D2, A2 or O1 for outdoors/bushcraft applications?

If it is a scandi grind, don't go for D2.
D2 is very wear resistant, & grinding a large flat surface every time you need to sharpen is a PITA.
 
You actually have the option of either 1/8th or 5/32nd of an inch width. Also you can choose scandi or flat grind. I was thinking the 1/8th in the flat as I've really enjoyed the bm 162 in the flat grind but you think a 5/32 scandi would be a good idea? My only experience with scandi grinds is the one on my light my fire mora.
 
So here's my understanding so far. In the thinner blade with a flat grind O1 is the way to go with A2 a possible 2nd choice. If I were to go with the thicker width of 5/32 and a scandi grind D2 may be the way to go. Just for background I've picked black and grey g10 for the handles with blue liners held in place with mosaic (stainless steel)pins. leather dangler sheath and the matching fire steel/ferro rod.
 
Can't go wrong with O1. One of my favorite steels. Takes a great edge, and easy to touch up. Gotta watch out for rust, but like you said, Colorado is a good climate for that.
 
That's the way I'm leaning unless anyone has something earth shattering to point out that hasn't been addressed yet.
 
O1 all the way. I've been very happy with the performance in the bush & camping. You can "paint" a forced patina with yellow mustard if you have any concern with rust. A2 seems to roll too easy, and a good thin grind in D2 chips like mad. You'll be very pleased with the performance of O1.
 
I'm really glad I posted this thread, I probably would've gone with a D2 steel blade and probably would've regretted it, thanks for all your help guys.
 
I honestly doubt most can tell a difference. I like D2 and the rolled edges and chipping is overblown. But with thinner blade stock, I would tend to choose a different steel if you intend to use it hard. 1095 works for me.
 
I've only used 01 3/16 thick and I love the stuff, I recently got a large supply of A2 and I was told that it would crack or chip under stress... I don't know if that's true but I guess making a 1/2 x 3 x 36 double handed mini sword might be out...
 
I have at least ten 1/8" thick knives in O1. They all have different grinds and they all are great knives. I also like the 1095 from ESEE/Rowan. I used to live in Boulder but now I live in Reno. Very similar climates other than the fact it rains in CO. Fix your damn gun laws so I want to move back there after I graduate!!!
 
It all comes down to the heat treat and temper. O1 and A2 are very similar in make up with A2 being a bit better in toughness and corrosion resistance. Both excell at 60/61 rc. I'd pick A2 over O1. I have many years experience working with it and using it in the field. I've also worked with O1 for a long time and have been able to realistically compare both in the field. Both O1 and A2 are fine grained steels and both take a very good edge. They are easy to sharpen.
Scott
 
onespdfrk said:
O1 all the way. I've been very happy with the performance in the bush & camping. You can "paint" a forced patina with yellow mustard if you have any concern with rust. A2 seems to roll too easy, and a good thin grind in D2 chips like mad. You'll be very pleased with the performance of O1.
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This right here sums it up great. Buy it, use it, enjoy it. You're way over thinking it. :)
 
All my comments assume proper heat treatment and identical geometry. Geometry plays as much of a role in knife design as steel choice.

A2 and O1 are similar from a users perspective. Both are tough enough and hold an edge long enough for the average weekend outing. It's almost like splitting hairs. However, A2 is tougher and slightly more corrosion resistant. O1 is popular with makers because it is inexpensive, has a long established history in knife making, and grinds well... thus keeping production costs down. It's an economical steel.

D2 isn't in the same class as the above; apples to oranges. It takes longer to sharpen. It has similar edge retention as the above two. It has a high chromium content making it a "near stainless" while still a tough steel (but not as tough as O1 or A2), which is a nice quality in my opinion. I only have one D2 blade. It never rusts. My O1 and A2 blades require more maintenance.

PSF 27 is a D2 class steel. This product is as tough as A2 while having better edge retention as well as a high chromium content. Seems like a winner to me.
 
Not to steal any thunder, but I'm really curious what people think of these steels compared to 3v, especially with companies like Survive! and Bark River offering 3v (in conjunction with a2 in the case of Bark River) Thoughts?
 
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Comparing 3v to the aforementioned steels is another apples to oranges comparison. It's approximately twice as tough as A2 and holds an edge twice as long. Of course it costs more... But... I rarely see production costs, marketing perceptions, and old-vs-new tastes factored into why knives cost what they do to produce on BF. It's mostly a popularity contest. "What's the best!!!!!!!!1!"

3V any day of the week. You can't beat the toughness, edge retention, and cost-to-produce ratio. The reason you're not seeing a lot of the garage/hobby guys using it (yet) is because it costs more to work with it; it chews up belts faster and doesn't shape as quickly, thus increasing production costs. However, I've only been here a year and a half and more makers are adapting it. I've also noticed enough of the favored opinion has given it enough of a nod in order for the fence sitters to try it. I see this steel gaining momentum when newcomers stop worrying about $25 price spreads. Don't eat out for a month and use that savings to close the spread and go with 3V.
 
alfred mcdougal said:
Comparing 3v to the aforementioned steels is another apples to oranges comparison. It's approximately twice as tough as A2 and holds an edge twice as long. Of course it costs more... But... I rarely see production costs, marketing perceptions, and old-vs-new tastes factored into why knives cost what they do to produce on BF. It's mostly a popularity contest. "What's the best!!!!!!!!1!"

3V any day of the week. You can't beat the toughness, edge retention, and cost-to-produce ratio. The reason you're not seeing a lot of the garage/hobby guys using it (yet) is because it costs more to work with it; it chews up belts faster and doesn't shape as quickly, thus increasing production costs. However, I've only been here a year and a half and more makers are adapting it. I've also noticed enough of the favored opinion has given it enough of a nod in order for the fence sitters to try it. I see this steel gaining momentum when newcomers stop worrying about $25 price spreads. Don't eat out for a month and use that savings to close the spread and go with 3V.
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I figured it was pretty far outside of the range of the other steels, but I was just curious to see what everyone else thinks. I love my Bark River Little Creek in 3V - takes a crazy edge, is easy to touch up, and stays sharp for a long time, but I love 1095 and was curious about A2 with the Mear's Woodlore, Bark River, and many others choosing A2 as a good all-purpose (if not great bushcrafting steel).

I have a BK24 in D2 - can get to a nice, toothy edge, but cannot achieve the same edge as 1095 or 3V
 
I have beat the tar out of my 01 fixed blades and have never had an issue. Love it.
 
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