Damaskus/Damasteel

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Please post the link to the seller of those Corby style bolts.

My concern is that once the bolts are installed and sanded flush, there is no way to etch them to get deep topography without destroying the scales. The sanded and polished pattern will show faintly, but not like it is when etched.
There is one alternative, which is to cut the slot in the heads deep enough so it will allow removal after sanding. Then you can etch the ends and re-install them in the handle. The final polishing of the handle should not affect the etch if done gently.
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I already posted that link but here it is again , i don't know what i was thinking when I bought that mammoth pins which are 10mm Dia . Now I think that they are to big size for this knives ...

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You just give me idea about pins .It will work for me because I will not pay anything to do that .I can do on EDM torx on both head on pins , then after I sand them in final dimension I can do etch . I will try first what I already posted in previous post , I think it can be done that way .
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Please post the link to the seller of those Corby style bolts.

My concern is that once the bolts are installed and sanded flush, there is no way to etch them to get deep topography without destroying the scales. The sanded and polished pattern will show faintly, but not like it is when etched.
There is one alternative, which is to cut the slot in the heads deep enough so it will allow removal after sanding. Then you can etch the ends and re-install them in the handle. The final polishing of the handle should not affect the etch if done gently.
Click to expand...
Might that depend on what the scales are made of?
 
eric brinkerhoff said:
Damasteel cutlers rivets would be the answer.
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As far as I know Damasteel and damascus need to be hardened to show pattern ?
I ordered them , I have time to find which way would be best . I can try some idea with ordinary stainless Corby bolts in same dimension .Now I need to make call ,someone will have to make them these days 🤣
 
eric brinkerhoff said:
Can't wait to see the knife you come up with, Mr. Natlek!
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Me to Eric , plan is to laser cut a dozen blanks in mild steel for practicing and adjusting the grinder and jig .When I set up the jig exactly the way I want, I will grind a few in mild steel and right after that all five in Damasteel . While I am concentrated and my brain and hands are doing what needs to be done :)There is no room for any error this time ;) For those in Damasteel I plan hollow grind , I think pattern would show up better then full flat grind , what do you think ?
 
Natlek said:
Me to Eric , plan is to laser cut a dozen blanks in mild steel for practicing and adjusting the grinder and jig .When I set up the jig exactly the way I want, I will grind a few in mild steel and right after that all five in Damasteel . While I am concentrated and my brain and hands are doing what needs to be done :)There is no room for any error this time ;) For those in Damasteel I plan hollow grind , I think pattern would show up better then full flat grind , what do you think ?
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You have to be careful with damasteel. Some of the patterns disappear when you grind into the steel. A deep hollow might leave you with pattern (think raindrop) only at the top and very laminar towards the edge. Depends on whether you like the look.
 
fitzo said:
You have to be careful with damasteel. Some of the patterns disappear when you grind into the steel. A deep hollow might leave you with pattern (think raindrop) only at the top and very laminar towards the edge. Depends on whether you like the look.
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Now that is bad news my friend ,thank you for mentioning. This is my first contact with steel like this .Grinding wheel is 17 inch , bevels something like this on picture ? That blade is very close for what I plan to grind ? New will be just little longer .On picture knife is 5mm thick on spine , Damasteel are all 4mm thick . What do you think ?
zyjiWeD.jpg
 
I think I would definitely stay away from raindrop pattern. I see the loss of pattern to just straight layers all the time on those Damasteel blades.
I'd sacrifice a 1/4" or so of my billet length cutting a big old hollow into it, etch, and see what happens to the pattern before I committed to the whole blade.
But that's just me. I'd also spend a little time on Instagram looking at knives made from different Damasteel patterns to get a better idea how they perform.
Good luck. Stuff looks very nice when it's etched nicely.
 
fitzo said:
I think I would definitely stay away from raindrop pattern. I see the loss of pattern to just straight layers all the time on those Damasteel blades.
I'd sacrifice a 1/4" or so of my billet length cutting a big old hollow into it, etch, and see what happens to the pattern before I committed to the whole blade.
But that's just me. I'd also spend a little time on Instagram looking at knives made from different Damasteel patterns to get a better idea how they perform.
Good luck. Stuff looks very nice when it's etched nicely.
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I can t try that , all piece are on exact dimension I need for knives . I will try to find some hollow done on web to see how they look .WTF , if I need i will make much bigger wheel just for this !
 
Natlek said:
I can t try that , all piece are on exact dimension I need for knives . I will try to find some hollow done on web to see how they look .WTF , if I need i will make much bigger wheel just for this !
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I recently purchased platens giving 36" (91mm), 48" (122mm) and 72" (183mm) diameter arcs. The hollow they cut is rather addicting. I utilize a chiller on the platen to keep things cool. You could do this in your shop, what with your handiness.

I should add: I have a piece of Damasteel in my stuff that is at least a dozen years old. It was early on with this stuff. When I saw what happened to the raindrop pattern when ground I put my 3/16" bar in the drawer and it's been there since. I've seen knives where one can make that effect look good. Stan Buzek uses the stuff well. Ask him for tips.
 
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fitzo said:
I recently purchased platens giving 36" (91mm), 48" (122mm) and 72" (183mm) diameter arcs. The hollow they cut is rather addicting. I utilize a chiller on the platen to keep things cool. You could do this in your shop, what with your handiness.

I should add: I have a piece of Damasteel in my stuff that is at least a dozen years old. It was early on with this stuff. When I saw what happened to the raindrop pattern when ground I put my 3/16" bar in the drawer and it's been there since. I've seen knives where one can make that effect look good. Stan Buzek uses the stuff well. Ask him for tips.
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Thanks for help my friend , if you hadn't gotten involved I don't know what would have come out of this expensive project :thumbsup: I have two big wheels , one is 32 other is 40 inch .They are in my friend shop waiting to be done some work on them on lathe so other company then can put rubber on them .Problem is that there is only one lathe that can handle this size wheel and they have on that lathe some setup and they work on a large series of heavy parts .I already wait on that lathe several months :mad:
 
Natlek
im thinking you should be able to etch the "Corby bolts" after you install them .. etch with 150 degree muratic acid..
just make sure to neutralize it after etching..
that is the biggest problem how to put them on ,mark how long it will be when finished ,how to take them apart and put them back together??
 
What about a resist ring surrounding the bolt? Like a build up of hot glue that can be peeled away, making a pool for the etchant. Etch the bolt deep, finish polish with a high grit as with the rest of the handle.
 
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