Design critique please NOW A WIP

All right guys, these have been shipped off to Darrin for HT. I'll keep posting my progress once I get them back.
 
I just received word from Darrin that they are on their way back! It shouldn't take to long to finish them out and then I'll test the modified sheepsfoot design out some before I order some 3V to work in.
 
What ae you testing on the sheepsfoot,the blade shape or the steel? The shape is my favorite hard use profile and with certain small features really is useful and able to take abuse.


-Xander
 
Since this one was done in 1095 as a proof of concept, I am going to make sure that I like the handle style and ergonomics before I work one up in CPM 3V. I know CPM 3V can take the thin blade design so I'm not to worried about the blade shape, I do want to make sure that nothing major needs changing on the handle.
 
WOOHOO! I just got the blades back from Darrin! They look great, I'll take some pictures tomorrow when I have some daylight.

EDIT: Nevermind, I had to go out of town until Tuesday, the show will continue then!
 
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As promised, I'm back and I've made some progress.

Here we are just out of the box from Darrin:
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It's hard to tell but most of the scale has been knocked off here and I convex the bushcrafters bevel:
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I started handsanding the blade next, here I am at 220:
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400:
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Buffed with a sisal wheel and medium cut'n'color and etched my makers mark. Basically it's how I write the 'M' in my signature:
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I considered doing a very fancy handle with buffalo horn and macadamia nut wood but decided that a working knife needs a working handle:
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Trimmed and tucked the tail:
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And applying a thinned epoxy. It's curing out right now.
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Beauty shots will come after it has cured for a few hours. I tried recording how I soak a wrap but my camera batteries died about 2mins in.

On a side note, this thing is by far the lightest fixed blade I have ever held. I don't have a scale that measures ounces but it's 1/3 to 1/4 of the weight of my Large Sebbie.

Let me know what you guys think, all comments are welcome! I'll get some final shots as soon as the epoxy cures.
 
Looking great! I bet that just feels great in the hand. Nice work on the finishing and wrap as well. :cool:
 
Thanks Daniel, you're right, it feels amazing in the hand! Balance before the epoxy soak was right at the index finger which is right where it needs to be. I still can't get over how light it is, if I ever made one from Ti in this thickness I think it would blow my mind.
 
It looks like you will have a good user knife for the shop. Keep us posted on your progress. Good job!

Gary
 
Thanks Gary!

I'm planning on ordering up a bar of 3V pretty soon and some 1/8" G10 and .06 black G10 liners and making 5 or so. I think I'll stay with bright colors to help them stand out amidst workshop clutter although they would be pretty cool in earth tones.

I need to see about making some Kydex pants for this.
 
Lookin good Matt. I know from handling it how light it must be. I know the cord and epoxy added very little weight.
 
Thanks Shawn!

Darrin, it came out very nice the p-cord and epoxy had just enough weight to make it balance nicely.

I still need to sharpen it then I'll take some better pictures of how it turned out.
 
Hey Matt, if you are going to make these for the open market, can I get one your List. Would love to have one in 3V with no handle, cord wrapped or micarta, I have some carbon fiber that would be used. Thanks for considering this offer, nice design!
 
Thanks Peppen!

Woodsyone, I'll send you a VM. Long story short, I still need to get my Knifemaker membership (which I will do very soon). Once I get the membership I plan to do a run of 5 and market them here on the Exchange.

Mgysgthath, I used acetone and did a 2:1 mix. Painted it on with a foam paint brush, waited a bit, wiped the blade off with a paper towel then did a second coat a few minutes later. While it's thinned the epoxy pretty much stops curing so you have a long pot life. As the acetone evaporates out it will start again. It was completely cured this morning.


When I sharpened it today I went to the disk grinder with a fresh 80 grit disk and apply a small bevel to the flat side. It's a very versatile grind that is very easy to sharpen. After I raised a burr with 80, instead of going to the diamond stones like I normally would, I tried something different. I stropped off the burr on the buffer then hand stropped with some really fine compound on leather. The result is an absolutely screaming sharp edge! This is THE most aggressive cutting blade I have ever made and I've made some pretty dang sharp ones too. Hair popping sharp and slices like a demon. I have some pics of a test I did below.

Pictures!

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This one shows off the almost sparkly finish you get with a sisal wheel. It's a bright finish but not near full mirror. This is in very bright sunlight.
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The bevel on the flat side:
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I cut this holding the paper by one end and letting the rest hang free then using the tip to puncture then push cut downwards through the paper.
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Then still letting it hang in the air I swung and cut horizontally. This took about 4 cuts. Remember this is basically newspaper!
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Thanks for looking everyone!
 
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