Do I Need a Bushcraft Knife?

[dayhiker1968]

If your Strider works, then no you don't need a "Bushcraft" knife. Want maybe, but not need.

My outdoors (Bushcrafting) knife isn't a "buschcraft style" knife either. It has the "wrong" grind, "wrong" steel, "wrong" thickness, and "wrong" handle material. But in my hands it just plain works.

 

[WILLIAM.M]

I have tested a few Striders and MANY MANY DOZENS of other knives as well(Like over 200 by now)--so I speak from experience

The handle on that Strider is not going to be nearly as comfortable during hard and or extened use as even a inexpesive Mora would be-and the Mora would out cut it on wood too.

Wrapping the tang of a knife over attaching Micarta /G-10/or some other grip material is a cost saving feature--it does not make the knife more comfortable-especially for long term use.


But you need to test handle comfort while cutting

A handle can feels Great in your living room might feel like crap 3 minutes(or less) after you start using it hard on wood(also applies to choppers too)

My advise is get a Mora or other less expensive woodcraft knife and try it out against your Strider(and other knives you own)

I'm not a Big Mora fan--as I only have one(MIKI model)--but for the $--they can not be beat on wood and soft material.

Let us know what you get...

 

[Guyon]

Spend a few bucks on one of the new, thicker Moras. You'll be GTG.

 

[Lou Castle]

First that strider looks like its hollow ground (could be wrong) which I find to be the worst for working wood.

It is hollow ground.

The thinness of the stock with the only with the paracord will end up killing your hand

I've just ordered the grips from Monkey Edge that will replace the paracord. I've got sandpaper on hand if they're too rough. I like the paracord for short term use, but even then, as you say, it "kills "my hand. I've taken to wearing gloves for any extended work but that a PITA. I've used a wrapped handled knife for meat prep in the kitchen before. But that epoxy dipped so it was sealed and was smoother than the paracord.

Also most "bushcraft knives" have about an inch where the cutting edge runs parallel to the spine of the knife, this again aids in cutting wood. You can notice on the strider how the cutting edge curves all the way from the plunge lines to the point. Also I'm going to go out on a limb and assume that that strider knife is made from thick stock 5/32nds or more - which is too thick for a knife in the -4'' committee. I would go for anything 1/8 (.125) or thinner. If you really get into it you'll see what I mean.

You're right on this. The Strider is about .19", even thicker than 5/32".

It won't "do" anything your knife won't do, but it will do things more efficiently and with fewer problems. For example, a good scandi ground or flat ground will be better than that hollow ground. A thinner blade with a blunter/stronger tip will be better for just about any bushcraft cutting task. Typical bushcraft steels (O1, 1095, A2, etc.) will be take an edge easier and be much, much tougher and less likely to chip than S30V. The list goes on.

Pretty persuasive argument! I'm big on using the right tool for the job.

You do not need a "bushcraft" knife. That is a complete myth. There are a lot of knives more suited to "bushcraft" type work than others, but long as you can get done what you need to do comfortably, your knife is probably fine.

I get that virtually any knife can do the job of bushcraft. I could cut trap notches with my 42" katana if I had to. What I'm looking for here is the most efficient tool for the job. I used to think that a big chopper would supply me with firewood and do the smaller tasks as well. I was a believer in the saying that "a large knife will do small tasks but a small knife can't do large tasks." Now I'm looking for more efficiency.

Hollow grinds really aren't the end of the world. I think the obsession with batonning has really done more disservice to the hollow grind than is necessary. I never knew any different until the internet told me hollow grinds were terrible for outdoors work.

I mostly agree. I've batoned used flat grinds, hollow grinds and convex grinds. They all gave me pretty good results. Perhaps it's my failing in not noticing the differences. .

Agreed w/Hawkeye. Despite the popularity of the word "bushcraft" right now, I'd suggest just looking at what specific tasks you need the knife to do, and let the intended tasks narrow down your choices.

Good advice. I know people who get a knife and then try to get it to do everything. Sometimes that's based on an emotional response to a brand name. I agree that the job that the knife is being asked to do, should drive the selection process.

For example, you'll find a number of different blade/tip styles among "bushcraft" knives - there really is no single "bushcraft" design. For me, I want a knife that will do the basic woodworking I need it to do, but that also has enough of a belly to it that it is an effective game knife. For some, the latter isn't important or needed. That's part of the reason I've chosen a particular style of knife over something like a Kephart. I think Kephart designs are really cool, particularly for woodworking tasks, but it wouldn't be my choice for a game knife. Something like my BRKT Bushcrafter, with a modified drop point, is a more versatile design for my needs.

More good advice.

baldtaco-II that's a very interesting knife, pretty much exactly the design that I'm looking for, but the maker isn't taking orders at this time. Anyone else got something close?

Let us know what you get...

I will.

 

[wildmanh]

Lou Castle, thats a sweet looking Strider. Bet it will be even nicer with handle slabs. Please post pictures after you get them. Aside from it being a bit thick for it's small size, shape wise, it looks like a great knife for camp/utility work.

