Do you sharpen your knives?

Do you sharpen your knives?

  • Yes

  • No


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Corollary: Does anyone else "double-freehand"?

With the smaller 6" DMT plates, and shorter blades <4", I often lay the plate flat on my left palm and draw the edge across with my right. I actually find this way easier to hit the correct edge angle, as it allows adjustment in multiple planes.
Before I got guided-angle sharpeners, I would usually hold the knife in one hand and the stone/plate in the other--easier to see what I'm doing. I still do that with machetes.
 
Corollary: Does anyone else "double-freehand"?

With the smaller 6" DMT plates, and shorter blades <4", I often lay the plate flat on my left palm and draw the edge across with my right. I actually find this way easier to hit the correct edge angle, as it allows adjustment in multiple planes.

The big 8"-12" plates go on the base, of course.
I don't even know how to sharpen any other way. Even when I use 8x3 water stones I double free hand. I think I get the best feedback when I can feel the way the edge is grinding through the stone as well as the knife. It's also sometimes easier to tilt the stone on some blade shapes rather than tilt the knife to hit the tip.
 
I guess this topic has made me feel like a failure sometimes as tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker on different knives and never, ever got the hang of it. I get the appeal but holding the knife at that constant downward angle perhaps never was my strong suit. Thus I don't sharpen my knives. I've stropped most from time to time but if it gets real dull, would just send into the manufacturer's like Microtech or CRK to pop that brand new edge on it. I suppose at some point I'd like to try a Lansky or WorkSharp, wicked edge or Apex and those seem kind of idiot proof. Only thing though is I've been spoil with that convex edge Chris Reeve puts on their knives, a sort of roundedness to the grinds.
 
Wicked edge here, sharpmaker for touch ups
This is my strategy as well. My kitchen and EDC folders get reprofiled to 17dps on the WEPS. Once they stop being sticky-sharp, a few gently pulls on the 20 degree Sharpmaker brings back their edges with a tiny microbevel. Daily use kitchen knives go a good year between real sharpening with this approach while staying sharp enough that ripe tomatoes don't even know they've been cut.
 
I guess this topic has made me feel like a failure sometimes as tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker on different knives and never, ever got the hang of it. I get the appeal but holding the knife at that constant downward angle perhaps never was my strong suit. Thus I don't sharpen my knives. I've stropped most from time to time but if it gets real dull, would just send into the manufacturer's like Microtech or CRK to pop that brand new edge on it. I suppose at some point I'd like to try a Lansky or WorkSharp, wicked edge or Apex and those seem kind of idiot proof. Only thing though is I've been spoil with that convex edge Chris Reeve puts on their knives, a sort of roundedness to the grinds.
Don't feel bad if you can't sharpen a dull knife on the sharpmaker. They're great for touch-ups, but I find even the coarse rods to take off too little material to deal with a knife that needs much more. Any of the fixed-angle systems you mention give great results and can let you pick the angle of your choice; with diamond stones they're quite efficient.
 
I guess this topic has made me feel like a failure sometimes as tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker on different knives and never, ever got the hang of it. I get the appeal but holding the knife at that constant downward angle perhaps never was my strong suit. Thus I don't sharpen my knives. I've stropped most from time to time but if it gets real dull, would just send into the manufacturer's like Microtech or CRK to pop that brand new edge on it. I suppose at some point I'd like to try a Lansky or WorkSharp, wicked edge or Apex and those seem kind of idiot proof. Only thing though is I've been spoil with that convex edge Chris Reeve puts on their knives, a sort of roundedness to the grinds.

There is a lot to learn! Time and money to spend!
 
I don't even know how to sharpen any other way. Even when I use 8x3 water stones I double free hand. I think I get the best feedback when I can feel the way the edge is grinding through the stone as well as the knife. It's also sometimes easier to tilt the stone on some blade shapes rather than tilt the knife to hit the tip.

Yes, that's exactly what I mean. Getting the belly to tip portion right.
 
Indeed I do

Have a landsky T clamp kit but hardly use the T clamp these days. (Sharpen free hand)

in "the field" I have a worksharp key chain sharpener with a diamond and ceramic hone as well as torx bits to service my knife
 
I guess this topic has made me feel like a failure sometimes as tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker on different knives and never, ever got the hang of it. I get the appeal but holding the knife at that constant downward angle perhaps never was my strong suit. Thus I don't sharpen my knives. I've stropped most from time to time but if it gets real dull, would just send into the manufacturer's like Microtech or CRK to pop that brand new edge on it. I suppose at some point I'd like to try a Lansky or WorkSharp, wicked edge or Apex and those seem kind of idiot proof. Only thing though is I've been spoil with that convex edge Chris Reeve puts on their knives, a sort of roundedness to the grinds.
As I mentioned in my original post, you really don't need to "sharpen" your knife so much as hone it using a leather belt. 99% of the time thats really all it takes to keep an edge alive from my experience. If you do need to put it through something tougher a ceramic usually does it unless you damaged the edge enough to need to actually sharpen it.

It's a little pricy but worksharp came out with the pro model and I'll be getting that myself this year to replace my standard model.

As for convex grinds, I don't have much experience in those honestly and I personally avoid knives that have them.
 
I’ve had my Laconico EZC for 3 to 4 years now. The only touch ups I’ve done were on a Sharpmaker.
 
Yes, that's exactly what I mean. Getting the belly to tip portion right.
I sharpen from ricasso to the belly laser straight. Then sharpen tip to belly separately. Pushing into the stone.IMG_5046.jpeg
I do this for two reasons

First it saves the belly from being worn away.

Second it keeps the edge perpendicular to the stone. So the microscopic teeth are aligned correctly with the edge.
 
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I touch mine up freehand on a Spyderco ultra fine ceramic. If in the rare case it gets too dull I'll get the guided system set up with medium stones. I've never let a knife get duller than what medium stones can handle.
 
Corollary: Does anyone else "double-freehand"?

With the smaller 6" DMT plates, and shorter blades <4", I often lay the plate flat on my left palm and draw the edge across with my right.

Almost exclusively for regular touch-ups, but then I’m mostly using found rocks so that might be why…

 
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