Deer hunting TRADITIONAL fixed blade suggestions

[Chui]

- it's an interesting question, and, as @Grateful has said, even the modest Buck Vanguard would do a very good job, a most handsome and efficient knife.

Would suggest though, you enjoy the journey reaching your solution.

Try, if you can, as many different knives as possible. If you know someone who could do with some help dressing deer, take a few along and try them.

Some years ago I helped someone and took a few along - among which was a Guild Knife Show winner - a Rob Brown Loveless d-p hunter.

The best performing one knife was this Buck Skinner...

...and I'd suggest it was so because it was the sharpest..!

Another I have enjoyed using and it was highly proficient, was this skinner from George Muller in South Africa..........don't know what it is about so many makers from SA, but they seem so good at ultra-thin hollow ground - and this one was spectacular

For smaller stuff, one of the nicest used was this neat one from Guy Stainthorp in UK (the deer can be smaller here..!) ...

The most used of all is this s/hand Seizo Imai d-p hunter I bought from a friend who'd dressed many deer - again, a very well thin ground hollow blade...

This last one was a commission, yet to be used - another from Guy Stainthorp (he hunts too) in very sharp San-Mai, and I'm itchin' to try it out...

..........Guy's most famous deer knife is his Capreolous

************************

Appreciate there's some variations here on the traditional, but they all do great jobs

Enjoy the journey, and have fun choosing yours

And don't forget, you're allowed more than one

 

[Whetstone39]

I don't have a Buck Vanguard, but I do think that is a good happy medium for skinning deer. Every type of blade has it's pros and cons. I like blades a bit longer than the Vanguard, but that's just me. The upswept blades have more belly for the actual skinning, and are pointier, but are not at a comfortable angle to use the point (you have to break your wrist down to use the point) and are prone to catching on intestines when opening the body cavity. Clip points usually don't have a lot of belly unless they are upswept. A relatively wide drop point, but with a good sharp point gives you enough belly for skinning, but puts the point in line with the handle making it more comfortable to use the point, and the lowered point is not as likely to snag on intestines.

Agreed Doc, thanks for replying. I have field dressed probably a dozen at least, using different blade types, they all worked, some better than others.

The sheaths are good quality. Nice looking and very serviceable. I feel like they are safe to wear. They hold the knife well and if you were to slip and fall I think they offer good protection from cutting or accidentally stabbing yourselve.

Thanks for replying Grateful, the leather sheath currently on the Buck site looks very nice.

I'll 2nd the suggestion on the Buck Vangard. I used one with a gut hook for years on at least a couple dozen deer. Made for a good skinner as well as a field dressing knife. Traded it to a friend a couple years ago cause I wanted to use something
'prettier'. lol
Lots of knives will do what you need in the field on deer, the Vanguard is an all around good pick in my experience.

Thanks sunknife, the reason I am looking at traditional knives only is they are far prettier (to me) than the utilitarian fixed blades I have now lol.

 

[Whetstone39]

- it's an interesting question, and, as @Grateful has said, even the modest Buck Vanguard would do a very good job, a most handsome and efficient knife.

Would suggest though, you enjoy the journey reaching your solution.

Try, if you can, as many different knives as possible. If you know someone who could do with some help dressing deer, take a few along and try them.

Some years ago I helped someone and took a few along - among which was a Guild Knife Show winner - a Rob Brown Loveless d-p hunter.

The best performing one knife was this Buck Skinner...

...and I'd suggest it was so because it was the sharpest..!

Another I have enjoyed using and it was highly proficient, was this skinner from George Muller in South Africa..........don't know what it is about so many makers from SA, but they seem so good at ultra-thin hollow ground - and this one was spectacular

For smaller stuff, one of the nicest used was this neat one from Guy Stainthorp in UK (the deer can be smaller here..!) ...

The most used of all is this s/hand Seizo Imai d-p hunter I bought from a friend who'd dressed many deer - again, a very well thin ground hollow blade...

This last one was a commission, yet to be used - another from Guy Stainthorp (he hunts too) in very sharp San-Mai, and I'm itchin' to try it out...

..........Guy's most famous deer knife is his Capreolous

************************

Appreciate there's some variations here on the traditional, but they all do great jobs

Enjoy the journey, and have fun choosing yours

And don't forget, you're allowed more than one

Thanks for the suggestions and the fantastic photos Paul, very much appreciated.

