Dealbreakers

These are all good points, but let's remember we are not talking hard facts here, just personal preferences. There are no right and wrong answers. You buy/make what you like.

John
 
Just one more thing to add to this very interesting and informative thread that caught my eye moments ago as I read a description of a very nice Mike Ruth hunter.
" Matched Scales " seems to be something which is very often proudly stated in knife descriptions. This of course generally applies to two piece; frame or mortised handle material.
I'm wondering how big of a deal is this to collectors? Would a miss match cause you to pass on an otherwise excellent piece?
I don't mind miss match scales as long as they both appeal to me and are of good quality. As a matter of fact, I like flipping a knife and being a little surprised. It’s almost like getting two knives for the price of one. :confused: :D
 
Just one more thing to add to this very interesting and informative thread that caught my eye moments ago as I read a description of a very nice Mike Ruth hunter.
" Matched Scales " seems to be something which is very often proudly stated in knife descriptions. This of course generally applies to two piece handle material.
I'm wondering how big of a deal is this to collectors? Would a miss match cause you to pass on an otherwise excellent piece?
I don't mind miss match scales as long as they both appeal to me and are of good quality. As a matter of fact, I like flipping a knife and being a little surprised. It’s almost like getting two knives for the price of one. :confused: :D

I'd put it in the preference category, but not a deal-breaker, assuming we are talking about scales of equal quality, just different looking. Even if they are of equal quality, the greater the difference in appearance from one side to the other (colour, texture), the more likely I am to pass. My concept of "well matched" allows for variations to be expected in natural materials, but indicates a preference for pieces that, while not twins, at least look like they could be brothers.

Roger
 
If the scales match, I like them to REALLY match. I try to offset matching scales to allow the grain to flow like this:
spine.jpg
 
I should add that an exception to my "well-matched" preference would be where a maker deliberately chooses contrasting scales as a design element, such as on this terrific "Celtic Dichotomy" folder by Ed Schemp (Bladegallery pic):

orig.jpg


Roger
 
Cool variations.

I mentioned in another thread that I am not partial to bead-blast finishes, especially on bolsters or areas that may touch the surface when placed down.

I understand it's a perfectly good working knife finish. But if you have an eye out for keeping it minty, it is SOOOO fragile that any little scar or rub mark causes the value (to me) to drop fast and hard.

Coop
 
Walking up to a custom makers table and finding rust on his knives.

Seen it with 2 different makers at local shows, if they won't even take care of their knives pre-sale, I don't want one from them.
 
Coop and Bruce,

Sorry for not being clear.

I mean on a nice hand-rubbed or damascus blade, a wide (I know this is subjective) line along the edge where the knife has been belt sharpened. Think of a 1/8" silver stripe along the edge of an otherwise beautiful damascus bowie. Or, put another way, look at pictures of all the high-end forged blades you really like and try to find a visible secondary bevel (sharpening line). You will have a hard time because almost all of the really top makers take their knives to sharp as part of the hand finishing process, then only use a stone to put on the final touches, which should be invisible unless the knife is with you and under careful inspection.

Bright Red,

I see what you're saying, but with that attitude I could also say that the knife is going to get scratched up the first time I use it, so why not accept it new from the maker with a bunch of scratches?

John
So you mean one of those rough "washboard" edge bevels like you see on a lot of factory stainless knives?
 
Back
Top