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Design Critique - for a Marine - FINISHED!!

I haven't been in the combat zones, but I have made a fair number of knives that go there, and know the people who use them.

Longtrang's post reflects what I have determined by making the knife to the soldier's request.

The predominant request is a straight 4-5" blade with a small guard. Stainless steel ( CPM-154). Plain and simple grind. No whistles and bells.
The handle is usually black canvas Micarta or green canvas Micarta. The grip shape is very important. Make it fairly straight and universal.
Pommels are either extended tangs (mostly used to open bottles with), or all metal butt caps/bolsters.
Fullers ( blood groove is a silly term) are unnecessary, and rarely desired.
Sharpened clip.
Serrations are desired by some, and hated by others.......better ask.
The honest truth is they care more about the sheath and its attachment than the knife in it. There are a whole range of attach met styles and materials..........Oh, and forget a leather sheath - Kydex or similar. I have purchased a Spec Ops sheath and made the knife to fit on more than one occasion. If possible, find out the users preferred carry system.

This is a combat knife. If it isn't convenient and simple ,it won't get carried. Every ounce of gear counts.
It will be used to cut open boxes and open meals, cut rope and wire, open things, pry things, and be a general use tool. It will unlikely ever be used in a knife fight or to kill an enemy......I am not saying that never happens, but it is the least frequent use of a combat knife.
 
Honestly I think its too big. It a knife designed by a knife guy, it looks very, very nice...but looks really don't mean sh#t a few days in the field. "Cool" goes out the window after a few day of discomfort...light, strong and sharp in a package that has multiple mounting/carry choices will win out.

I was 0311, thats a "rifleman" we carried a lot and had to move, movement was the key. Mortarman will hump even more weight, that tube or base plate aint light! Anything "extra" will soon be left in the rear.

i would say anything larger than the standard Ka-bar is over sized. It will open MREs, ammo crates and just be a general "toy" when he's bored. It really should be like a sharpend pry bar (within reason) that can stab and dig. We all know it can't be a fine slicer and a chopper...make it grunt proof, but out of a steel thats not hard to sharpen, a few serrations will be good.

He will likely have (or recommend to him) a small slicer and MT.

Just keep in mind he will have a lot of needed issued gear thats not an option, this knife will be an "extra" it has to be more useful than it is heavy, it must not get in the way.

Classic trench knives, the Glock field knife and the EK knives would be where I looked for inspiration

...well thats my opinion anyway. I wish him the best.
 
Definately back to the drawing board.

As rude as it sounds I actually don't want his opinion. He knows what he wants but I would rather make him something he needs. He is young and still full of movie hype so he told me his friend has a "really cool knuckle knife". Totally impractical for many reasons. That and his opinions are fresh from training and not the real world. I did ask him how big he would want it and he said big enough to take somebody's head off. Seems the Marine's did their job. ;)

Anyway, I value much more the opinion of those that have either been there or make knives for those that have.

To answer a previous question, yes a Mortarman. I don't know anything about how they select who goes where or if that is what he really wanted but he seems happy. He has been a volunteer fireman for a long time and eventually wants to go to the FDNY. He last worked for a hospital in the emergency room. Oh, he also has an associates degree. Whatever, he seems happy and already got a promotion to Lance Corporal.
 
I wouldn't say that you should go back to the drawing board. I like the design and it looks like something that I would carry. If this kid is not too experienced in sharpening then I would definitely add the serrations. If it was me I would use that design with a sharpened clip and serrations. Five inches is a good length but I think he could get away with six. I don't think the weight will be too big of an issue, molded kydex with a tec-lock backing should do the trick as far as mounting. Seriously though, it's an awesome design.
 
To reiterate, the knife does look like something that I personally would carry the way it is w/o any hardly any changes to the design. If the knife was for me I would ask for a little more real estate in the grip, that's it. The clean lines and flow of the knife are great. I wouldn't be posting all of this here if I didn't really love that design.
 
strider214 said:
As rude as it sounds I actually don't want his opinion. He knows what he wants but I would rather make him something he needs.
Click to expand...

