Differences in belt grit progression?

Matt: You are very right about using NEW BELTS. There is no magic formula for grinding. All I know is, the fewer passes I need to make, the less chance I have to screw up. I have been burned many times trying to get another blade ground from a dull belt, only to find (after wearing out the next finer belt) that I needed to go back. So I wasted two belts.

Belts are real expensive, and, they don't last, particularly against the CPM steels. I often get less than 30 seconds of good grinding from 180 and finer belts. If you are a hobby maker, think about stopping at 180 or 220 and scotch-briting your blades.
 
Belts are real expensive, and, they don't last, particularly against the CPM steels. I often get less than 30 seconds of good grinding from 180 and finer belts. If you are a hobby maker, think about stopping at 180 or 220 and scotch-briting your blades.

Thanks for the tip RJ. I'll do that when I try stainless. That's if I ever get that kiln. I don't think it'll be this Christmas. Not that I haven't been good but Santa's broke. ;)

Thanks again to all who participated. I learned a lot.
 
I was planning on starting a "Belt Sander/Grinder Tips" thread, something for those who are starting out could reference to glean some info from (like wd-40 on a Scotch Brite belt).

While I was doing my research, I came across this thread and it had quite a significant amount of helpful information already posted. Due to this I hope you all can forgive my resurrection.
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Stacy, I hope you don't mind me quoting this post from another thread, I think it would fit nicely in here considering the info contained in your post.
If you would like, I will remove it.


For a final fine scratch finish, I do not use a sanding belt. I use a scotch bright belt. They are called "Surface Finishing Belts", because that is what they are made to do. They last a very long time,too. The types and approx grit size scratch are:
coarse - 100
medium - 200
fine - 300
very fine - 400-600
super fine - 800-1000


Most all the knife supply and industrial suppliers carry them in belts as well as hand pads ( great for touch ups and tight places).


TIPS:
When you get the belts, take a large tip Sharpie and mark the grade all over the inside. After use, it can be hard to tell the original color, and the colors may change from batch to batch. Re-mark as needed to keep the identity known. I hate looking at a well used belt and saying, "Is this maroon or brown?" In some cases, blue is used for medium as well as super fine ( At least they both look blue to me).

When not in use, roll up and store in a gallon zip-lok bag or a coffee can. Mark the bag or can with the grit type. This keeps contaminants out of the porous belt. A stray bit of hard metal dust or a piece of 50 grit cubitron belt can make the Scotch-Brite belt leave an unwanted scratch.

What I am Really hoping for is if anyone could add to this thread anything you may have learned over the last few years since this was originally posted.
New posters are welcomed as well!
 
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