Chris, I saw your answer and thanks, but it's more than that. When I scan through postings and run across a question that I know the answer to or have an opinion that may help, I respond. In fact, when I see someone post a review of a knife, and notice that no one responds to it, I always go in and make a comment on it, just to show that someone is reading and appreciates the time another spends to write in a review. This is just being polite.
I'll list just a few from other forumites in the recent past that they took the time to ask and never got answered on the postings. Maybe they were emailed, but then that defeats the purpose of this board. Maybe I'm being harsh, but right now I feel that I would get more results in the general forum than in here and I bet that I would.
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Im working on a new design in ATS-34 (se it on my page in the "Log" under "Ongoing Projekts"). Which grade of finish is needed before beadblasting. Is the beadblasting the final step? I dont want the handle beadblasted so should I just cover it with tape? How about the back of the knife, if i cover the handle, the finish will change from the handle to the blade.
I just got back from my shop where I`ve been grinding away all morning. I tried some true slack belt grinding today and I`m pretty pleased with it so far. I`ve used the area above the platten already but never removed it entirely before. The only problem is that I find it hard to get crisp edges on the grinds. The blades tend to look as if they`ve been buffed a little too much even before I get to the buffer. Any suggestions? I`ve been putting the platten back in to do the crisper lines. The piece I was working on today for example has a false edge I wanted to be fairly distinct. The primary edge is a convex saber grind. Although I like how a true convex grind cuts I`ve been putting a fine secondary edge on them to make them easier to sharpen. It seems to work pretty well but I`m not sure it`s the best way to go. Would a conventional flat grind be better? Also I`m curious to hear others` thoughts on a convex chisel grind. It seems to me it would beef up the edge on chisel ground blades that have a very fine edge due to the acute angle of the grind. Any merit to this? I`m thinking of using it on the credit card knives I`m making since they`re very thin (1/16"). Marcus
Greetings all. I' ve recently received a knife back from a checkering service and had a nice job done on its micarta scales. I' m curious to know if checkering or texturing can be done on G10. I' ve seen some newer BM folders with a nice textured surface and am wondering how that was achieved. But my primary inquiry goes to the checkering. Any ideas?
Does anyone know of a knifemaker that lives around Etna California? I have a friend that is just starting into knife making, 20 years in the US Army and just retired as Chief of Police of Etna. I live on the opposite side of the US from him and it sure is hard trying to help him out long distance. He has a shop, he's a gunsmith, and has a new Bader, lathe, milling machine and polishing equipment and most everything he might need except someone to point him in the right direction. I know he would appreciate some help. Thanks
Tom
I have quite a few old but serviceable and, in some cases, collectable knives that are lazy. They don't have that same SNAP that the young ones do. Some of these I acquired this way, others just seem sticky and some BreakFree helped those a bunch. In several cases the knife is virtually unused. It sat in a drawer or stash somewhere and everyhting about it is minty except there's no there there. It doesn't close completely or the lockup is imprecise so I've gotta "help" it.
So short of taking them completely apart and bending the springs or making new springs from scratch, what can I do to improve the "walk and talk" of these puppies. I've cleaned them up and lubed them which helped some but not enough.
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone know anything about the quality/availability of 3M diamond sharpening stones. I saw them advertised at the Japanese Woodworker site, but they had very little info, and I don't think they discount very much. Anything, but esp a comparison with eze-lap or DMT would be great.
Aaron
I was curious as to which CAD Software is used the most by other Makers who use it? I've been working with Microstation 95 and Cadintosh plus Adobe Illustrator and Corel Draw 7.0.
I find the real CAD programs are REALLY hard to use and the illustration software is hard to get over into a suitable format to drive a machine.
Any help, tips experiences would be appreciated.
I have been pondering the purchase of a Kershaw Ti handles knife and have a question: Is there anyone out there that could refinish the blade to erase the big 'TI ATS34' I know that the knife is...it doesn't need to remind me. I was even pondering getting something engraved on it(mabye in Akkadian).
Aaron
And of course my question: "I have a knife with a smooth paper micarta handle that is really to slick for me. I want to give it the nice texture look without ruining the the Micarta. The handle cannot be removed. What might be the best way to go about this. "
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Sorry for my rantings and ravings but I had to get it off my chest.
Case Closed. This was not meant as a dig to anyone and if I am incorrect sorry. And to all who help out, thanks.