Corduroy, in response to your post, I am not sure that I agree entirely with you. As I read it, you are opposed to carrying a folder which is used for both utility and self-defense, because of the potential to "dull and wear out" the piece in daily use. Frankly, I enjoy taking care of my knives. I've never had to use a knife hard enough to destroy the edge in one day, and every evening I know I can find time to resharpen whatever damage the day's cutting chores may have done to the edge. As to your comment about wearing out the knife, I think it's difficult to wear out a well-made (e.g. Spyderco or Benchmade) folder, without submitting it to abuse that would be more appropriate to a fixed blade. Additionally, once the pivot loosens permanently, or the blade starts to develop a recurve from too many sharpenings, you've got an excuse to buy a new knife. Finally, if I'm ever in a defensive bladecraft situation, I don't wan't to have to think about what blade I'm drawing, or fumble between two. I want the blade to be in my hand instinctively, and the blade most likely to be so, is the one I'm used to using.
Bearing that in mind, my ideal "tactical knife" would have a blade shaped for both utility and defense. About 4", an appropriate length for both convenient carry, most utility chores, and probably the minimum for a knife which will be used in combat. I'd prefer a non-tanto point. This gives more usable length to the knife's edge, and there are plenty of points which are both delicate enough for fine work, and strong enough for heavy work or combat. A clip point with a straight clip instead of a curving swedge, much like on the Police model would be good, balancing strength and penetration. For the steel, I'd go with something tough, and temper it to favor toughness, rather than edgeholding. Like I said above, I don't mind taking care of my knives, and I'd rather have a knife with a razor sharp edge which occasionally has to be touched up, than a knife which is fragile and a pain to sharpen.
The handle must be extremely ergonomic, able to orient the user's hand to the appropriate opening method, and to help the user retain the knife under slippery conditions, such as in rain, under stress, and when cold. A good example of this is the handle on the Benchmade XL CQC7, with the G10 providing a tough, secure grip, and the overall shape of the handle being a good guide to indexing the handle in the user's grip, while still being comfortable in saber, hammer, reverse and icepick grips.
For the lock, I don't care as long as it's made well. A well-made lock of any type, with the appropriate materials, will always beat a shoddy version of another lock. A lockback or linerlock is fine with me, but I suppose I'd like a rolling lock best. Thanks for sticking with me through this verbose post.
Bearing that in mind, my ideal "tactical knife" would have a blade shaped for both utility and defense. About 4", an appropriate length for both convenient carry, most utility chores, and probably the minimum for a knife which will be used in combat. I'd prefer a non-tanto point. This gives more usable length to the knife's edge, and there are plenty of points which are both delicate enough for fine work, and strong enough for heavy work or combat. A clip point with a straight clip instead of a curving swedge, much like on the Police model would be good, balancing strength and penetration. For the steel, I'd go with something tough, and temper it to favor toughness, rather than edgeholding. Like I said above, I don't mind taking care of my knives, and I'd rather have a knife with a razor sharp edge which occasionally has to be touched up, than a knife which is fragile and a pain to sharpen.
The handle must be extremely ergonomic, able to orient the user's hand to the appropriate opening method, and to help the user retain the knife under slippery conditions, such as in rain, under stress, and when cold. A good example of this is the handle on the Benchmade XL CQC7, with the G10 providing a tough, secure grip, and the overall shape of the handle being a good guide to indexing the handle in the user's grip, while still being comfortable in saber, hammer, reverse and icepick grips.
For the lock, I don't care as long as it's made well. A well-made lock of any type, with the appropriate materials, will always beat a shoddy version of another lock. A lockback or linerlock is fine with me, but I suppose I'd like a rolling lock best. Thanks for sticking with me through this verbose post.
