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Cutting down trees with a Mora

Nice. Now I want to take my Moras out, see how they measure up. Or more accurately...how my skill does!
 
The second method looks like it benefits from a relatively thin blade, say 1/8" maximum, and a saber grind of some sort, not full flat. Maybe convex would work too. Its hard to imagine the relatively light blows used to do the same thing with a blade 1/4" thick.
 
The Mora's performing that wayu doesn't surprise me at all. Those little blades are tougher than anyone would believe. But they are not indestructible....bt they are cheap to replace.
 
being in landscape maintenance i use technique #1 alot...the tension of the bending helps alot....although i must say i usually used my felco 30s. great vids IAwoodsman! canadian jam knot is awesome!
 
midnite-penguin said:
Cody Lundin covers that first technique in 98.6 degrees: The Art of Keeping Your Ass Alive!. Using a (What else?!) Mora !

Not saying you stole the idea or anything. Just stating it for anyone else who loves that book as much as I do. ;)

Good video though. The second technique is pretty interesting.
Click to expand...

I don`t think anyone can steal this idea as it is older than any of us. I learnt it as a kid and my father learnt it from his father and so on.
I think this is a well known technique in all of scandinavia at least (and also canada it seems).

Tor
 
Nice video. The basswood helps, that wood is nice and soft. I hope you saved those limbs for drying and bowdrill later down the pipe. Great pieces for demos!

I think it is safe to say that a full tang and mircata would easily accomodate the second technique. I'd be a bit sketchy doing it on wood handle slabs. The flexible plastic of those mora's can take that punshiment without shattering would be my guess. Don't do that with a mora #1 :D
 
I bet you COULD do it with a #1 as long as you used a green baton. :)
 
Very nice.

Welcome to BF.... I look forward to your contributions in W&SS.


Rick
 
It's nothing special. It works like a charm and is actually easier on the arm than chopping.
I've done it many times when all I've been carrying is my Mora or OHT.

The way it works is pretty simple, actually:

When you're bending the tree/sapling you're cutting into the stresspoint from the top of the bend. All you have to do is press your knife edge into the bend, the stress from the bending does all the work. It snaps the rings and your knife just moves through the inner layers of the tree (the rings).

You don't even have to do all that pushing stuff. Just apply steady, continuing downward force while you're bending, rocking your knife back and forth.

If I'm not mistaken, Kochanski shows the technique in "Bushcraft".

It's a handy trick to know when you need a lateral pole and don't have a chopper.
 
Very nice video. Clearly illustrates what the lowly Mora can do.

Although it has been brought up many times on the forum, I think seeing it in the video help people understand the technique much better.

Thank you for the valuble contribution to the forum. I hope you continue to be a active member.

Paul
 
Personally, I don't see why I would ever need or want to cut a tree down with my knife but I would trust my Mora to do any outdoor chores that come along. I have carried the 740 as a main knife for quite a few big game seasons. Never had a problem with the handles but I pin the handles on the 740 just because it is easy to do and adds a little confidence.

Good video.
 
In the 1991 issue of Ken Warner's Knives Annual, there is a very interesting article on the Swedish Army knife. In it, he explains how the Swedish basic training recruits are required to cut down a tree using thier issue mora, and build a survival shelter with it.

Those little mora's are a tough little sucker. I guess you could call it the little knife that can.
 
I would like to see him do that with most of the trees in the woods in my area of Ohio. Can you find a softer wood than basswood? I dont think the knife would make it through oak, hickory, ash or most of the other trees we have around here. Thats what choppers/hatchets are for imo.

Having said that I just got a traditional woodworker catalog and will probably pick up my first mora as a supplemental knife for carving etc. My concern would be that it doesnt matter how inexpensive it is if it breaks and I cant replace it. Would someone mind trying this technique on one of the above mentioned hard woods or even a white pine 2x4 and getting back to me?
Thanks, josh
 
j_d said:
I would like to see him do that with most of the trees in the woods in my area of Ohio. Can you find a softer wood than basswood? I dont think the knife would make it through oak, hickory, ash or most of the other trees we have around here. Thats what choppers/hatchets are for imo.

Having said that I just got a traditional woodworker catalog and will probably pick up my first mora as a supplemental knife for carving etc. My concern would be that it doesnt matter how inexpensive it is if it breaks and I cant replace it. Would someone mind trying this technique on one of the above mentioned hard woods or even a white pine 2x4 and getting back to me?
Thanks, josh
Click to expand...

I'm in Kentucky, if it makes you feel any better.

It's not as much to do with toughness of the wood as it is to do with physics and the mechanics of stress. You aren't so much cutting as providing a precise breaking point.

If you can bend the sapling, you can cut it.

It works just fine on young Oaks, Box Elders, Poplars, and Beeches.
 
Somebody here had a youtube video, doing the same thing. I took an Opinel#6 out in the yard and removed several saplings that way.It worked slick. Thats why i like WS&S
 
Kemsat is right, I have done it to oak, maple, birch, ironwood (musclewood or beech, I think)

It is the mechanics/physics behind it. The wood type has alot to do with it too.... but only to a certain extent.

Rick
 
j_d said:
I would like to see him do that with most of the trees in the woods in my area of Ohio. Can you find a softer wood than basswood? I dont think the knife would make it through oak, hickory, ash or most of the other trees we have around here. Thats what choppers/hatchets are for imo.
Click to expand...

Plenty of oak and ash here, and so long as you can bend it, it'll work just fine. Putting this bending stress onto the sapling is the key.
 
I would find most of the 2" oak around here fairly tough to bend but I'll give it a college try. I can see where that technique would likely work better with a super thin blade but I'll give it a shot with the thicker one that I have. I would have just been more impressed if he had not chosen basswood as a demo for the versitility/toughness of a knife that to me is already suspect due to the super thin blade. Also, is there a consensus on the laminated mora vs. the plain steel? The laminated is about 2xs the cost but still not bad. Thanks.
Josh
edited to add:
I think i get it about the physics and stress. It almost looks like he is using the stress to make it split itself.
 
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