Did a little prying today with my zt 0562cf and the lock failed.

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The lock failed today on my zt 0562cf when I went to pry off a sheet of particle board from a 2x4 stud attached by deep staples . I wasn't expecting the thing to fail and it almost clipped my finger. Scared the poop out of me.

I see how it happened but I wasn't even applying much torque. I am now able to push the lock all the way in (100% lockup). I don't think i tried before but it definetly doesn't feel as solid. Maybe it is and it just that side of me not being as confident in my blade lock.
So my question is, is this common for frame locks to fail when prying? And did I screw up my knife? It still feels smooth with lockup ~50% no blade play and perfectly centered but it feels like the lock slips off the blade pretty easy.
 
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^+1 although I had a similar feeling after I was in a situation where the only thing I had on me was my 560. It's the gen 1 lock bar without the steel insert, and I had to use it to chop away some branches my riding buddy had fallen into down the side of a mountain, I felt my lock bar disengage while I was holding further back on the knife, and when I checked it the engagement was noticeably later. That being said it was and is still completely solid and hasn't failed since. It helped us to remove my buddy so we didn't risk causing anymore damage, so I'd trust it with my life. Also as lost cosmonaut said zt would fix your knife if you sent it to them.
 
Knives aren't for prying. Next time use a pry bar.

That said, I bet ZT would fix it if you sent it in.

I'm kind of lost on the point of the knife that has such a heavy duty construction if it can't handle a measly 10ft lbs of torque.
I've pried more with my delica
 
So my question is, is this common for liner locks to fail when prying?

Probably.

And did I screw up my knife?

More than likely, I could see this causing the lock bar to bend slightly. Blade = lever, pivot = well a pivot, and the force is applied to the lock bar.

Personally I think everyone should learn to use a slipjoint safely first. From there on treat all folders as if they were slip joints, but that's just me.
 
There's not a folding knife made that will perform outside it's designed intent without risking failure. From time to time, it has to be done. That's why its important to understand the risk involved when using a tool for something it's not designed for.
I'm glad to hear you weren't cut. Bet you won't do that again:)
 
Hey, at least you're using it...

If someone asked me to use my 0562CF to pry with, I'd look at them like they just suggested I use my smart phone to pry something....:eek:
 
So just so we are clear you boughht a folding knife. Then you used that knife for what would probably be the first thing any knife company would tell you to NOT use it for and you are curious as to why it failed? Thats like asking a water sports forum why you had bad luck using a lead vest as alife preserver. All jokes aside that quite literally is the first things that will void most knife warranties. Light, heavy it really doesnt matter. It is the fact of putting a critical point in a folders design under stresses it was never designed to handle. Pushing the lockbar over by force and getting 100 % lockup is fairly common when it is a folder with a steel lockbar insert. Especially if the lockface angle is cut without any curvature. Since this is a frame lock it would depend on your grip orientation as to whether the lock actually failed or if you accidentally disengaged the lock yourself without knowing. If you open your knife as normal and put pressure on the spone of the blade and your lockbar doesnt flex, disengage or slip then i would say it was 100% user error.
 
Should of used the right tool for the job.
Any pics?
ZT should be able to fix it. Up to ZT if under warranty.

Best of luck.
 
Probably.



More than likely, I could see this causing the lock bar to bend slightly. Blade = lever, pivot = well a pivot, and the force is applied to the lock bar.

Personally I think everyone should learn to use a slipjoint safely first. From there on treat all folders as if they were slip joints, but that's just me.
I grew up carrying my sak classic.

I grew into bigger harder use knifes but figure that I could use them a little harder than my slip joint
 
I'm kind of lost on the point of the knife that has such a heavy duty construction if it can't handle a measly 10ft lbs of torque.
I've pried more with my delica

The materials are better suited for heavy use AS A KNIFE, it was not designed to pry. Also, the Delica has FRN scales so I doubt it would win a pry-off between the two knives. Just because you've 'pried more with your Delica' doesn't mean that the Delica would be a better prybar than the ZT, it just means you haven't really put the ZT to a proper test. Also, framelock vs. backlock in a lock failure while prying and backlock wins every time because it's got lateral movement to disengage vs. horizontal movement.
 
I'm kind of lost on the point of the knife that has such a heavy duty construction if it can't handle a measly 10ft lbs of torque.
I've pried more with my delica

Makes no difference what the material is made of, lateral forces while twisting will more often than not disengage and weaken a liner and frame lock. The force applied is forcing the knife to move at an angle which it was not designed to move in. The 0562 is a frame lock, not a liner lock (there is a subtle difference). Comparing a back lock knife with a frame lock is apples to oranges.
 
I completely agree using the correct tool for the job is the key. I was unaware of the fact that a knife of this stature couldn't handle that. I will no longer use any knife to pry. Even if its "just this once". Thanks for your input all and I guess you're only as strong as your weakest link. I love this knife and i t has kicked my bm 940-1 out of my pocket 80% of the time.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the knife so no need to send it back to zt
 
I would send it in if I were you. I've used liner and frame locks for light prying before and never had a lock failure (including ZT's). I've never even felt like the lock MIGHT fail. If you want to have confidence in the knife to do what you ask, send it in to ZT for tuning to make sure it's within specs.
 
I would send it in if I were you. I've used liner and frame locks for light prying before and never had a lock failure (including ZT's). I've never even felt like the lock MIGHT fail. If you want to have confidence in the knife to do what you ask, send it in to ZT for tuning to make sure it's within specs.

Thank you for your suggestion! I may end up sending it in just to make sure the knife is to spec.
 
Makes no difference what the material is made of, lateral forces while twisting will more often than not disengage and weaken a liner and frame lock. The force applied is forcing the knife to move at an angle which it was not designed to move in. The 0562 is a frame lock, not a liner lock (there is a subtle difference). Comparing a back lock knife with a frame lock is apples to oranges.

Vector.
 
Took the knife apart, removed all screws including the steel lockbar insert and it was loose. Put some Teflon thread tape on the screw threads. Hopefully it stays in and I get solid lockup

Edit:
- knife locks up well and even sounds better after reassembling it
 
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