Designing a 'Fighting Bowie' Update

Hope you update us with a new drawing. I do agree with the "1/2 inch" statement but for me I would probably do more like 1 inch.
 
Made some major ergonomic improvements. Still dialing it in.

Terror_Pope.jpg
 
Looks wider than 2" bar stock... I might have to order something bigger
 
W. Anderson said:
Made some major ergonomic improvements. Still dialing it in.

Terror_Pope.jpg
Click to expand...
Do this; cut out a 1:1 cardboard mockup of that drawing.

Then grip it with your thumb on the jimping you added.

Then move your thumb into a hammer grip.

Move your thumb back and forth between the two and watch how your your hand moves. Tell us what you think is happening to your grip between the two.
 
Liking this version better, especially the long swedge. You might have to play with it a bit, but having the guard horn branch more off the ricasso rather than the ring might be more interesting.
 
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That guard horn... Dunno about that.

Keep in mind I'm cutting all this by hand with a bandsaw and angle grinder. A lot of these details won't be as "crisp" as the drawing.
 
Charlie Mike said:
No need... I got approved for financing a Tormach PCNC 770. This is gonna be fun. I don't expect to be operational for at least another few months. Gotta buy a laptop, tooling, build a bench, and finally... Learn CAD/CAM via YouTube University.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, sounds like it might soon be custom knife time for me.
 
I much prefer the original drawing's overall blade shape - the newer version adds a lot of belly and makes for a wide blade, which even with a fuller may be heavy. Just pull the swedge back a little farther if you feel it needs it and ditch the rear "choil".
 
Charlie Mike said:
That guard horn... Dunno about that.

Keep in mind I'm cutting all this by hand with a bandsaw and angle grinder. A lot of these details won't be as "crisp" as the drawing.
Click to expand...


Upon review, I agree that the top horn is unnecessary. I get a better saber grip without it. This will also get you back to under 2" width
 
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Icehawk said:
I much prefer the original drawing's overall blade shape - the newer version adds a lot of belly and makes for a wide blade, which even with a fuller may be heavy. Just pull the swedge back a little farther if you feel it needs it and ditch the rear "choil".
Click to expand...


I like the balance of leaf shaped blades. It's only 1/8 thicker than the original. Thank you for the input, however.
 
Danke42 said:
Do this; cut out a 1:1 cardboard mockup of that drawing.

Then grip it with your thumb on the jimping you added.

Then move your thumb into a hammer grip.

Move your thumb back and forth between the two and watch how your your hand moves. Tell us what you think is happening to your grip between the two.
Click to expand...

The hammer grip is certainly more secure, but I often find myself using a saber grip. It feels like I've got better control of the blades movement. However, I've concluded that the upper horn isnt needed at all. Man it looks cool, though...
 
With the finger ring, an upper thumb ramp isn't necessary... Especially with hammer grip.
 
Charlie Mike said:
With the finger ring, an upper thumb ramp isn't necessary... Especially with hammer grip.
Click to expand...

I'm not exactly familiar with the pinky impairment and what affect it is going to have in the grip, but might a subhilt fix the issue and provide the extra security while being a bit less visually intrusive?
 
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Charlie Mike said:
Looks wider than 2" bar stock... I might have to order something bigger
Click to expand...

Perhaps there is some way to cut abit of the barstock then heat it up and curl it into a ring, so thay way you don't have to grind out he whole ring?

That big choil infront of the ring on the wood drawn CM design won't be a weak spot?
 
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