My most recent aquisition is a SOG NW Ranger 2.0 It has a 5.2" long blade thats .150" thick at the spine and full flat ground. Instead of the choil or finger groove, it has a thick single guard. The AUS-8 steel takes a wicket edge, it slices really well and I've found it comfortable to use for extended periods of time. Used it last week to cut all the veggies for Dutch Oven Chicken soup and the week before that I used it to cut up onions and peppers for Dutch Oven chili. Spent a good 20 to 30 minutes last week cutting up pounds of carrots, potatoes, onions, cellery, cabbage, and broccoli for the chicken soup.

I also use an old Western L36 Bowie [5" clip point blade, 3/16" thick, full flat ground], a SOG Hunter Revolver, Kershaw Echo and customized H.I. Kumar Karda amoung other blades in the field. Some people say that a hollow grind isn't good for wood working, I've found that it depends on the knife and how you use it. For instance, I've used my hollow ground Buck 110 to whittle/carve in camp and it did a great job. Sure, the blade was a bit long for some of the carving that I was doing, but it worked really well. My EDC folder is a SOG X-42 Autoclip. It's a 3.6" long Hollow ground Americanized Tanto in BG-42 steel. It's cut up more veggies in the kitchen, carved more roasting sticks and walking sticks then any other knife that I own.

I like to carry and use Multiple knives when out in the wilderness. a folder [if I have clothes on I have a folder], a 4 to 5 inch fixed blade, a Machete and frequently a saw. Sometimes I'll also have a larger Camp knife like a Becker BK9, SOG Tigershark or Fiddleback Forge camp knife. For backpacking, I may leave the Camp knife at home, only relying on my folder, medium fixed blade and machete or Axe. I could even carry just my folder, a camp knife and Machete and still feel like I have a good tool kit as it were. . Find the knife that works for you, use it and enjoy it!

If you don't mind knives with Guards, check out the SOG NW Ranger mentioned above, the Buck 102 and 105, the aformentioned Mora's, Kabar MKI, Becker BK16 and BK17 amoung others. I list those because they all go for less then $70 online and work great in the field.

 

[CWL]

Forget about whatever "bushcraft" is, or isn't. Does your knife do the things you need it to, as well as you would like? Then you're set.

I will say though, that for prolonged work, I'd rather have a nice, full handle than a paracord wrap. But like the rest of it, that's just personal pref.

This.

"Bushcraft" is a skillset, that's all. Any real bushcrafter can walk into the wilderness with almost any design of knife & thrive.

Yes, there are knife designs better suited to process wood, carve & poke holes in things, but the real importance is what an individual's knowledge base and capabilities are.

Bushcraft knives, without the skills to use them, are right up there with "Sniper" rifles.

 

[Lou Castle]

I just ordered this knife from Fiddleback Forge. "2013 0104 014 – Bushfinger, OD Canvas over natural canvas, Tapered Tang, Scandi on 1/8” thick steel - $265," in this thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-First-Fiddleback-Friday-of-2013#post11687232.

More to come when it arrives.

Thanks for all the advice.


PS: I've also to a "WTB" for a Brian Goode Companion (as you can see from my sig).

 

[wildmanh]

I just ordered this knife from Fiddleback Forge. "2013 0104 014 – Bushfinger, OD Canvas over natural canvas, Tapered Tang, Scandi on 1/8” thick steel - $265," in this thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-First-Fiddleback-Friday-of-2013#post11687232.

More to come when it arrives.

Thanks for all the advice.


PS: I've also to a "WTB" for a Brian Goode Companion (as you can see from my sig).

Lou, I think that Fiddleback will serve you well. They are nice knives.

 

[lightleak]

I just ordered this knife from Fiddleback Forge. "2013 0104 014 – Bushfinger, OD Canvas over natural canvas, Tapered Tang, Scandi on 1/8” thick steel - $265," in this thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-First-Fiddleback-Friday-of-2013#post11687232.

More to come when it arrives.

Excellent choice, I have been tempted by Andy's knives ever since I saw them. Looking forward to some pictures!

 

[Lou Castle]

I got the Frag pattern grips from Monkey Edge today. I like the look of them. But there are some parts of the grip, around the screw holes that are so sharp that they are as "grabby" as a sharpened edge! Trying to cut something without gloves or without deburring them would inflict several cuts on the palm of one's hand. I'll need to get in there with some sandpaper and smooth those edges down.

When the Fiddleback arrives I'll have to do some comparisons.

As promised here are some photos of the Strider with the Frag grips.

This last photo is a close-up of the sharp edge around one of the screw holes. The really sharp edges are at about one o'clock and four o'clock.

 

[sintro]

You could just buy a cheap mora clipper or topq and decide if you like how that's set up.

 

[Lou Castle]

I've got a Fiddleback Bushfinger on the way. I'll do some comparison tests when it shows up.

 

[Big philly 1]

I find that my Vic rucksack and my sp8 work for everything but chopping a tree down. The rubberized handle on the sp8 is super grippy. When I use it to chop wood, the wood explodes. the saw on the ruck works great, the blade on the ruck is super sharp and great for finer work. When I dont want to bring my sp8 than I bring either my bk7 or my trail hawk.the trail hawk is lke 3 knives in one. Really you coulD get away with just the hawk... But hey we're all knife Nutz so you know we're gonna bring more than one. That's more of a fighting knife you have there...

