DC drive w/AC motor?

You need to slow down anvilring, it sounds like your set that just by getting a new vfd your problems will go away.
first, having 220 outlets doesn't mean you have 220. did you see what the supply voltage is directly inside the vfd?
your brushes could be worn or shot. it could be a few things making this grinder not run correctly.
replacing motors and vfd's is an expensive way to fix things.
I think you need to take Stacy's advice and have a qualified electrician that's familiar with DC motors come by and look at what you have before you start replacing high dollar components.
 
bladegrinder said:
You need to slow down anvilring, it sounds like your set that just by getting a new vfd your problems will go away.
first, having 220 outlets doesn't mean you have 220. did you see what the supply voltage is directly inside the vfd?
your brushes could be worn or shot. it could be a few things making this grinder not run correctly.
replacing motors and vfd's is an expensive way to fix things.
I think you need to take Stacy's advice and have a qualified electrician that's familiar with DC motors come by and look at what you have before you start replacing high dollar components.
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We are talking about DC motor controllers, not VFDs. Honestly, I don't see a plausible scenario where a 220V outlet would be wired for 110V.

To figure out whether wiring up a new DC controller is something you want to take on, just download the manual and spend a little bit of time reading through it. That will tell you very quickly.
 
So, it's not plausible to have a 220 volt outlet with one leg dropped out leaving 110 volts? I know I've seen it before.
I've seen whole houses lose a leg coming in from the power company. I'm only trying to say anvilring should thoroughly examine his supply voltage to his equipment before throwing in the towel and just replacing things. it doesn't matter if it's a DC controller or a vfd.
 
bladegrinder said:
So, it's not plausible to have a 220 volt outlet with one leg dropped out leaving 110 volts? I know I've seen it before.
I've seen whole houses lose a leg coming in from the power company. I'm only trying to say anvilring should thoroughly examine his supply voltage to his equipment before throwing in the towel and just replacing things. it doesn't matter if it's a DC controller or a vfd.
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It is my opinion that it isn't plausible since he has a working grinder on the 220V circuit and the grinder that is not working is connected to 110V according to the information he gave in the other threads. Talking about VFDs just adds more confusion, especially since the KBAC27D came up earlier.
 
One last question from/about Hubert S.' post #10:

why is one of these a full $100 bux more that the other one? One is KBPW, and the other is KBPC.
Other than that, I can't see any difference.

https://www.kb-controls.com/product.sc?productId=112&categoryId=4

https://www.kb-controls.com/product.sc?productId=13&categoryId=4

I "may" use it w/the 90v motor first and see how that goes, but I will go w/the 1.5hp I have in reserve if need be. These both will do that. Wo what is the extra $ for in the KBPW for?
On Amazon, the KBPC is $100 bux more that on the KB website as well.

https://www.amazon.com/KBPC-240D-KB...ords=KBPC-240D,+KB&qid=1603126460&s=hi&sr=1-1
Again, I don't get the pricing.

From Motor & Control:

https://motorsandcontrol.com/kb-ele...2hbC4anAOkT7kuAh0gVEobIqMo2htzVoaAoAIEALw_wcB

edit: I called Motor & Control and the real difference that apparently counts is that the W controller is set up w/some exta electronics so as to be ok w/rapid start and stop on a continuous basis. So constant belt changing
KBPW-240D
for that. I've ordered the W model.
 
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The only difference I can see is that the W is a PWM drive and the C version is an SCR drive. I don't really know why you would want one over the other. I looked at the manual for your Baldor drive, and I think that is an SCR. Probably best to go with what the experts recommend. When you wire the drive, make sure to use dust proof cable glands with that nice new NEMA4 enclosure.

I still see the C version on amazon for $195.30 with prime shipping.
 
I pulled the cover on the wiring box for my new horse and a half Reliance motor, and there's four wires in here; two black two white. The white ones are tagged P1 and P2, so my question is which one of these four/two wires go where in my new box? It says in the manual that L1 and L2 are the AC power connections.









 
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anvilring said:
I pulled the cover on the wiring box for my new horse and a half Reliance motor, and there's four wires in here; two black two white. The white ones are tagged P1 and P2, so my question is which one of these four/two wires go where in my new box? It says in the manual that L1 and L2 are the AC power connections.









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Can you find the manual for the motor online? I cannot read the model number in the pictures you posted in the other thread.
 
Apparently that P1 and P2 went to a thermostat control? So I can just cap them off and not use them I'm thinking.


 
Ok... abject failure.
I got my new DC controller set up and wired to my 2500 rpm dc motor, bored out the drive wheel to 7/8ths, put a belt on it... and I can stop it just like I could stop the 1hp although it takes a little more force. it runs fine w/o load. I can do video if anyone's interested. Add insult to injury; if I/when I bear down on grinding a good bit the motor/controller goes into overload and just stops altogether. I realize this isn't an ideal grinder motor (low rpms) but I didn't expect this. I haven't tried to adjust the torque setting on the controller but, it didn't help w/the 1hp leeson at all.

So; I'm going to scrap this altogether and just buy a new ac setup. Is this one a good deal? I'd like a Lesson motor since they're made here in the States.... it's an 1800rpm motor.

https://indsencon.com/products/kb-e...hp-ac-motor-made-in-usa?variant=1028357750797 they're on backorder.

Heres' the same it w/a 3600rpm kit: although I think it's just the controller that makes that difference in rpms.

https://indsencon.com/products/ac-d...245005&pr_ref_pid=107957420045&pr_seq=uniform

I'm getting (either way) a KB27D controller to go with this.
 
anvilring said:
Heres' the same it w/a 3600rpm kit: although I think it's just the controller that makes that difference in rpms.
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The controller is not what is making the difference in RPM's , one motor is 1800 rpm and the other motor is 3600 rpm's . The controller can double those numbers IF you set it up that way.
 
Spalted... Yes I get it. That's why you'll never see this motor in particular valued at/up to almost 7,000 RPM. every place that I've checked for these where they are for sale, they clearly state that it is a matter of set up to get that higher RPM. Frankly I don't think you need it, still though it begs the question why in the hell is my 2500 RPM DC motor such a POS. With a flat platin on the machine, I can push a piece of eighth inch stock into it enough to just stop the damn thing. I give up.
 
That motor might be a pos but did you look to see what a new one cost? 1400.00 :eek:
Did you do anything with the brushes?
 
Well no actually, it's occurred to me I need to look at that... I'll have a look and report back. I got this motor with another two horsepower AC motor that I've rigged up for my outdoor grinder which of course works like a champ. paid $150 for both motors back in the day.
 
The motors you linked are both 56C frame. If you bored out the drive wheel to 7/8", a 56C motor will require a new wheel because they have a 5/8" shaft. I think there is a standard motor with a compatible face mount bolt pattern and 7/8" shaft. I think it may be 145C, but I could be wrong on that.

If I remember right, your wheel is 8" diameter. With a wheel that big, 2,500 rpm is more than plenty. I would go with an 1,800 rpm motor and overdrive it a little bit.
 
Have a look, pretty discouraging actually. On the motor plate, it says this is a 2,500 RPM motor - 7/8 in shaft. Have no idea why this is acting like it is. I have 220 v from that outlet. Go figure.


 
I like the video, at least you can still laugh about it. What are the chances that a different drive and a different motor would produce the same problem? I'm wondering if it could be something mechanical, maybe seized bearings on the platen wheels? Just out of curiosity, how easy is it to move the belt by hand when it is tensioned?
 
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