 

[315]

A question on the Scandi grind: with the zero degree edge, if used enough, do you need to eventually regrind the bevels to achieve the same zero degrees? Or is there a secondary edge bevel on the Helle knives?

Not sure as I’ve never gotten to the point of needing to sharpen mine. But I would think you could take care of a lot of deer before needing to sharpen if you avoided hitting bone.

 

[Old Hunter]

Everybody is different in how they view things so (for what its worth) - I’ve cleaned pickup loads of deer in the last 40 years with all types of fixed blades and folding hunter type knives. My hands down favorite, come back to it over and over, is the Buck 118 - whether field dressing (small enough to work inside by feel), skinning (plenty of belly), or deboning meat (thin blade width works into cavities to not waste meat), to the right length (just over 4”) to not get in the way. I prefer the older style with 440C steel because I can clean several without needing to hone the edge, but I’ve used them in all the major Buck steels, they all do the job. OH

 

[Misplaced Hillbilly]

One I think seeking is a vintage Schrade pro hunter. These were a collaboration with Bob Loveless, based on his famous drop point hunter. There is a earlier model with a slightly different guard and maroon handle scales. I was lucky to find this unused one at an antique mall. Its ground to a thin fine edge, I can cut shavings so fine from a hardwood stick they float away on the breeze. Well worth the search imho.

 

[oldmanwilly]

I suggest you look for something with a drop point blade that is roughly 4 inches or more in length. I have gut, skinned, quartered, and butchered more whitetails than I can count with knives ranging from a Case medium stockman to a Cold Steel Laredo Bowie (often for fun and sometimes out of necessity). Each has worked well to get the job done. However without a doubt, I overwhelmingly prefer a drop point fixed blade similar to the Schrade shown above or, as previously mentioned, the Buck Vanguard or Loveless style. The combination of (i) the wide, flat or hollow ground blade, (ii) the sturdy but serviceable drop point, and (iii) handle slightly angled downward makes this style of knife tailor made for your stated tasks.

Some brand and/or maker options that come to mind include:
- Buck (Vanguard)
- Loveless
- Knives of Alaska (Alpha Wolf or similar)
- Bob Dozier (makes Loveless-style knives)
- Hess Knives
- Ian Van Reenan
- Behring Made
- ESEE (not exactly traditional, but could be close if you remove the coating and slap on wooden handle scales)

Of course you should get as many as you can afford and try them out. Happy hunting!

*note that I only have experience with the Knives of Alaska, ESEE, Ian Van Reenan, and Dozier designed knives produced by Boker. I only listed the other makers as I think they have knives with comparable traits.

 

[Ripcord 82]

Well,I sort of did the same thing. I hung up my old Schade Sharpfinger that I used for 40 years and bought a Buck Vanguard on a friend's suggestion who uses his for White Tail and Elk. I think it represents your classic and is really a pretty good knife.Good looking too.

 

[Whetstone39]

Not sure as I’ve never gotten to the point of needing to sharpen mine. But I would think you could take care of a lot of deer before needing to sharpen if you avoided hitting bone.

Thanks 315, that expands the search for me but that is a good thing. Yes I will just field dress and let the professional butcher handle the rest, not a huge risk of hitting bone.

Everybody is different in how they view things so (for what its worth) - I’ve cleaned pickup loads of deer in the last 40 years with all types of fixed blades and folding hunter type knives. My hands down favorite, come back to it over and over, is the Buck 118 - whether field dressing (small enough to work inside by feel), skinning (plenty of belly), or deboning meat (thin blade width works into cavities to not waste meat), to the right length (just over 4”) to not get in the way. I prefer the older style with 440C steel because I can clean several without needing to hone the edge, but I’ve used them in all the major Buck steels, they all do the job. OH

Another vote for the 118, thanks for the reply and the great photo Bruce. I’ll likely be only field dressing one at a time, do you think the current Buck 420HC steel will hold up to that without needing honing?

One I think seeking is a vintage Schrade pro hunter. These were a collaboration with Bob Loveless, based on his famous drop point hunter. There is a earlier model with a slightly different guard and maroon handle scales. I was lucky to find this unused one at an antique mall. Its ground to a thin fine edge, I can cut shavings so fine from a hardwood stick they float away on the breeze. Well worth the search imho.

