Deals for 2/24 -- Pix and usual steals.

No I think I'm the one that is confused, sorry.:foot: Although, can mineral oil be used on horn?
 
You guys have me somewhat confused. Do a search for the thread called Handle Treatment. Dave Rishar does a drawn out description of his process for each handle type. Its a goodun. I use mineral oil then Danish oil on my horn khukuris. For antler I use carnuba wax only. For wood I use danish oil, and sometimes Tru-Oil after the Danish Oil has THOROUGHLY dried (several days). I am not the expert here gents, they are Steve Ferguson and Dave Rishar. If you want to know for sure get it from the horses.........:D
 
mineral oil definitely won't hurt anything, but some people aren't sure how effective it is on horn and antler.
 
aproy1101 said:
You guys have me somewhat confused. Do a search for the thread called Handle Treatment. Dave Rishar does a drawn out description of his process for each handle type. Its a goodun. I use mineral oil then Danish oil on my horn khukuris. For antler I use carnuba wax only. For wood I use danish oil, and sometimes Tru-Oil after the Danish Oil has THOROUGHLY dried (several days). I am not the expert here gents, they are Steve Ferguson and Dave Rishar. If you want to know for sure get it from the horses.........:D
Click to expand...

i just tried some searches and the page comes up blank - i mean white - nothing, no html. broken. dang.

bladite
 
oh noes! YIKES - pulled out the horn handled kukris (just three) to examine them and ponder this mineral oil thing - the baby GRS has spontaneously generated two obvious cracks about an inch long and DEEP right near the bolster - am attempting to glue them up with some superglue, and they are wicking the glue down a lot. thirsty! i hope they become stable.

the BAS looks fine, and the AK has micro cracks that might be due to the material and/or whatever - i don't think they'll go anywhere being "surface". all three have some kind of yellow line near the top spine that looks like "grain". not sure what's up with that. it's not a crack, that i can tell, just color.

horn just doesn't like me i guess. go wood. wasn't looking for ANOTHER project, but rehandling this might be interesting if the worst happens - wanted this to be my end all be all hiking kukri - save the big one for camp.

the sarki shop isn't in the business anymore, right?

#
 
Keep wicking in the super glue. Once you get a good bit in there start sanding between wickings and letting the dust collect in the crack with the super glue. That'll fix it, but you may be able to see the crack. The other option is to color some epoxy and fill it that way. DON'T USE 5 MIN EPOXY FOR THIS APPLICATION. Horn is translucent when thin, that's what the yellow is as far as I can tell from the description. Treat your horn handled khuks with mineral oil and danish oil to prevent cracks. I'll find the thread for you.
 
aproy1101 said:
Keep wicking in the super glue. Once you get a good bit in there start sanding between wickings and letting the dust collect in the crack with the super glue. That'll fix it, but you may be able to see the crack. The other option is to color some epoxy and fill it that way. DON'T USE 5 MIN EPOXY FOR THIS APPLICATION. Horn is translucent when thin, that's what the yellow is as far as I can tell from the description. Treat your horn handled khuks with mineral oil and danish oil to prevent cracks. I'll find the thread for you.
Click to expand...

yah, have been doing the wicking and sanding. crack 1 dried overnite and almost doesn't wick at all, crack 2 is now setting up. i hit the craft store last nite and got 1 oz of CA glue for $4 - oddly enough - karma? :P

i have hour long epoxy too - but the CA seems better; the new CA i bought is "gap filling" and medium-thick, so not as runny but still wicks. not terribly worried about the appearance; a bit of sanding later to improve grip will help a lot.

guess i'm off to the dollar store to buy a gallon of oil. much soaking.

a blade maker friend says that he coats his blades with a 50/50 mixture of mineral-oil and beeswax. traditional. another uses clove-oil to protect the metal - big bottle - not food grade - somewhat cheap.

thanx for looking for the link; bf search still fails over here - happens from time to time, then it works fine. google couldn't find anything either.

bladite
 
aproy1101 said:
Got it. Searching is always a pain for me too, but if you goto the advanced search section and are really patient...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371806
Click to expand...

search eventually works. i figure. my google-fu is very good. everything IS on the web. just have to find it. thank you.

went to the store, got 4 bottles of mineral oil - the clerk boggled :)

hit hobby store - got zap-flex-gap for wounds, and a 2oz bottle of CA glue for handles, and other thingies.

now to read, and soak, i expect.

bladite
 
Watco will do it. Four coats with 8-10 hours between will seal horn so that it won't crack.
FIrst, seal the cracks with superglue, then use Watco. It may help to leave the stuff on for at least an hour before you wipe off the excess.

I got the idea to use Watco on horn from Erik Estus, a bladesmith.

It works, but 2 coats may not be enough.
 
arty said:
Watco will do it. Four coats with 8-10 hours between will seal horn so that it won't crack.
FIrst, seal the cracks with superglue, then use Watco. It may help to leave the stuff on for at least an hour before you wipe off the excess.

I got the idea to use Watco on horn from Erik Estus, a bladesmith.

It works, but 2 coats may not be enough.
Click to expand...

will minxwax tun oil finish work? i have that.

not sure where to go locally to secure "watco danish oil" yet. will keep eye out.

that url above lists so many ways to do things, it's confusing.

i also have various supplies for maintaining boots, like mink oil, other oils, snowseal, and so on. hell, is there any reason to not dip a handle in molten parafin and let THAT soak in?

ooh - how about acrylic stabilized horn? i imagine that would really do the trick.

too bad the kamis can't get their hand on the famous micarta buffalo :)

bladite
 
I get Watco's from woodworking stores like Woodcraft or Rockler. I don't know about tung oil specifically.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top