds for GSO's I feel like that person could quit their day job!
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Big Chris is still taking orders for regrinds, although he stopped taking orders for knives when he hit a one year backlog.
 
TRfromMT said:
Started with 21/64" (0.016" over the 5/16" head diameter). Grind the pilot diameter to 0.254" which the barrel of the fastener just slips into. The fastener head is 0.3125", so I took the c-bore to about 0.318" diameter, which gives me a few thou all around. Also the underside of the head has a bevel (looks like a typical 118-degree fastener), so I matched that on the c-bore flutes. Just eyeballed that part. You have to under-cut the c-bore flutes, then relieve the back side of the shoulder, too. You will know when you have it right when the bit cuts shavings instead of smoking/burning.

How? "Very Carefully" :cool:

I used a Dremel sawmax with a cutoff wheel. All hand profiled, which is why the sides looked pretty hashed. I chucked the bit up in the drill and "shave" the sides and cut the flutes. Cut against the rotation of the bit. Work very slowly and check things often. If you take too much off (diameter) the fastener does not fit and you have to start over...

Looks like a Feral Beaver gnawed it out of some dowel rod, but it works a treat. I watched a youtube the first time I ever tried it. I think the drill bit cost me $2. I found a machine shop that would make me one for $190. Screw that. I've done this to make the holes in pistol grip blanks too. Works awesome.
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TRfromMT said:
.....And if I can do this, anyone can.
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You might be selling yourself short :) Thanks for the explanation.

Silver Needle said:
If someone had a good method to create false grinds for GSO's I feel like that person could quit their day job!
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I'll bet Razor Edge Knives would hook you up, too.
 
Another set for the 5.1 in stabilized maple. Really happy with the way these turned out.



 
redwood22 said:
These look great! Do they seem to get easier the more you do?
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Thanks! Yes, for sure they get easier. I typically make a couple sets and figure out where the trouble spots are, then focus on how to solve just those details. That's why I had to make the stepped drill bit. Once I got that resolved, I was back in action. He first ones I made are probably never going back on a knife.
 
Well I got liner material from standard a little while back and he's probably been curious what my intentions were with the material. I just got some bog oak and my intentions are to make some scales for a 4.5. Now to finish raising finds for the most important part. (The 4.5) :) any suggestions would be nice. It's not aged but looks like very good grain. (Not stabilized)
 
Texas,
Suggestions... Do what I do. Set yourself up to make handles, sell a few, then pretend you are making money hand over fist and tap the family budget.

Or not.

Post up a picture of the material - I, for one, would love to see it. K&G does pro-grad stabilizing, is very reasonable, and will do small batches. Oak can probably use it as it is fairly porous.
 
Bog oak is not as porous as fresh or just seasoned oak. From what I hear it tends to do well not stabilized. We shall see once my blade arrives. I may get an itch early and do my 7/7 first.

And yes I'll post pictures in a few weeks when it arrives. (International)
 
I am also wondering the size of the fastener holes. I intend on making some mosaic pins to attach the scales. Maybe Guy can pop in and chime in on that and I could make them and have everything waiting. :)
 
Texas_toothpick said:
I am also wondering the size of the fastener holes. I intend on making some mosaic pins to attach the scales. Maybe Guy can pop in and chime in on that and I could make them and have everything waiting. :)
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I know this one... The holes in the new spec 5.1 and 4.7 tangs are .250" diameter. They are a few 'thou over, and the fasteners are a very close slip fit. You should be OK with 1/4" mosaic pins, and maybe (maybe!) need a little emery paper to polish them if they are too tight or not perfectly round.
 
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