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D2 and shaving sharp?

Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
2,045
Hi,

Anyone else notice how D2 loses it's hair shaving abilities quite rapidly once you cut several pieces of cardboard?

I recently compared ATS-34 and D2, and although D2 cuts longer, it's not as sharp. I holds a good edge for a long time, but ATS-34 holds a shaving sharp edge for almost as long as D2 -then its cutting abilities drop off suddenly.

If you're looking for a steel to make a really sharp knife that will shave hair and cut paper -which one would you choose for edge quality?

Or would you be better off with something like CPM 154CM?

Thanks.

:confused:
 
CPM154 since the carbides are finer and more evenly distributed.
 
I don't buy it. I'm sure it has more to do with edge geometry and heat treat than steel type. D2 is a die making steel and wouldn't be if it didn't hold an edge. Also, some of the all-time great knifemakers are stiil using it with great success. Dave
 
I suspect the heat treat and/or the geometry of the blade profile. D2 is used in wood planer blades as well as the paper cutting industry. The thickness of the blade and sharpening geometry is really important. Thin blade vs thick blade argument. Would you rather shave with an axe or a razor? Something to think about when grinding the blade. Look at the great old blades that elderly people have used for most of their lives, they are thin, very thin. Now go to Walmart and look at the blades they sell now. They have the same profile as an axe.

I called Paul Bos once and ask him what the best knife steel is, his reply "They are all good"
 
I've found there is little out there that compares to D2 for overall edge holding. I prefer D2 over S30V, ATS34 and 154CM by a long shot actually and really find myself wanting that steel more than any other. Most of my more favored EDC knives are in that steel.

STR
 
I suspect the heat treat and/or the geometry of the blade profile. D2 is used in wood planer blades as well as the paper cutting industry. The thickness of the blade and sharpening geometry is really important. Thin blade vs thick blade argument. Would you rather shave with an axe or a razor? Something to think about when grinding the blade. Look at the great old blades that elderly people have used for most of their lives, they are thin, very thin. Now go to Walmart and look at the blades they sell now. They have the same profile as an axe.

I called Paul Bos once and ask him what the best knife steel is, his reply "They are all good"

What he said :D There is whole lot more to this than the steel being used.

I get better performance from W2, 1086M and 01 over the high alloy stuff.
 
You've GOT to listen when the Makers speak.

And I have no D2. But that's easy to fix.

Thanks, as always, for the expert, practical advice!:)

EDIT: And I'm thinking 'Dozier.'
 
Here's the knife I made:

IMG_1935.jpg


It's hollow ground to 0.015", Paul Bos heat treated it to HRC 61.

Maybe I'm just picky, but it seems like ATS-34 takes a better edge. D2 will hold an edge, but maybe they're right -the edge quality aint so great.

I also made a convex ground tanto from 1095 heat treated it myself, tempered at 375, and that takes a better edge too. Won't cut as long as D2, but just glides through everything like butter. And after cutting paper, cardboard, etc. still easily shaves hair.

I spent the last year making well over 2 dozen knives from D2 and thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread -but making a few knives from ATS-34 and simple carbon steels like 1095 and O1 -I'm kinda confused. Don't get me wrong, I like D2, it does hold an edge for quite a while, but that edge isn't "scary sharp" for a long time. :confused:
 
It's been my experience that NO knife steel holds up to much cardboard cutting.
 
I recently found out the hard way that D2 edge retention can vary greatly according to who you get the steel from. To the tune of 15 blades that were tempered by Paul.
 
Flatgrinder, regardless of the steel, that is some very nice clean work!:thumbup:

Im with Brett! That is a clean knife. I think it would be interesting to make identical knives with a dozen popular steels and do a cutting test. I dont see that you did anything wrong so it must be the steel? Again, Nice Knife
 
any steel can get sharp...but the heart of the edge is in the HT...D2 like any other steel can get scary sharp it all depends on who is sharpening the knife edge geometery is important...D2 takes a Great edge if the person doing it knows what they are doing...D2 gets screaming sharp and stays that way..I would put it up against any newer higher end steels out there when it comes to takeing and holding and edge..if the knife is not getting that "scary sharp" edge it is the maker not doing there part not the steel.D2 has been around a long time and look at some of the top makers out there that are using it...Dozier...Brend...just to name a few..there is a reason why they are using it.;)
 
I solved my problem.

I went to Dozier's forum and read up on how he sharpens his knives. 120 grit, stropped with polishing compound ... tried it and now they're sharp!! :thumbup:

(I was honing it to a mirror finish, D2 likes a toothy edge -not a highly polished one).

I'm a happy camper now. :) Hope this info's helpful to others.
 
Well...that was easy. :D

Works on other steels too (I've used the method on O1 and S30V). Learned it from Tom Krein, who got it from Dozier.


For those reading...the 120 grit is a spent belt...not a new one.

Regarding the "toothy edge" vs. the polished edge...if you're buffing with compound, you're polishing...every edge is "jagged" under the microscope....just the degree of smoothness varies. So, I like to refer to this sharpening method as "polished teeth" rather than "toothy".

YMMV
0.02
 
OK that makes sense. I know Wayne Goddard likes a toothy edge instead of a polished shaving edge. He demonstrated slicing rope with a toothy edge compared to a polished edge at the Oregon Show. The toothy edge wouldnt shave hair but it out-cut the polished edge about 2 to 1.

There is so much to know and so little time
 
That's a good point Bruce. Just because a blade isn't shaving hair doesn't mean it's not sharp.
Scott
 
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