Damaskus/Damasteel

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Natlek

Joined
Jun 9, 2015
Messages
6,182
I buy several piece of Damasteel , now they are on hardening. I will get them back next week. I bought some expensive mosaic pins for them / 40 Euro for 7.5cm length and 10mm Dia./ and Ironwood for scales .Now I have seen that where I bought all this there is also Corby rivet from Damasteel ???? And i like them more the that mosaic pins ! 10 euro each and they are 6mm Dia. which i like now more then that 10mm barrel I buy .
I know that to show pattern damascus /damasteel need to be etch and that was some kind of surface oxide .
So ,HOW durable is that visible pattern on blade in use ? I don t care about pattern on blade , I care about Damasteel pins which will be rubbed with hand in use and if pattern disappear I can t bring it back and I don t see any point to use them ?
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Not sure if this'll help you, Natlek, but if it were me, I'd probably use a product called GunKote for those. It's a bake on enamel available here in the USA.
 
weo said:
Not sure if this'll help you, Natlek, but if it were me, I'd probably use a product called GunKote for those. It's a bake on enamel available here in the USA.
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I google that GunKote , how and where should I use that in this knives ?
On my son bike I have install cerakote exhaust but i can t see how that coat i can use on this knives I plan to make ?
 
Natlek said:
how and where should I use that in this knives
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Your OP said your main concern was the pins, so that's what I was thinking of.
How I've used it on my damascus chess pieces is: Etch enough for a decent topography, spray them with black gunkote, bake it on, sand off the high spots with high grit paper, then spray and bake the entire piece with either flat or satin gunkote as a final sealer.
If there was any food safe testing on this product, I'd probably use it on my kitchen knives too.
 
weo said:
Your OP said your main concern was the pins, so that's what I was thinking of.
How I've used it on my damascus chess pieces is: Etch enough for a decent topography, spray them with black gunkote, bake it on, sand off the high spots with high grit paper, then spray and bake the entire piece with either flat or satin gunkote as a final sealer.
If there was any food safe testing on this product, I'd probably use it on my kitchen knives too.
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Thanks my friend , that makes sense and would work , I didn't even think about that .
Maybe I can try the same on the blade ? I have to buy the whole package of GunKote anyway
 
eric brinkerhoff said:
Yes, the Corbys. You have a link?
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Yes I have . But I think I will get in trouble if I put it here .It is knife maker shop from Austria . Maybe if some moderator allowed that so everyone can see it ? I think that my e-mail is visible on my Account details , use that if that is OK ? I never read rules here , I just follow my logic what I can do here what i should not do :)

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Daniel Carraher said:
Damasteel can be etched deep and still look bright and polished.
The topography is visible and can be felt. It would take significant sanding to make pattern not visible

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I like it , beautiful ! So far I have only this chemicals to follow this video about etch Damasteel .I am searching to find ferric chloride right now in EU , in Macedonia nada!!!! No more even acetone in stores !! What you use for that , if you want to explain the process ?
 
I always wondered why no one had introduced DAMASTEEL Corby bolts, even considered turning my own on the mini lathe. Then realized the pain in the ass it would be to etch the bolts after finishing the handles. Having said that, COOL!!!!!!!
 
I use other stainless damascus brand, I guess the procedure is pretty similar. After polishing the blade I dip it in muriatic acid (HCl) diluted at 20% from what I buy at the store and then heat it to 70C, if it bubbles there is etching going on. In a well ventilated area take it out every 15min and remove the etch dust, in an hour it should have a decent depth of etch.

Pablo

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Natlek said:
Yes I have . But I think I will get in trouble if I put it here .It is knife maker shop from Austria . Maybe if some moderator allowed that so everyone can see it ? I think that my e-mail is visible on my Account details , use that if that is OK ? I never read rules here , I just follow my logic what I can do here what i should not do :)

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There is no rule against linking products you use from what i know. You are not selling your knives or marketing your own products.
Natlek said:
I like it , beautiful ! So far I have only this chemicals to follow this video about etch Damasteel .I am searching to find ferric chloride right now in EU , in Macedonia nada!!!! No more even acetone in stores !! What you use for that , if you want to explain the process ?
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Here the link to feric cl.
https://www.conrad.at/de/p/bungard-fe3cl-eisen-3-chlorid-inhalt-1-l-530736.html
I can try sending it to you, but i am not sure of the rules of this stuff regarding border crossing.

If you dont find muriatic acid to dilute, check the pool and drain/pipe cleaners, they should have some percentage of it.
 
navman said:
I always wondered why no one had introduced DAMASTEEL Corby bolts, even considered turning my own on the mini lathe. Then realized the pain in the ass it would be to etch the bolts after finishing the handles. Having said that, COOL!!!!!!!
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:)
Well , I have some plan how to do that .I will work on five Damasteel and five in CPM S30V steel , all of them same dimension/shape and full tang.On one from S30 / or other one from mild steel/ I will shape wooden handles for all five from Damasteel to keep etch on spine of tang/handle . Something similar I plan for pins but with cheap wood not ironwood . Shape them on cheap wood scale , destroy wood scale take pins off etch and use them on real scale ...I will glue scale so pins don t need to be very tight screwed.We shall see , I think that would work for pins with some gun glue or rubber to screw them .
 
FredyCro said:
There is no rule against linking products you use from what i know. You are not selling your knives or marketing your own products.

Here the link to feric cl.
https://www.conrad.at/de/p/bungard-fe3cl-eisen-3-chlorid-inhalt-1-l-530736.html
I can try sending it to you, but i am not sure of the rules of this stuff regarding border crossing.

If you dont find muriatic acid to dilute, check the pool and drain/pipe cleaners, they should have some percentage of it.
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Thanks Fredy , my brother is coming next week here . We ordered today it from Conrad , back in time i bought a lot of things from them, I still keep their catalogs somewhere .About muriatic acid , do you have some link where can i buy it in Austria ?
That thing is quite expensive ???

Reagecon Dilute Hydrochloric Acid 1Lt Bottle | Silmid

Dilute Hydrochloric Acid 1Lt Bottle, bulk discounts available. This product can be purchased online from Silmid.
www.silmid.com www.silmid.com
 
Please post the link to the seller of those Corby style bolts.

My concern is that once the bolts are installed and sanded flush, there is no way to etch them to get deep topography without destroying the scales. The sanded and polished pattern will show faintly, but not like it is when etched.
There is one alternative, which is to cut the slot in the heads deep enough so it will allow removal after sanding. Then you can etch the ends and re-install them in the handle. The final polishing of the handle should not affect the etch if done gently.
 
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