The old saying that a knife is the worst, most expensive, pry bar and screw driver you'll likely ever own rings true. If you have to pry or twist with a knife the liner/frame lock is about the worst option of any of the locking folders. It's applying forces directly in opposition to the locking mechanism that relies on very tight tolerances to stay locked. It's not that hard to shift the scales/pivot etc. with lateral force force on the blade and introduce some lock bar slop (people do it to center blades all the time). There's also the issue that if you have the knife blade horizontal and you are pulling up/down on the grip it's very easy to accidentally move the lockbar releasing it, twisting has the same potential hazard.
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Did a little prying today with my zt 0562cf and the lock failed.
- Thread starter jeffmizrahi
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I put a decent amout of force on the pivot point of my SAK all the time. Of course that is using the driver either for its intended use or light prying duties. Using the half stop on mine I can and do put a good amount of force behind driving screws from time to time. In my humble opinion it's a better design for that type of use over modern flow through screw and post construction style knives.
poolhustler
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Cool man... glad you didn't lose a finger!!!
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The 0562CF is not a heavy duty knife. It's one of the newer, more EDC friendly ZT designs.
If you really want a heavy duty ZT you can beat on, get a 0620, 0300, 0200. Those are the heaviest of heavy duty pieces. ZT had really broadened their lineup in the last few years so they aren't all tanks anymore.
-Zt's number 1 fanboy
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Any lock is just a splint on your broken knife.
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Way to contribute to the thread. Thanks for your input.
@poolhustler. As am I!
@scurvy: what is the difference with the 0620 and 0562? The pivot being larger diameter? I really liked the 0620 and ended up going with the 0562.
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What would you like me to say?
"I'm so sorry your knife broke when you were doing something stupid with it?"
Do you pry with keys? Forks? Pencils? Your phone? .............What's that? No, you don't?
Yeah, there's a reason for that.
Think hard about what knives are primarily intended to do, and try to understand that even if you COULD get away with light prying with some knives, you should never EXPECT a knife to be able to handle the job and make it part if the criteria for being a good knife
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What would you like me to say?
"I'm so sorry your knife broke when you were doing something stupid with it?"
Do you pry with keys? Forks? Pencils? Your phone? .............What's that? No, you don't?
Yeah, there's a reason for that.
Think hard about what knives are primarily intended to do, and try to understand that even if you COULD get away with light prying with some knives, you should never EXPECT a knife to be able to handle the job and make it part if the criteria for being a good knife
Nothing. Nothing at all if you have nothing of value to input into a thread. There is absolutely no reason to be sarcastic and rude about it.
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The pivot on the 0620 is SOLID. It's literally a bolt. The knife is also on washers, not bearings which should help it more on lateral loads.
If you choose to ignore logic and only accept "input" from people who think the same as you do, that's fine by me.
As you were, knifebreaker
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and then ask yourself why your folding knife has a blade thicker than 1/8. and wonder why utility blades are thinner. and sak blades are thinner, and douk douk blades are thinner. and opinel blades are thinner. and machete blades are thinner. and saw blades are thinner.
oh no, they aren't meant to pry. but they aren't meant to cut either. they're meant to keep that display case from flying away in a strong breeze.
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Fixed that for ya. You should add that to your sig line.
I feel like there should be a ceremony. Like a coronation.
And you somehow know which knives I own and carry? And whether I keep a massive collection in a display case?
You have a point about some of the sharpened prybar collectors out there.........but we're not talking about those. Were talking about ZTs. And while they may be a little more stout than SAKs, they're all still knives. And as knives, their primary use is in CUTTING. How well they actually end up doing that is irrelevant. It doesn't change the intended use (a use that is made clear by the manufacturer as well).
How well knives actually cut is irrelevant?
Sonnydaze
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...unless it was mostly melted...:thumbup:
I was acknowledging the well known fact that ZTs don't have the best geometry for cutting, and saying that it doesn't matter, because not being GOOD knives doesn't mean they aren't knives and should be used for something other than cutting.
So with ZT, I'm getting a knife that doesn't cut as well but also a knife that will fail if I find myself needing to use it for something other than cutting. I thought I would have to give up sturdiness for cutting performance and vice versa, but I guess with ZT I don't have either?
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