Thanks for the reply David, that is a beautiful knife. Another to add to the list

I suggest you look for something with a drop point blade that is roughly 4 inches or more in length. I have gut, skinned, quartered, and butchered more whitetails than I can count with knives ranging from a Case medium stockman to a Cold Steel Laredo Bowie (often for fun and sometimes out of necessity). Each has worked well to get the job done. However without a doubt, I overwhelmingly prefer a drop point fixed blade similar to the Schrade shown above or, as previously mentioned, the Buck Vanguard or Loveless style. The combination of (i) the wide, flat or hollow ground blade, (ii) the sturdy but serviceable drop point, and (iii) handle slightly angled downward makes this style of knife tailor made for your stated tasks.

Some brand and/or maker options that come to mind include:
- Buck (Vanguard)
- Loveless
- Knives of Alaska (Alpha Wolf or similar)
- Bob Dozier (makes Loveless-style knives)
- Hess Knives
- Ian Van Reenan
- Behring Made
- ESEE (not exactly traditional, but could be close if you remove the coating and slap on wooden handle scales)

Of course you should get as many as you can afford and try them out. Happy hunting!

*note that I only have experience with the Knives of Alaska, ESEE, Ian Van Reenan, and Dozier designed knives produced by Boker. I only listed the other makers as I think they have knives with comparable traits.

Thanks for the reply and the suggestions oldmanwilly, the Dozier Loveless-style are beautiful, and what I have seen of Hess are very appealing as well. I have never really looked at Knives of Alaska but will check them out now. The Vanguard seems very popular with the traditional crowd, it appears to be a great design.


I very much appreciate all the suggestions so far, I am considering knives I hadn’t looked at which is great.

 

[MolokaiRider]

Hope this isn’t too graphic.

I have used a 119 for many years with great success. This one I bought for my son. We cleaned this deer yesterday (private land meat hunt).

The sheath is good, the grind and steel works great, and easy to sharpen quickly. No corrosion issues either. All for a low price and industry leading warranty.



Lots of great suggestions in this thread! Good luck in your search!

 

[afishhunter]

I think the last fixed blade I used to field dress a deer was a Schrade Sharp Finger.
Last folder for that job was a Buck 110.

 

[Ron Sabbagh]

How about a very comfortable 3" drop point from Knifemakers Guild past president and traditional knife master Gene Shadley? Under $500

View attachment 1152219

 

[Pinemoon]

Not sure about your budget or steel preferences, but these two companies make excellent blades.

Bark River
Arno Bernard

 

[Whetstone39]

Well,I sort of did the same thing. I hung up my old Schade Sharpfinger that I used for 40 years and bought a Buck Vanguard on a friend's suggestion who uses his for White Tail and Elk. I think it represents your classic and is really a pretty good knife.Good looking too.

Thanks Ripcord, the Vanguard seems to be well respected, for good reason.

Hope this isn’t too graphic.

I have used a 119 for many years with great success. This one I bought for my son. We cleaned this deer yesterday (private land meat hunt).

The sheath is good, the grind and steel works great, and easy to sharpen quickly. No corrosion issues either. All for a low price and industry leading warranty.

View attachment 1152218

Lots of great suggestions in this thread! Good luck in your search!

Thanks for the “in action” photo MR, that is a heck of an endorsement

How about a very comfortable 3" drop point from Knifemakers Guild past president and traditional knife master Gene Shadley? Under $500

View attachment 1152219

Thanks Ron, Yowza that is a gorgeous blade

Not sure about your budget or steel preferences, but these two companies make excellent blades.

Bark River
Arno Bernard

Thanks Pinemoon, I have several Bark Rivers but am looking for something with a little more “character”, if that makes sense. A local knife shop carries Arno Bernard I think, those fit the bill nicely.

 

[Old Hunter]

Another vote for the 118, thanks for the reply and the great photo Bruce. I’ll likely be only field dressing one at a time, do you think the current Buck 420HC steel will hold up to that without needing honing?

I think the 420HC offered by Buck is fine - have gifted several to hunting friends and they use them regularly. I use ceramic sticks for honing SS, once sharp all you need do is keep it sharp - I rarely touch mine to a stone, the one pictured above has never seen a stone under my ownership. If you want to up your ante just a bit, the limited run Buck 118 in D2 steel was done a few years ago but are on the bay nearly constantly for about what a good used 440C will cost - there are enough out there to be no problem buying a nice one if you are just a bit patient. The D2 is another durable edge steel. There are also some Buck 118 limited runs out there in 5160 steel; I own one but have never used it. Here is my D2 variation below - I find the grip to be comfortable (not fatiguing) when working two or three whitetails in a morning. OH

 

[Elgatodeacero]

Buck 103

 

[Cambertree]

I’ve been enjoying following this thread.

