disappointed in spyderco

BladeChick777 said:
I'm going to pop in here and mention that the Steel of the Buck knives are different than 8cr13mov. The Spyderco may cost more but that's because of their fit and finish and quality. However the steel on the Buck's you are using is likely a bit better than 8cr13mov.
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That's a stunningly bad argument. What steel are Buck using??? And why is it better for what??? In fact Buck uses a lot of 420 grade steel. But 8cr13mov is a slight tweak on 440B - which is a definite jump above 420 for most small knife purposes.

The heat treat is also different.
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Well, yes. THEY ARE DIFFERENT STEELS. You don't (I hope) cook an egg and a hamburger in the same way.
 
goodeyesniper said:
am I the only one who lets most of my edges keep their rolled/damaged areas instead of sharpening a bunch of steel away to make them smooth again? Granted it usually happens to knives I'm just going to use hard again, so I don't need a perfect edge. But I will usually just touch up the edge, leaving the visible dents because I just don't want to waste all that steel simply to have a "flawless" edge. It will still cut just fine, just has some irregular "serrations" :p
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I am cursed with an eye for detail, and that would just drive me crazy.
Besides, I have enough knives to last many lifetimes, so not too worried about wasting steel.
 
tjswarbrick said:
Soil is terrible stuff. I destroyed a perfectly detestable cheap kitchen knife cutting out a patch of grass to repair my sprinklers. Didn't bother to try to repair the damage.
My nephew beat the tar out of a throwing knife, throwing it into the dirt. I spent nearly an hour on sandpaper over mousepads trying to get the chips, rolls and dings out. I didn't remove it all, but it would at least cut again. He promptly went back to throwing it in the dirt.

I did manage to cut the "compostable" pots from 4 plants with my M390 Para2 with no detectable damage. The topsoil in those was mostly loose wood chips.

If I were to be doing that kind of work often, I'd probably get a carbon steel Sodbuster - at least I'd have a good chance of restoring the edge each time.
Or, if I were really married to Buck, I might try that.
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The sensible thing to do is to get a knife designed for the job. They're cheap too:

http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Garden-Landscaping-Digging-Stainless/dp/B0007WFG2I
 
I've bought two delicas in the last four months neither had any of that regular blade play you speak of but for real buck buck buck buck. Lol if you like buck so much just stick with them. Cutting through dirt. Your going to have to sharpener up after words especially the 8crm whatever Chinese steel. And 50 bucks for a tenacious is steep brother
 
Cold Steel makes a fixed blade that has a double edge perfect for cutting through soil. They call it the shovel. :)

shovel.jpg
 
dakota1820 said:
We are talking fresh top soil there is no big rocks or wood chips. The 50 bucks is about what they go for around here.
Also the 80 dollar one was a delica very good steel but the knife doesnt feel as sturdy and comes loose regularly.

Also im hardly bashing spyderco im just voicing a true experience. Theyre known to be very good but I seem to have better service from buck and benchmade.
Also you guys act like its acceptable for a blade to chip under regular use and say well its a cheaper knife.....fine I agree with that but when a buck thats half the price doesnt chip or have issues then to me it looks like maybe syperdco is living off their name and not making as good of products
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I would guess the reason Buck's have not chipped/rolled is because their heat treat combined with probably a sharpening angle not as severe as Spyderco's normal 30 degrees. Spyderco's are known as slicers, and part of that is the relatively low (factory) primary bevel angle. Just a guess.
 
I have a Spyderco Tenacious and a Buck Vantage; and I have used both of them fairly hard. The 420HC Buck uses is superior, but the fit and finish on it was horrific. The Tenacious on the other hand was near perfect. I wouldn't accuse Spyderco of living off their name, at least their knives come from the factory finished.

That being said, I would not cut dirt with a knife period. If I can't see what I am cutting, I am not going to use my knife on it, regardless of the cost.
 
nccole said:
I would guess the reason Buck's have not chipped/rolled is because their heat treat combined with probably a sharpening angle not as severe as Spyderco's normal 30 degrees. Spyderco's are known as slicers, and part of that is the relatively low (factory) primary bevel angle. Just a guess.
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Or there is more to the OP's story than simply cutting through wonderfully fluffy topsoil...
 
cncpro11 said:
I am cursed with an eye for detail, and that would just drive me crazy.
Besides, I have enough knives to last many lifetimes, so not too worried about wasting steel.
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Not going to lie, probably a bigger part of me not sharpening out every dent is laziness/lack of equipment. I do okay at sharpening already decent edges, and I have some small diamond stones if I really need to do some reprofiling, but it's far from ideal. It gets a bit monotonous for me and I just wouldn't want to spend the time...
 
I guess im the only one who is a little confused. You say the edge chipped, and the edge also rolled. did you get specific areas that rolled and others that chipped? The reason I ask is a blade that is chipping at the edge is usually a sign that the steel is too hard. If the edge rolls its too soft. And a combination of both would have me think that the tip area stayed hard and the choil or belly stayed soft. And if THAT is the case part of your blade would sharpen relatively easy (the rolled) and the chipped would be harder to work out. But what sharpener are you using?
 
By rolled I mean just dulled the blade did chip though. Like I said topsoil and cutting the weed barrier. Not a hard job in my opinion.
 
dakota1820 said:
When you have bucks that were 30 bucks that perform better than a 50 dollar spyderco and not just a little better but a lot better that is a problem. Heck my 80 dollar spyderco wasn't as good as the buck before it and that buck was 35 bucks or so. That is sad sure it's a cheaper knife but if it can't handle average everyday tasks that is pretty sad.
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Sorry, irrelevant but I find it funny that you use the term bucks(as dollars) for the buck knife(s) & dollars for spyders.
 
The 8cr13MOV steel is quite soft but can be made very sharp. My first semi-heavy use on my Tenacious was ripping thru coaxial cable. Its cut thru like butter but the trailing edge rolled a little. Nice thing is you can just grab a cheap sharpener like a Smith's and in five minutes its nice and sharp again.

You cannot fairly judge Spyderco on their budget line. A budget line is just that. Jump up a notch to the Endura, Delica line made with VG-10. And never, EVER pay more than about 30 dollars for a budget knife.
 
Seriously guys - I've got three old spydies - a #1 edition Delica a #2 edition Delica (both AUS 8 steel) and an old "co-pilot" (Gin 10 steel ?)- never had a problem with any of them - speaking of cheap I did pick up a Kershaw "Chill" for under $15.00 - of 8cr13MoV steel. They all work and hold up great! never had a problem in shop or garden or kitchen with any except cutting myself!
Peace Revvie
 
ok so not ban me.

but they are over rated very hard for me too deploy - give me a flipper on the top and thumb screw on both sides.

if want too cut every day use a fix blade hollow ground, it is rare, unless your tradesman. Pocket EDC is for defence first. If you need to cut a lot and feel the need for safty then it pays for expensive steel and better knife. Other wise.... see my other post on EDC.

I was in sales in for many trades and kept 2 on me one a cutter, defense knife and had 100 knives and 1 spyder. I do like spyder jackets and match shirts for skiing!
 
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