Disassembly pics?

ChazzyP said:
Here's another Cheburkov not totally unlike the Leader I posted recently. This one's the Hudson (Gudzon) Lightweight version, kinda like the Shiro Hati with a Ti frame lock on the back side and a fully composite slab with no liner on the show side. I had this one partially apart not too long ago to see if I could tighten down the clip (screw at right of Ti slab) as it's just a smidgen off the scale, but it's honked all the way down and clip does work well and is stable. Like most any Russian knife I've had apart, the Hudson was lubed with black, Militec-like grease, in this case packed into the backside of the bearing retainers as you can see in the dish below. I soaked them in alcohol, then used the sharpened end of one of the swabs above to dig the stuff out, repeating the process twice.

I always re-lube with W10 NanoOil, which generally makes for a great improvement in the action. In this case the knife was pretty damn good right out of the box, which is why didn't do a complete breakdown and cleaning earlier, and the improvement is hardly significant. Still nice to have it all apart and cleaned out.

View attachment 1928482
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May I ask if you generally find it easy to re-enter the blades?
 
Rufus1949 said:
May I ask if you generally find it easy to re-enter the blades?
Click to expand...


Assuming that auto-correct has taken over and you meant re-center...

...no, generally I do not, though there are sometimes circumstances that can make things more difficult. For higher end knives, say Shiro's, Cheburkov's, CRKs, RHKs, Olamics, and many others, the fitment is so good that the knives go right back where they were when you cracked 'em open. I was amazed when I disassembled some of my first expensive mid-techs at how hard they were to get apart as everything was so closely machined.

If you're modding a knife beyond just cleaning and lubing, say installing aftermarket scales, changing a backspacer, converting same to stand-offs, or vice-versa, you can run into problems with centering as just a little hole/fastener misalignment of body screws can throw the pivot axis off just slightly. The blade tip in a closed knife with a 3.5"+ blade could move left/right 15-20 times more than the out-of-square condition of the pivot axis.

Also, many mid- and lower-priced knives have a little more slop in their machining, which is both a blessing and a curse. A curse, in that you can re-assemble and find your blade off-center, but a blessing in that it's correctable if it was right to begin with. It's also usually correctable if it wasn't.

Some years ago I opened a thread on the Benchmade Manufacturer's Forum with an easy method to clamp the blade of an open folder in a vise and correct an off-center-blade condition. The basic principle is to loosen the body screws while leaving the pivot screw alone, move the handle left or right as needed to re-align the pivot axis, and re-tighten the body screws. This can also be done by loosening, wedging the blade left or right with the knife in the closed position, and re-tightening, though I've found that less controlled and effective. It's also possible to stick the blade of an opened, unloosened knife in a desk drawer sideways and push down on the handle in the proper direction to re-align the blade axis. The proper direction may seem counter-intuitive to some--just look at my rude diagram in the linked thread for a hopefully clearer understanding.

All that said, Rufus1949 Rufus1949 , with the sorts of knives you're generally dealing with, I wouldn't worry about it at all. 🤔 😉
 
ChazzyP said:
Assuming that auto-correct has taken over and you meant re-center...

...no, generally I do not, though there are sometimes circumstances that can make things more difficult. For higher end knives, say Shiro's, Cheburkov's, CRKs, RHKs, Olamics, and many others, the fitment is so good that the knives go right back where they were when you cracked 'em open. I was amazed when I disassembled some of my first expensive mid-techs at how hard they were to get apart as everything was so closely machined.

If you're modding a knife beyond just cleaning and lubing, say installing aftermarket scales, changing a backspacer, converting same to stand-offs, or vice-versa, you can run into problems with centering as just a little hole/fastener misalignment of body screws can throw the pivot axis off just slightly. The blade tip in a closed knife with a 3.5"+ blade could move left/right 15-20 times more than the out-of-square condition of the pivot axis.

Also, many mid- and lower-priced knives have a little more slop in their machining, which is both a blessing and a curse. A curse, in that you can re-assemble and find your blade off-center, but a blessing in that it's correctable if it was right to begin with. It's also usually correctable if it wasn't.

Some years ago I opened a thread on the Benchmade Manufacturer's Forum with an easy method to clamp the blade of an open folder in a vise and correct an off-center-blade condition. The basic principle is to loosen the body screws while leaving the pivot screw alone, move the handle left or right as needed to re-align the pivot axis, and re-tighten the body screws. This can also be done by loosening, wedging the blade left or right with the knife in the closed position, and re-tightening, though I've found that less controlled and effective. It's also possible to stick the blade of an opened, unloosened knife in a desk drawer sideways and push down on the handle in the proper direction to re-align the blade axis. The proper direction may seem counter-intuitive to some--just look at my rude diagram in the linked thread for a hopefully clearer understanding.

All that said, Rufus1949 Rufus1949 , with the sorts of knives you're generally dealing with, I wouldn't worry about it at all. 🤔 😉
Click to expand...
Again, another in depth reply to add to my education.
I guess I should have typed re- center. So far,I have had only one issue with centering. Using the matchbook on side of blade before tightening screws did the trick.
Thanks again
Bob
 
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Have to love how easy these bad boys are to take down.
 
My first Bugout. Received yesterday, along with flytanium Crossfade scales, blue Ti body and clip screws, thumb stud, and axis bar, andKVP oversize washers.

Little tricky on reassemble as one one the 2 short scres that feed into rhe axis lock liners was not machined well and would not take the T6 bit. For pics i placed one of the extra ti screws bit removed it and placed an orifinal screw as it was bit long and i was paranoid to blade inpact. Leason learned, chexk all the screws for integrity before starting, as i lost probably 20 minites, and had to paise a time lapse vid recording the reassembly.32729EC5-0E39-4A47-A30D-99978171AEB6.jpegBB24682F-67A5-4373-BBA2-3127BFE64958.jpeg0E58CAC8-AB4B-40F9-83D7-4385158D54CD.jpeg7BAD4773-0E8F-48E8-8E9B-914D13B4AE30.jpeg
 
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According to your photos, you have the same thing as me on the new knife. It is possible that ZT has small changes in new batches? Otherwise, everything is OK, the serial number matches the box, I bought the knife from a fairly reputable shop.

P.S. Sorry for my english, I am from Czech Republic :)
 
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Bought two of Kizers more inexpensive models last week on a buy two get 40% off sale on the big river site. Both liner locks, the mini Begleiter 2 didn't have much tension on the liner lock, the Swayback had too much tension on the liner lock. I took both apart today and adjusted the liner locks. Now both are a good standard happy medium.
pI0PQjC.jpg
 
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