I don't think it's rude at all. I'd recommend that he talk to some of the guys that have been deployed and get their input. Then I'd take Stacy's list and make a knife closely following those guidelines. The sheath needs to be versatile and should be MOLLE compatible.
 
Once again, thanks for all the responses. I really do appreciate all the input.

There are a few more things I would like to incorporate but I am limited by my noob skill level. Serrations may be something I'll try but only if I can get them right. Stacy's mini tutorial makes it look fairly easy.

The below pic has some changes but nothing set in stone (or steel). Please let me know if it's better, worse, or whatever. Maybe a combo?

I have never made a sheath but it's about time I learn. I am planning on Kydex with tec-lock.

Bran2.jpgBrandon.jpg

On a side note, this morning I finally caught the critter that has been wreaking havoc in my crawl space. Much more even tempered than the raccoon I relocated last year.critter.jpg
 
The design looks good , but there are 2 things i would do , either switch to a stainless steel, or coat the blade, as a Vet myself i can say that he's not gonna have all the time needed to keep that blade as clean as it needs to be , I'm not familiar with the steel your using but you did say it was carbon, so to me that says it could rust on him, Which is no good, Like i said i would either switch steels or send it off to get a coating baked onto it if you can't do it at your shop.Like i said not familiar with that steal just know its carbon , so that's what i'm basing my suggestions on.
 
Thanks Shawn, those systems do look interesting.

I think I'll use the carbon steel I have on hand but coating is an option I'll keep open.

3/16th seems very narrow to use as a hammer on the butt so I was thinking... Is it possible to heat up the steel enough with a torch to flatten the butt for more surface area?

Looks to me like most military purposed knives are basically paint stirrers with a point. I know enough to know that I have a lot to learn so maybe after 100 years of development, they're on to something.

CPM-154 sounds like the right choice but at $25 / foot I may have to stick with what I have. Damn, I hate compromises.
 
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I like that design a lot, and I would want one like that for sure. Nice design, and good luck to you, and good luck to him!
 
Although I have not responded directly to all the great input from you guys I have read all posts multiple times and have taken them to heart, so thanks.

I went ahead and profiled it last night and got to the bevels this morning. It still has a long way to go and much more detail work on the profile but before I go much further I was hoping to get some more input. I know the advice has been to do nothing "fancy" with the bevel but the whole pry bar usage has been nagging at me so I thought I'd experiment. The goal was to leave a lot more meat on the tip and I think it does that. What it doesn't do it look very nice but I think that could be okay. So far it is a full flat grind with the tip convexed. The taper stays very thick at the tip and I think therefore strong. Anyway, should I grind it all flat?
photo-78.jpgphoto-79.jpgphoto-80.jpg

Edit: well, not really an edit but I decided the tip just wasn't doing it for me so I went to an FFG
 
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Well, it's finished now and ready to go to heat treat so it is what it is. Since I was making this for a specific person I went in a little different direction than if I was to make it for myself or an unknown. His hands are small, mine are extra large so while I can still get a great grip on it there is no extra room when I wear my shop gloves. I think it will fit him just fine.

Thanks for the compliment!
 
Sorry I just realized I missed the entire second page and posted essentially too late. I like the new knife. Cheers.
 
I like your design, simple is usually the best route. the design looks very functional.
I would lengthen the handle just a tad, and once the knife is HT and handles attached, sharpen it up and chop / hard use it. If there are areas on your hand that are getting hot spots or rubs, mark with a wax marker or pencil then radius/smooth these areas out. I have made 16 knives that were/are used in combat theaters, and my best advice is to #1 strengthen the tip as much as possible, make some type of flat on the end of the handle that will allow pounding, and make it as light as possible without effecting overall balance. Also a consideration is making sure the sheat is considered " Jump Safe" if it will be used by anyone exiting aircraft.

God Bless
Mike
 
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