 

[CWL]

I got the Frag pattern grips from Monkey Edge today. I like the look of them. But there are some parts of the grip, around the screw holes that are so sharp that they are as "grabby" as a sharpened edge! Trying to cut something without gloves or without deburring them would inflict several cuts on the palm of one's hand. I'll need to get in there with some sandpaper and smooth those edges down.

As promised here are some photos of the Strider with the Frag grips.

That does not look like a knife designed or meant for outdoors use. It looks like a painful experience if ever used.

Scales too thin, exposed tang, stepped butt end. All will beat-down your hands with serious & repetitive chore-work outside (or indoors). I can't see how you'd want to hold that for more than a few minutes at a time. No matter how sharp the edge may be, if the grip isn't comfortable, it isn't a good knife.

I suggest that you take a look at Scandinavian design knives, particularly the puukkos, Leukos and Sammi knives. Notice the simple and rounded grip designs. These have been used & refined for about a thousand years for use in the harshest Arctic weather. Not only do they remain comfortable when held for hours at a time, but you can still feel, hold & control them when your hands are wet, cold or frozen.

 

[sodak]

I agree with the others, this knife looks like it will be uncomfortable in extended usage. I do not think you need a "bushcraft" knife, I consider the current "bushcraft" knife design to be a fad, just like Nessmuks and Moras. In 5 years, something else will probably be the popular design. That doesn't mean that these are bad knives, just for whatever reason or the other, they are popular right now.

A mora would be a good start, you're certainly not out much money if you don't like it. My most used is a Vic Farmer. And it does a great job.

 

[Lou Castle]

Perhaps I should have called this thread "Do I WANT a bushcraft knife." Some of the comments remind me of the answer to the question, "What is the best survival knife?" ..."The knife that you have on you when you find yourself in a survival situation."

I was looking for comments as to why knives that are called "bushcraft knives" would be more suited to that job than knives that do not have those attributes. I got many, and they pushed me towards the Fiddleback Forge Bushfinger that's on the way. (Not by that specific brand, but by its attributes).

I knew that the cord wrap on the Strider would not be as comfortable as any kind of smoother surface but the tradeoff was that it gave a better gripping surface. When it was pointed out how dirty it would get, something that I'd not considered, doing camp chores and cleaning animals and such, that closed the door on it. I changed to the Monkey Edge Frag grip looking for something what would be more comfortable. Once they're smoothed down a bit, I'm sure that it will be better than the cord wrap. But I agree, that it will probably not be as comfortable for extended chores, as a smooth surfaced grip.

I considered some of the knives that were mentioned, Mora's Puukko's, Leuko's and Sammi's, but they've never appealed to me. Just a personal choice.

Thanks again for all the help and advice.

 

[CWL]

Seems like you want something more "tactical" than "bushcrafty", nothing wrong with that. But they are typically designed to do different things.

Have you ever heard of Kaleb Reynolds of Muskrat Man Knives? He makes knives that may fit your desires. I do own and use a couple of his knives for the outdoors, they are wicked sharp. Some have called his interpretations as "tactical Bushcraft" (I didn't come up with that).

Here's his interpretation of a puukko, both practical and scary:

Bushcraft knife:

 

[Thalestin]

A bushcraft knife is te knife you use in the woods. The "best" knife for this will totally depend on what you need a knife for as well as your skill set. I personally find many bushcraft knives are quite large and a burden for me to have on my hip while I hike. I don't really do much fire wood prep and any carving type work is fine with a smaller blade. So for myself a small fixed blade is totally acceptable as my bushcraft knife. For someone else it may be a 12 inch chopper. Don't buy the hype and buy and use the knife that works for what you do

 

[Lou Castle]

The Fiddleback Bushfinger arrived today. Very good looking knife. Very high quality fit and finish. Very sharp, in fact sharper than most other new knives I've purchased. My fear that the grip would be too small were not fulfilled, they feel very good EXCEPT I think they're a bit too smooth, making them almost slippery. If my hands were wet with water, blood or the like, I'd have a hard time holding onto the knife. I'll probably take some sandpaper to them to roughen them up a touch. The grip is actually larger than the Strider's either with the cord wrap or the new Monkey Edge grips.

I think that those of you who said that such a knife would do the job better than the strider were right. I thought that before, but now I'm in complete agreement. Thanks for all the help.

 

[schmittie]

The Fiddleback Bushfinger arrived today.....My fear that the grip would be too small were not fulfilled, they feel very good EXCEPT I think they're a bit too smooth, making them almost slippery. If my hands were wet with water, blood or the like, I'd have a hard time holding onto the knife. I'll probably take some sandpaper to them to roughen them up a touch.

Congrats! Post up a few pics if you get a chance.

For what it is worth, I roughened up my Bushfinger handles and removed the polish for the same reasons you mentioned. I like 'em grippy!