Thanks for the great posts and advice, particularly Paul Chui and my friend Old Hunter .

My standby traditional fixed blade for field dressing game (mostly Sambar deer these days) is a custom 4” Loveless style drop point, in CPM S30V, made by Adam Parker, the head of the Australian Knifemakers Guild.

It has a full height hollow grind, which I’ve reground very thinly behind the edge. I tend to sharpen with a coarse edge at around 600 grit, finishing with very light passes, then give a few ultra light finishing passes on a UF ceramic rod, and a very light strop on 3, 1 and 0.5 micron CBN loaded leather, before use.

Among my hunting crew, I’m responsible for sharpening and knife maintenance. One of my good mates who leads and organises our hunts uses a Buck Vanguard, which I have thinly reground, and sharpen periodically throughout the season.

I think it’s a very decent hunting knife, and when I was customising its edge, I was pleasantly surprised by the behaviour of the steel on the stones.

Old Hunter - I always listen keenly to your advice and based on your previous recommendations I have the Buck fixed blades, particularly the 118 pencilled in to try.

I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on the S30V models, if you’ve used them much in the field?

I agree with Paul Chui ’s advice, to try a few different types of traditional patterns to work out what you like. As has been noted before in this thread, many knife patterns are quite functional, but your personal preference may be based on a whole number of factors which are entirely down to individual preference.

If I can make a few recommendations which haven’t been mentioned, based on my personal experience:

In terms of user knives for field dressing large and medium game, the Mora Forest is, IMHO, a superb knife.

Some of the knives in this thread probably blur the line between what a traditional hunting fixed blade is, and what it is not.

I’m guessing you’re after a more traditionally styled knife, though.

Im terms of Scandinavian type hunting knives, can I recommend the Ahti Jahti in 80CrV2 steel?

To my mind it’s about the best traditionally styled Scandi blade, in terms of being optimised for hunting tasks.

It works well in the usual hunting holds:

Also, the Suomi Tuplaleuku double knife sets might be worth looking at, if you’re interested in making the connection to traditional hunting cultures.

And maybe check out the Traditional Knife Hunting thread for some more patterns which are currently used.

 

[DrHenley]

I prefer a longer blade than most for skinning deer I find 6" to be about right for me. I do, however also use a much smaller knife too for detail work. I used a Puma Bowie (6" blade) for many years and my only gripe was that it had to be touched up after every deer. Several years ago I started going through a few different knives looking for something to replace the Puma.

One knife that was surprising was a Mossy Oak branded stacked leather Bowie that I bought on a whim at Walmart. I liked the looks and stacked leather has always appealed to me, and at only 20 bucks for a set (one 4" blade one 6" blade) I figured if it was junk then no big loss. Turned out, edge retention was better than the Puma, and would easily take a very sharp edge, but still didn't retain the edge as long as I wanted.

A couple of years ago I tried using a Buck General 120 (7" blade) and found it way too unwieldy and without sufficient belly. Last year I used a full sized Ka-Bar (7" blade) and found it worked a lot better than the Buck General, even though it was approximately the same length. Plenty of belly, the point is pointy enough, but low enough that it didn't want to catch intestines. Edge retention was what I was looking for, but the knife was still a wee bit too unwieldy. They make a short version of the Ka-Bar (5" blade) which I was tempted to get, but decided instead to just design my own, which I'm still working on. I went back and forth between clip and drop points on the design, and my cardboard pattern has a clip inked in just in case I swing back that way...

 

[jec88]

Another Buck you might look into that is the newer Buck 101 fixed blade. It is the fixed blade version of the 110 Hunter. I picked up a couple at the end of last deer season and haven't gotten to use it on game yet, but it is a fixed blade 110 so I know what to expect. Great looking knife around $60 give or take.

 

[oldmanwilly]

Not quite sure how I left them out earlier, but Great Eastern Cutlery makes several styles of traditional fixed hunting knives. Made in America and reasonably priced, definitely worth a look.

https://www.dlttrading.com/great-eastern-fixed-blades